https://wiki.tinkermill.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Cedarm&feedformat=atomTinkerMill Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T09:47:57ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.33.4https://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=622Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-16T21:49:59Z<p>Cedarm: /* Shrink shapes for recess */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png|600px|thumb|center|Shape with grey fill and red stroke]]<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for inlay ===<br />
# Select your object by clicking on it. Go to the Object menu, Fill and Stroke. In the tool shelf select Fill, choose ''Flat color'' and change the color to black. In Stroke paint choose ''Flat color'' and change the color to black. In Stroke style set the stroke width to ''0.75 mm''. <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png|100px]]<br />
# Go to the File menu, Export PNG Image. (This does not open a standard file dialog, but rather the tool shelf.) Choose ''Page'' in Export area. This will make it easier to align when we import the raster image. Set the dpi under Image size to 5080 dpi. Choose a filename and make sure you know which directory it's in. Click Export and close the tool when done.<br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# To help discern the original object from the raster, remove the fill color by choosing ''No paint'' and set the stroke width to something small like ''0.05 mm''.<br />
# Go the the File menu, Import and find the file you exported. The default options are ok. Click Ok.<br />
# With the raster image selected, go to the Object menu, Align and Distribute. Choose Relative to "Page". Align the raster image to the center, both horizontally and vertically.<br />
# With the raster image still selected, go to the Path menu, Trace Bitmap. Use the Single scan, Brightness cutoff method. Deselect smooth (?). Click Ok. A new vector object will be generated and will be selected. <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# Again, to help discern object from one another, on new object remove the fill color by choosing ''No paint'', change the stroke color to blue, and set the stroke width to something small like ''0.05 mm''.<br />
# We're done with the raster image. Select it and delete it.<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for recess ===<br />
The procedure for the recess is nearly the same as for the inlay, except the initial stroke width is different and the color is set to white (to match the background).<br />
# Select the original object (in black), set fill to black and stroke to '''white''', and stroke width to ''0.25 mm''. <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png|100px]]<br />
# Export to png (raster). Choose a different filename! <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# On the original object remove fill and set stroke width to something small.<br />
# Import raster image.<br />
# Align the image to page.<br />
# Trace Bitmap <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# On new object, remove the fill and set the stroke color and width to something small.<br />
# Remove the raster image.<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
== Result ready to cut ==<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png|thumb|left|Result with blue inlay and green recess paths]]<br />
<br clear=all></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=621Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-16T21:42:29Z<p>Cedarm: /* Enlarge shapes for inlay */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png|600px|thumb|center|Shape with grey fill and red stroke]]<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for inlay ===<br />
# Select your object by clicking on it. Go to the Object menu, Fill and Stroke. In the tool shelf select Fill, choose ''Flat color'' and change the color to black. In Stroke paint choose ''Flat color'' and change the color to black. In Stroke style set the stroke width to ''0.75 mm''. <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png|100px]]<br />
# Go to the File menu, Export PNG Image. (This does not open a standard file dialog, but rather the tool shelf.) Choose ''Page'' in Export area. This will make it easier to align when we import the raster image. Set the dpi under Image size to 5080 dpi. Choose a filename and make sure you know which directory it's in. Click Export and close the tool when done.<br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# To help discern the original object from the raster, remove the fill color by choosing ''No paint'' and set the stroke width to something small like ''0.05 mm''.<br />
# Go the the File menu, Import and find the file you exported. The default options are ok. Click Ok.<br />
# With the raster image selected, go to the Object menu, Align and Distribute. Choose Relative to "Page". Align the raster image to the center, both horizontally and vertically.<br />
# With the raster image still selected, go to the Path menu, Trace Bitmap. Use the Single scan, Brightness cutoff method. Deselect smooth (?). Click Ok. A new vector object will be generated and will be selected. <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# Again, to help discern object from one another, on new object remove the fill color by choosing ''No paint'', change the stroke color to blue, and set the stroke width to something small like ''0.05 mm''.<br />
# We're done with the raster image. Select it and delete it.<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for recess ===<br />
# set fill to solid black and stroke to '''solid white''', stroke width to ''0.25 mm'' <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
# remove raster image<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
== Result ready to cut ==<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png|thumb|left|Result with blue inlay and green recess paths]]<br />
<br clear=all></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=615Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-15T23:03:28Z<p>Cedarm: /* Enlarge shapes for inlay */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png|600px|thumb|center|Shape with grey fill and red stroke]]<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for inlay ===<br />
# Select your object by clicking on it. Go to the Object menu, Fill and Stroke. In the tool shelf select Fill, choose ''Flat color'' and change the color to black. In Stroke paint choose ''Flat color'' and change the color to black. In Stroke style set the stroke width to ''0.75 mm''. <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png|100px]]<br />
# Go to the File menu, Export PNG Image. (This does not open a standard file dialog, but rather the tool shelf.) Choose ''Page'' in Export area. This will make it easier to align when we import the raster image. Set the dpi under Image size to 5080 dpi. Choose a filename and make sure you know which directory it's in. Click Export and close the tool when done.<br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# To help discern the original object from the raster, remove the fill color by choosing ''No paint'' and set the stroke width to something small like ''0.05 mm''.<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
# remove raster image<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for recess ===<br />
# set fill to solid black and stroke to '''solid white''', stroke width to ''0.25 mm'' <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
# remove raster image<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
== Result ready to cut ==<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png|thumb|left|Result with blue inlay and green recess paths]]<br />
<br clear=all></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=612Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-12T05:38:45Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png|600px|thumb|center|Shape with grey fill and red stroke]]<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for inlay ===<br />
# set fill and stroke to '''solid black''', stroke width to ''0.75 mm'' <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
# remove raster image<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for recess ===<br />
# set fill to solid black and stroke to '''solid white''', stroke width to ''0.25 mm'' <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
# remove raster image<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|300px|left]]<br />
<br clear=all><br />
<br />
== Result ready to cut ==<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png|thumb|left|Result with blue inlay and green recess paths]]<br />
<br clear=all></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=611Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-12T05:29:27Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png|600px|thumb|center|Shape with grey fill and red stroke]]<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for inlay ===<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|right]]<br />
# set fill and stroke to solid black, stroke width to 0.75 mm <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove raster image<br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for recess ===<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|right]]<br />
# set fill to solid black and stroke to solid white, stroke width to 0.25 mm <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove raster image<br />
<br />
== Result ready to cut ==<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png|thumb|left|Result with blue inlay and green recess paths]]</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=610Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-12T05:25:57Z<p>Cedarm: Add images to steps</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png|600px|thumb|center|Shape with grey fill and red stroke]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png|thumb|center|Result with blue inlay and green recess paths]]<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for inlay ===<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|right]]<br />
# set fill and stroke to solid black, stroke width to 0.75 mm <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove raster image<br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for recess ===<br />
[[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|right]]<br />
# set fill to solid black and stroke to solid white, stroke width to 0.25 mm <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png|100px]]<br />
# export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove fill and set stroke width to something small<br />
# import raster image<br />
# align to page<br />
# Trace Bitmap, not smooth? <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png|100px]]<br />
# on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small <br> [[File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png|100px]]<br />
# remove raster image</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png&diff=609File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-undersized.png2017-01-12T05:18:46Z<p>Cedarm: Green outline is the result after reducing size of black object to account for cutting kerf.</p>
<hr />
<div>Green outline is the result after reducing size of black object to account for cutting kerf.</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png&diff=608File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result.png2017-01-12T05:14:41Z<p>Cedarm: Blue and green outlines are the result after increasing and reducing size of black object to account for cutting kerf.</p>
<hr />
<div>Blue and green outlines are the result after increasing and reducing size of black object to account for cutting kerf.</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png&diff=607File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-result-oversized.png2017-01-12T05:08:00Z<p>Cedarm: Blue outline is result after increasing size of black object to account for cutting kerf.</p>
<hr />
<div>Blue outline is result after increasing size of black object to account for cutting kerf.</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png&diff=606File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-trace-bitmap.png2017-01-12T04:54:50Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png&diff=605File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-export-oversized.png2017-01-12T04:52:54Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png&diff=604File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-0.25.png2017-01-12T04:31:56Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial%2B0.75.png&diff=603File:Gear-inlay-tutorial+0.75.png2017-01-12T04:31:19Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png&diff=602File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png2017-01-12T04:14:30Z<p>Cedarm: Cedarm uploaded a new version of File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png&diff=601File:Gear-inlay-tutorial-overview.png2017-01-12T04:12:06Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=600Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-12T04:06:07Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Create inside and outside shapes ==<br />
We'll use the shapes' own stroke width to create cutting paths with proper inside and/or outside dimensions. The inlay cuts will be oversized by the kerf measured above, and the recess will be undersized. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements in your drawing.<br />
<br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice.<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for cutting inlay ===<br />
- set fill and stroke to solid black, stroke width to 0.75 mm<br />
- export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename<br />
- import raster image<br />
- align to page<br />
- Trace Bitmap, not smooth?<br />
- on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
- remove raster image<br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for engraving recess ===<br />
- set fill to solid black and stroke to solid white, stroke width to 0.25 mm<br />
- export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename<br />
- import raster image<br />
- align to page<br />
- Trace Bitmap, not smooth?<br />
- on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
- remove raster image</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=599Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-11T23:02:10Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Adjust drawing ==<br />
We'll use Inkscape to adjust the drawing for proper inside and/or outside dimensions. <br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements from above.<br />
<br />
<br />
The inlay cuts will be oversized by 0.75 mm.<br />
The engraving will be undersized by 0.25 mm.<br />
<br />
''work in progress''<br />
<br />
=== Enlarge shapes for cutting inlay ===<br />
- set fill and stroke to solid black, stroke width to 0.75 mm<br />
- export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename<br />
- import raster image<br />
- align to page<br />
- Trace Bitmap, not smooth?<br />
- on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
- remove raster image<br />
<br />
=== Shrink shapes for engraving recess ===<br />
- set fill to solid black and stroke to solid white, stroke width to 0.25 mm<br />
- export to png (raster), whole page, 5080 dpi, good filename<br />
- import raster image<br />
- align to page<br />
- Trace Bitmap, not smooth?<br />
- on new object: remove fill, set stroke color and width to something small<br />
- remove raster image</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=594Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-11T06:03:41Z<p>Cedarm: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Drawing preparation ==<br />
The drawing must consist of solid vector shapes. Set the fill and remove the stroke, then size to actual dimensions. (Measurements in Inkscape include the line/stroke thickness.) You cannot simply scale the drawing later as doing so would scale the kerf adjustments too. Also, you may want to set the drawing to a known size, such as fit to objects plus 5 mm margin on all sides.<br />
<br />
== Adjust drawing ==<br />
We'll use Inkscape to adjust the drawing for proper inside and/or outside dimensions. <br />
In this method we will export the drawing as a raster, import the raster, then use the Trace Bitmap feature to convert it back to a vector shape. It's not perfect, but this method seems to work well in practice. In this example we will exaggerate the adjustments for the sake of illustration (+0.75 mm and -0.25 mm). Use your own measurements from above.<br />
<br />
<br />
The inlay cuts will be oversized by 0.75 mm.<br />
The engraving will be undersized by 0.25 mm.<br />
<br />
''work in progress''</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=588Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-11T04:54:43Z<p>Cedarm: Added partial guide; work in progress</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]<br />
<br />
This guide explains a method of adjusting a drawing to account for the kerf (the width of the cut). <br />
<br />
== Calibrate ==<br />
Each material and combination of speed and laser power will produce cuts of differing widths. You MUST do some test cuts and engraves in samples of your actual materials. Choose a convenient dimension such as 5 mm or 10 mm. Record your speed and laser power settings for reuse later. <br />
<br />
=== Measure the kerf for inlay cuts ===<br />
Cut a small test sample of your actual inlay material. Record your settings! Ensure that each edge you will measure has been cut by the laser (i.e. don't measure from a stock cut side to a laser cut side). Carefully measure the result with calipers and subtract the measurement. For example 10 mm test measuring 9.92 mm has a kerf of 0.080 mm (80µm).<br />
<br />
=== Determine settings for proper depth ===<br />
Engrave a small test recess into a scrap of your actual material. Record your settings! Measure the depth, adjust settings and repeat until the depth measures slightly less than the thickness of your inlay material. Be sure to record your final settings!<br />
<br />
== Adjust drawing ==<br />
We'll use Inkscape to adjust the drawing for proper inside and/or outside dimensions. This example uses exaggerated dimensions so the result can be easily seen. Use your own measurements from above.<br />
<br />
The inlay cuts will be oversized by 0.75 mm. The engraving will be undersized by 0.25 mm.<br />
<br />
''work in progress''</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cut_Inlay&diff=587Laser Cut Inlay2017-01-11T03:50:46Z<p>Cedarm: Created page with "Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter"</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Gear-inlay.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Sample of wood inlay using laser cutter]]</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Gear-inlay.jpg&diff=586File:Gear-inlay.jpg2017-01-11T03:45:43Z<p>Cedarm: Example of wood inlay using laser cutter.</p>
<hr />
<div>Example of wood inlay using laser cutter.</div>Cedarmhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter&diff=585Laser Cutter2017-01-11T03:28:16Z<p>Cedarm: /* Design Resources */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Overview==<br />
====== Specifications ======<br />
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W<br /><br />
'''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm)<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Parts of the Laser =====<br />
'''X/Y carriage''' - Moves the laser head along the X and Y planes (left to right, toward and away.)<br /><br />
'''Honeycomb table''' - disperses any reflected laser energy as well as positioning the engraving material within the proper distance from the laser head.<br /><br />
'''Z axis Bed of Laser''' - Z axis Bed of Laser - The bed of the laser moves up and down to focus the laser. It can be lowered 10 inches under the laser focal lens.<br /><br />
'''Laser Tube Water Jacket Chiller''' - A pump moves chilled, distilled water through a glass tube around the laser, cooling it.<br /><br />
'''Compressed Air in''' - Air Assist is compressed air that blows onto the cutting point of the laser. It blows away smoke that would otherwise deposit on the mirrors<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==Safety==<br />
=== Machine Safety ===<br />
*'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''<br />
<br />
*'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those settings, it needs maintenance. Please let someone know!'''<br />
<br />
*'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''<br />
<br />
*Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.<br />
<br />
The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.<br />
<br />
The machine is regularly checked and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified TinkerMill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.<br />
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
=== Fire Safety ===<br />
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. <br /><br />
The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly.<br /><br />
Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
== Material Selection ==<br />
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.<br />
<br />
You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:<br />
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf<br />
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/<br />
<br />
'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''<br />
<br />
===Approved Materials===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Material<br />
!Cut <br /> Recommended Speed<br />
!Cut <br /> Recommended Power<br />
!Cut <br /> Passes<br />
!Engrave <br /> Recommended Speed <br />
!Engrave <br /> Recommended Power<br />
|-<br />
|Acrylic Plastic <br />
|-<br />
|Plexiglass (PMMA)<br />
|-<br />
|Delrin Plastic<br />
|-<br />
|Kapton High Temperature Tape<br />
|-<br />
|PETG Plastic<br />
|- <br />
|Styrene Plastic<br />
|-<br />
|Styrene Foam (melts very quickly)<br />
|-<br />
|Depron Foam<br />
|-<br />
|EPM Foam (Ethylene propylene rubber)<br />
|-<br />
|Cloths (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton)<br />
|-<br />
|Magnetic sheets<br />
|-<br />
|Paper, Cardboard, Cardstock<br />
|-<br />
|Rubbers (those that are free of chlorine)<br />
|-<br />
|Woods (balsa, birch, poplar, red oak, cherry, holly, etc.)<br />
|-<br />
|Cork<br />
|-<br />
|Coroplast<br />
|-<br />
|Carbon Fiber Mats/Weave '''that has not had the epoxy applied!'''<br />
|-<br />
|Baltic Birch Plywood<br />
|-<br />
|Back of Mirrors '''(engrave only)''' ||0 ||0<br />
|-<br />
|Anodized Aluminum '''(engrave only)''' ||0 ||0<br />
|-<br />
|Powder Coated Metal '''(engrave only)''' ||0 ||0<br />
|-<br />
|Glass '''(engrave only)''' ||0 ||0<br />
|-<br />
|Ceramic Tile '''(engrave only)''' ||0 ||0<br />
|-<br />
|Stone, Marble, Granite '''(engrave only)''' ||0 ||0<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE===<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
!Material<br />
!Hazard<br />
|-<br />
|Polycarbonate ||fire hazard<br />
|-<br />
|Lexan ||fire hazard<br />
|-<br />
|PVC ||chlorine<br />
|-<br />
|Cintra ||chlorine<br />
|-<br />
|Vinyl ||chlorine<br />
|-<br />
|ABS Plastic ||fire Hazard, difficult to clean up<br />
|-<br />
|Pleather / Faux Leather ||chlorine<br />
|-<br />
|Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites ||noxious fumes from epoxy<br />
|-<br />
|Printed Circuit Boards ||noxious fumes<br />
|-<br />
|Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber ||noxious fumes<br />
|-<br />
|HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic ||fire hazard<br />
|-<br />
|Any Material Containing Chlorine || Chlorine<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Usage==<br />
=== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving ===<br />
* The laser cutter software uses DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format <br />
* DXF files should be saved in R14 version<br />
* The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm<br />
* Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF<br />
* DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths<br />
* Make note of your documents size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the LaserCut software<br />
* Closed paths that are put on an Engrave layer in the RabbitLaser software will appear as solid areas of engraving.<br />
<br />
==== With Adobe Illustrator ====<br />
* Change the document's units to metric (Edit > Preferences > Units > General)<br />
* All paths should have zero fill. Filled shapes will produce a "Hatch" error in the RabbitLaser software.<br />
<br />
==== With Inkscape ====<br />
Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:<br />
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320<br />
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.<br />
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.<br />
<br />
=== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving ===<br />
The PhotoGrav software can be used to convert raster images into a format compatable with the RabbitLaser software. This is installed on the computer and can be found locked to the task bar (the sun icon.)<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
=== Operating the Laser ===<br />
# Turn the laser on with the key. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.<br />
# Scan your badge in the [[TinkerAccess]] kiosk on the top-right of the laser. It will activate the laser tube for a certain amount of time. For large projects, make sure to re-scan your badge before time runs out.<br />
# Press the “XY-0” button to prevent the laser head from leaving the workable space.<br />
# Start the LaserCut software.<br />
# Click “File>Import” to navigate to and select your file.<br />
# Select paths and assign colors to those that will have separate power and speed settings.<br />
# Set the power and speed settings for each layer (color). Please reference the advice power and speed settings sheet that is near the computer.<br />
# Layers will be cut/engraved in order from top to bottom. They can be arranged by pressing the "Up" and "Down" buttons underneath the Layers pallet<br />
# Check the size of your artwork by selecting everything and pressing Ctrl+G. This will show you the selections size (in millimeters) and allows for its adjustment.<br />
# Although not required, it is wise to save the file at this point to the computer or your thumbdrive. This will save the file in a .MOL format that will retain your layers as well as speed and power settings.<br />
# Ensure that the origin, or starting point, of your artwork is set to the upper left corner by clicking on "Laser" > "Set laser origin" and selecting "LEFT-TOP."<br />
## [[File:laser_origin_1.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]<br />
## [[File:laser_origin_2.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]<br />
# The screen on the laser cutter should now display the name of your file<br />
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.<br />
# Use the laser cutter’s up/down, left/right keys to move the head of the laser over your material. If the laser head doesn’t move when you press the buttons try hitting the “ESC” and try again. <br />
# Press the “TEST” button. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file. It is important that you know your origin point before testing or the head of the laser may ignore its limit switches and slam into the side of the machine.<br />
# Press the “Z-0” button to automatically focus the laser. The bed will rise until a limit switch immediately left of the laser head is activated, it will then move back down to the proper focal distance. <br />
# You are ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser.<br />
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!<br />
# Donate money for the laser cutter based on the suggested rate and the elapsed time it took to run, according to the time displayed on the laser cutter.<br />
<br />
== Cleaning and Maintenance ==<br />
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions.<br /><br />
<br />
Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to [mailto:info@tinkermill.org info@tinkermill.org].<br />
<br />
==== Lens Damage Examples ====<br />
[[File:lens_damage_examples.png|Lens Damage Examples]]<br />
<br />
==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====<br />
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.<br />
[[File:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png]]<br />
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==Resources==<br />
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=== Design Resources ===<br />
*Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials<br />http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html<br />
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*Example Projects<br /><br />
**http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm<br /><br />
**http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html<br />
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*Wood Inlay<br /><br />
**[[Laser_Cut_Inlay|Tutorial for creating inlay drawings using Inkscape]]<br />
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*Living (or Lattice) Hinges<br /><br />
**http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/<br />
**http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm<br />
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*Software<br />
**[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software]<br /><br />
**[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images]<br /><br />
**[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator]<br /><br />
**[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator]<br /><br />
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=== Material Resources ===<br />
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*Rubber Stamp Materials - [http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe]<br />
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*[[Plastic Vendors]]<br />
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*'''Birch Plywood'''<br /><br />
**Stan's Hardwood<br /> 617 1st Ave. Longmont, Colorado 80501<br />(303) 772-2418<br />Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-3, Closed: Sun & Mon<br />http://www.longmonthardwood.com/<br />
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[[Category:Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]<br />
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