Revision as of 17:07, 23 February 2020 by Ron.Thomas
Before You Start
All tools in the Glass Bay require certification before use!
We provide regular certification classes on Monday nights and they also can be scheduled on demand. Contact email@example.com to request a class. Regularly scheduled classes are coordinated on our Meet up at https://www.meetup.com/LongmontHackerSpace/
Operating the Bench Burner
- Ensure that the propane valve on the bench burner/torch (red knob) is closed.
- Ensure that the oxygen valve on the bench burner/torch (silver knob) is closed.
- Ensure that the oxygen tank regulator valve is loose.
- Open O2 main tank valve. Note Right dials Outer ring for the logs. The main valve is the large knob at the very top of the large oxygen tank. The first thing at the top of the tank.
- pressurize the O2 regulator. On the regulator just next to the main oxygen tank valve, turn the small stick to the right and bring the pressure up to 40psi (Right Dial, Inner ring, 30 is marked).
- Open the oxygen line to the torch. Open the small nob just to the left of the regulator. There are two, find the one to your torch.
- Connect the natural gas. Find the red hose from your torch, the other end will be hanging on the O2 tank. Plug it into the Y adapter on the wall.
- Open the natural gas line. Turn the yellow nob on the pipe so that it is inline with the pipe.
- Light your torch. Using a hand held lighter, hold a flame in front of the torch nozzle. Slowly turn the bench burner's propane valve (red knob), this will start the flow of natural gas from the end of the torch which the lighter will ignite. Slowly turn on the bench burner's oxygen valve and adjust the flame until the cones (smaller, blue flames within the base of the larger flame) are sharp and defined.
- Turn off the main oxygen tank valve. Note the tank level (Left dial, Outer ring) for the logs
- Turn off the natural gas line
- Bleed the oxygen from the torch hose by opening the silver knob on the torch's base. Wait a few seconds for the gas the escape. Then close the torch's silver oxygen valve (take care to not over tighten!)
- Bleed the natural gas from the torch hose by opening the red knob on the torch's base. Wait a few seconds for the gas the escape, you may ignite to cut down on fumes. Close the torch's red natural gas valve (take care to not over tighten!)
- Turn the oxygen regulator valve counter clockwise until it is loose. Almost falling out.
- Tighten/close the oxygen line to the torch. Turn the small gold knob just to the left of the oxygen regulator to the right and close the oxygen line.
- Remove the natural gas line from the Y adapter and hang by the oxygen tank.
Please pay for torch time as soon as possible so that we can keep the gas stocked for everyone. Please mark your payment with a note indicating that it is for the Glass Bay.
Oxygen costs are $5 an hour.
- Start the Kiln at setting 2. Should be at around 1000 - 1400 Degrees Celsius For 1 Hour.
- Turn Off and let cool to room temperature. (Roughly 1.5 - 2 hours)
- Glass Craft, 411 Violet Street Golden, CO www.glasscraftinc.com
- D&L Art Glass Supply, 1440 W. 52nd Ave. Denver, CO www.dlartglass.com
- Bench Burner - A torch that is fixed to the bench which provides a stationary flame.
- Didymium Safety Glasses - Glasses that provide a filter which selectively blocks the yellowish light at 589 nm emitted by the hot sodium in the glass, without having a detrimental effect on general vision, unlike dark welder's glasses. The strong infrared light emitted by the super-heated forge gases and insulation lining the forge walls is also blocked thereby saving the lampworker's eyes from serious cumulative damage.
- Hand Torch - The hand torch allows for more maneuverability of the flame, commonly used on glassworking lathes where there is reduced maneuverability of the piece
- Kiln - the kiln is used to garage and anneal the glass, protecting the piece from thermal shock and relieving thermal stress.
- Marver - flat surfaces used to roll glass upon in order to shape, smooth or consolidate applied decoration, typically made of graphite or steel.
- Paddle - A graphite or metal marver attached to a handle
- Reamer - A piece of graphite or brass on a handle used to enlarge holes.
- Blowhose/Swivel Assembly - A hose, usually latex, is connected to the blowpipe via a hollow swivel, allowing the lampworker to blow into hollow glass forms while rotating them.
- Tungsten Pick - The extreme temperature resistance of tungsten makes it ideal for raking(dragging glass around on the surface), or to bore a hole through the glass.
- Shears - Steel shears are used to cut the hot glass.
- Hot Fingers - Metal tool found in various configurations which allows the hot glass to be securely held and rotated, commonly used for finishing pieces after they have been removed from the blowpipe or pontil.
- Pontil (Punty) - A small diameter glass rod used to hold a piece while working on it. The end of the punty is heated, melted, and then secured to the work piece. Later, the cold joint connecting the work piece and the punty can be broken with a light tap on a solid surface. It often leaves an irregular or ring-shaped scar on the base when removed called the "pontil mark".
- Flame Cutting - A technique for separating a section of glass into two pieces. The area to be separated is held in the flame until until it is a bright honey color. The sections are then pulled apart while remaining in the flame, resulting in a very thin strand of glass between the two that is quickly cut and balled up by the flame.