TinkerMill Wiki - User contributions [en]

3D Printer

2022-01-04T18:50:35Z

Ninadel:

3D Printer

2021-11-14T00:48:04Z

Ninadel: /* SLA Printing */

3D Printer

2021-10-24T01:28:11Z

Ninadel: /* Resin settings */

3D Printer

2021-10-24T00:17:44Z

Ninadel:

FFCP

2021-10-24T00:16:44Z

Ninadel:

Here are some usage guidelines for the Flash Forge Creator Pro.

= Extruder Care =

The printer has a Diabase dual extruder. The quick setup guide can be found at this following link [https://flexionextruder.com/support/printing-tips/ flexionextruder.com]. These instructions are also taped to the wall behind the printers. The quick guide cited in the link has been copied here:

# Before initially loading filament, loosen the set screw that contacts the cam surface of the dial. Set the dial to position 1. Tighten the set screw until the drive roller makes contact with the idler roller. Do not heavily torque the set screw, just tighten it using the shank of the allen wrench.
# Rotate the dial to position 4. (Confirm that the dial rotates between 1 and 4 without binding. If it binds, loosen the set screw a small amount.) At this point, you’re ready to load a filament and print. Use position 1 for very soft materials (Like Jellyfish or Ninjaflex), position 2 for moderately soft materials (like SemiFlex), position 3 for moderately hard materials (like ABS), and position 4 for very hard materials (like filled PLA). Set the correct dial location before loading filament.
# Load filament. With the dial at the correct setting and the extruder at the correct temperature, run your printer’s normal filament load cycle while you gently push the filament into the entrance liner.
# Prepare to print. Do your normal print setup routine (build platform prep, acetone clean, application of bonding agent, preheat, etc). Everyone has their own depending on their printer and the seriousness of their OCD. (See our printing tips section for some useful tricks and methods).

As an important note, do not swap between plastics with significant temperature differences (e.g. ABS v.s. PLA) without cleaning the extruder first. Swapping between plastics can lead to an accumulation of material in the extruder, preventing extrusion.

= Heated Bed Care =

Over time, the heated bed may need to be adjusted or cleaned. Please do not touch the platform directly, as oils from your hands can make adhesion difficult.

== Bed Leveling The Quick Way ==

Once the filament is set up and the printer is ready to print, adjust the wingnuts on the bottom until you get good adhesion. The plastic should be mostly flattened and completely stuck to the surface. It might take a few iterations to get there, especially if you have a large part. There are some calibration objects on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 www.thingiverse.com] that can help level a larger area of the platform without using up a lot of plastic. In most cases only some fine-tuning as you print the first layer of your part will be sufficient.

== Bed Leveling The Hard Way ==

There is a bed leveling utility built into the FFCP that you can navigate to using the five-button interface on the printer. Use the down button to reach the second page and select '''Utilities'''->'''Level Build Plate'''. It will send the Z-axis to its home position, then move the extruder to the center of the platform. The motors to the X-axis ad Y-axis are turned off and you can then move the head around.

Using a ~0.1mm thick shim (a standard piece of paper is close), adjust the trio of wingnuts under the bed until the extruder(s) just barely catch on the paper. Do this on all four corners and the middle a few times and the bed will be level.

This is the suggested bed leveling method in the flashforge documentation, as well as the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Bed_Leveling reprapwiki], but this process can take a lot of time to get right, so it's only really suggested if the build plate is far off.

FFCP

2021-10-24T00:16:11Z

Ninadel: Created page with "= Extruder Care = The printer has a Diabase dual extruder. The quick setup guide can be found at this following link [https://flexionextruder.com/support/printing-tips/ flexi..."

= Extruder Care =

The printer has a Diabase dual extruder. The quick setup guide can be found at this following link [https://flexionextruder.com/support/printing-tips/ flexionextruder.com]. These instructions are also taped to the wall behind the printers. The quick guide cited in the link has been copied here:

# Before initially loading filament, loosen the set screw that contacts the cam surface of the dial. Set the dial to position 1. Tighten the set screw until the drive roller makes contact with the idler roller. Do not heavily torque the set screw, just tighten it using the shank of the allen wrench.
# Rotate the dial to position 4. (Confirm that the dial rotates between 1 and 4 without binding. If it binds, loosen the set screw a small amount.) At this point, you’re ready to load a filament and print. Use position 1 for very soft materials (Like Jellyfish or Ninjaflex), position 2 for moderately soft materials (like SemiFlex), position 3 for moderately hard materials (like ABS), and position 4 for very hard materials (like filled PLA). Set the correct dial location before loading filament.
# Load filament. With the dial at the correct setting and the extruder at the correct temperature, run your printer’s normal filament load cycle while you gently push the filament into the entrance liner.
# Prepare to print. Do your normal print setup routine (build platform prep, acetone clean, application of bonding agent, preheat, etc). Everyone has their own depending on their printer and the seriousness of their OCD. (See our printing tips section for some useful tricks and methods).

As an important note, do not swap between plastics with significant temperature differences (e.g. ABS v.s. PLA) without cleaning the extruder first. Swapping between plastics can lead to an accumulation of material in the extruder, preventing extrusion.

= Heated Bed Care =

Over time, the heated bed may need to be adjusted or cleaned. Please do not touch the platform directly, as oils from your hands can make adhesion difficult.

== Bed Leveling The Quick Way ==

Once the filament is set up and the printer is ready to print, adjust the wingnuts on the bottom until you get good adhesion. The plastic should be mostly flattened and completely stuck to the surface. It might take a few iterations to get there, especially if you have a large part. There are some calibration objects on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 www.thingiverse.com] that can help level a larger area of the platform without using up a lot of plastic. In most cases only some fine-tuning as you print the first layer of your part will be sufficient.

== Bed Leveling The Hard Way ==

There is a bed leveling utility built into the FFCP that you can navigate to using the five-button interface on the printer. Use the down button to reach the second page and select '''Utilities'''->'''Level Build Plate'''. It will send the Z-axis to its home position, then move the extruder to the center of the platform. The motors to the X-axis ad Y-axis are turned off and you can then move the head around.

Using a ~0.1mm thick shim (a standard piece of paper is close), adjust the trio of wingnuts under the bed until the extruder(s) just barely catch on the paper. Do this on all four corners and the middle a few times and the bed will be level.

This is the suggested bed leveling method in the flashforge documentation, as well as the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Bed_Leveling reprapwiki], but this process can take a lot of time to get right, so it's only really suggested if the build plate is far off.

3D Printer

2021-10-24T00:15:26Z

Ninadel:

3D Printer

2021-10-24T00:14:42Z

Ninadel:

TinkerMill has a variety of 3D printers available for your use. Some require additional training for use (SLA printers), but general-purpose plastic printers can be used by anyone.

== FDM Printing ==

=== Quick Start Guide ===

If you want to get printing right away, you can use one of the Dell laptops in the printing area. The software that's preferred for slicing and printer control is Simplify3D.

Simply import your desired STL(s), select a profile for printing (the default is JV_FFCP2). After the part is sliced, you can either print directly to either of the CreaterPro printers, or export the gcode to an SD card. There are several on the bench for your use, please do not take the SD cards home.

It is ideal if you can stay around to watch a print, however, unlike most machines in TinkerMill, the 3D printers may be ran unsupervised as prints can take many hours to complete. In these circumstances, please leave a note on the machine with your name and telephone number and make every effort to retrieve the parts when the print is complete. Unattended parts will be discarded.

=== Costs ===

Plastics cost about $0.10 per gram. There are two small AWS scales for weighing completed prints and print attempts. There is a jar where users are expected to donate money for all attempted prints.

=== Safety ===

Please allow parts to cool for about 15 minutes once a print is complete. It will be easier to remove once cooled.

=== FlashForge Creator Pro (FFCP) ===

There are two of these printers available for use. These are dual-extruder machines and there are laptops available for slicing/printing.

The manual for this printer can be found at the following link: [http://www.flashforge-usa.com/assets/manual/flashforge_creator_pro_user_guide_v01.20.2015.3.0.pdf?cd6e8a www.flashforge-usa.com]

Additional guidance on using the [[FFCP]].

==== Extruder Care ====

The printer has a Diabase dual extruder. The quick setup guide can be found at this following link [https://flexionextruder.com/support/printing-tips/ flexionextruder.com]. These instructions are also taped to the wall behind the printers. The quick guide cited in the link has been copied here:

# Before initially loading filament, loosen the set screw that contacts the cam surface of the dial. Set the dial to position 1. Tighten the set screw until the drive roller makes contact with the idler roller. Do not heavily torque the set screw, just tighten it using the shank of the allen wrench.
# Rotate the dial to position 4. (Confirm that the dial rotates between 1 and 4 without binding. If it binds, loosen the set screw a small amount.) At this point, you’re ready to load a filament and print. Use position 1 for very soft materials (Like Jellyfish or Ninjaflex), position 2 for moderately soft materials (like SemiFlex), position 3 for moderately hard materials (like ABS), and position 4 for very hard materials (like filled PLA). Set the correct dial location before loading filament.
# Load filament. With the dial at the correct setting and the extruder at the correct temperature, run your printer’s normal filament load cycle while you gently push the filament into the entrance liner.
# Prepare to print. Do your normal print setup routine (build platform prep, acetone clean, application of bonding agent, preheat, etc). Everyone has their own depending on their printer and the seriousness of their OCD. (See our printing tips section for some useful tricks and methods).

As an important note, do not swap between plastics with significant temperature differences (e.g. ABS v.s. PLA) without cleaning the extruder first. Swapping between plastics can lead to an accumulation of material in the extruder, preventing extrusion.

==== Heated Bed Care ====

Over time, the heated bed may need to be adjusted or cleaned. Please do not touch the platform directly, as oils from your hands can make adhesion difficult.

===== Bed Leveling The Quick Way =====

Once the filament is set up and the printer is ready to print, adjust the wingnuts on the bottom until you get good adhesion. The plastic should be mostly flattened and completely stuck to the surface. It might take a few iterations to get there, especially if you have a large part. There are some calibration objects on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 www.thingiverse.com] that can help level a larger area of the platform without using up a lot of plastic. In most cases only some fine-tuning as you print the first layer of your part will be sufficient.

===== Bed Leveling The Hard Way =====

There is a bed leveling utility built into the FFCP that you can navigate to using the five-button interface on the printer. Use the down button to reach the second page and select '''Utilities'''->'''Level Build Plate'''. It will send the Z-axis to its home position, then move the extruder to the center of the platform. The motors to the X-axis ad Y-axis are turned off and you can then move the head around.

Using a ~0.1mm thick shim (a standard piece of paper is close), adjust the trio of wingnuts under the bed until the extruder(s) just barely catch on the paper. Do this on all four corners and the middle a few times and the bed will be level.

This is the suggested bed leveling method in the flashforge documentation, as well as the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Bed_Leveling reprapwiki], but this process can take a lot of time to get right, so it's only really suggested if the build plate is far off.

=== Flashforge (Wooden Case) ===

=== Colido X3045 ===

== SLA Printers ==

=== Available SLA Printers ===

==== B9 Creater ====

==== formlabs2 ====

==== Elegoo Mars 2 (SLA printer) ====

==== Elegoo Mars 3 (SLA printer) ====

3D Printer

2021-10-23T23:57:34Z

Ninadel: adding new printers!

TinkerMill has a variety of 3D printers available for your use. Some require additional training for use (SLA printers), but general-purpose plastic printers can be used by anyone.

== Basics ==
=== Quick Start Guide ===

If you want to get printing right away, you can use one of the Dell laptops in the printing area. The software that's preferred for slicing and printer control is Simplify3D.

Simply import your desired STL(s), select a profile for printing (the default is JV_FFCP2). After the part is sliced, you can either print directly to either of the CreaterPro printers, or export the gcode to an SD card. There are several on the bench for your use, please do not take the SD cards home.

It is ideal if you can stay around to watch a print, however, unlike most machines in TinkerMill, the 3D printers may be ran unsupervised as prints can take many hours to complete. In these circumstances, please leave a note on the machine with your name and telephone number and make every effort to retrieve the parts when the print is complete. Unattended parts will be discarded.

=== Costs ===

Plastics cost about $0.10 per gram. There are two small AWS scales for weighing completed prints and print attempts. There is a jar where users are expected to donate money for all attempted prints.

=== Safety ===

Please allow parts to cool for about 15 minutes once a print is complete. It will be easier to remove once cooled.

== Available Printers ==

There are a variety of printers available for your use. The B9C and formlabs SLA printers require extra training for use.

=== FlashForge Creator Pro (FFCP) ===

There are two of these printers available for use. These are dual-extruder machines and there are laptops available for slicing/printing.

The manual for this printer can be found at the following link: [http://www.flashforge-usa.com/assets/manual/flashforge_creator_pro_user_guide_v01.20.2015.3.0.pdf?cd6e8a www.flashforge-usa.com]

==== Extruder Care ====

The printer has a Diabase dual extruder. The quick setup guide can be found at this following link [https://flexionextruder.com/support/printing-tips/ flexionextruder.com]. These instructions are also taped to the wall behind the printers. The quick guide cited in the link has been copied here:

# Before initially loading filament, loosen the set screw that contacts the cam surface of the dial. Set the dial to position 1. Tighten the set screw until the drive roller makes contact with the idler roller. Do not heavily torque the set screw, just tighten it using the shank of the allen wrench.
# Rotate the dial to position 4. (Confirm that the dial rotates between 1 and 4 without binding. If it binds, loosen the set screw a small amount.) At this point, you’re ready to load a filament and print. Use position 1 for very soft materials (Like Jellyfish or Ninjaflex), position 2 for moderately soft materials (like SemiFlex), position 3 for moderately hard materials (like ABS), and position 4 for very hard materials (like filled PLA). Set the correct dial location before loading filament.
# Load filament. With the dial at the correct setting and the extruder at the correct temperature, run your printer’s normal filament load cycle while you gently push the filament into the entrance liner.
# Prepare to print. Do your normal print setup routine (build platform prep, acetone clean, application of bonding agent, preheat, etc). Everyone has their own depending on their printer and the seriousness of their OCD. (See our printing tips section for some useful tricks and methods).

As an important note, do not swap between plastics with significant temperature differences (e.g. ABS v.s. PLA) without cleaning the extruder first. Swapping between plastics can lead to an accumulation of material in the extruder, preventing extrusion.

==== Heated Bed Care ====

Over time, the heated bed may need to be adjusted or cleaned. Please do not touch the platform directly, as oils from your hands can make adhesion difficult.

===== Bed Leveling The Quick Way =====

Once the filament is set up and the printer is ready to print, adjust the wingnuts on the bottom until you get good adhesion. The plastic should be mostly flattened and completely stuck to the surface. It might take a few iterations to get there, especially if you have a large part. There are some calibration objects on [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13053 www.thingiverse.com] that can help level a larger area of the platform without using up a lot of plastic. In most cases only some fine-tuning as you print the first layer of your part will be sufficient.

===== Bed Leveling The Hard Way =====

There is a bed leveling utility built into the FFCP that you can navigate to using the five-button interface on the printer. Use the down button to reach the second page and select '''Utilities'''->'''Level Build Plate'''. It will send the Z-axis to its home position, then move the extruder to the center of the platform. The motors to the X-axis ad Y-axis are turned off and you can then move the head around.

Using a ~0.1mm thick shim (a standard piece of paper is close), adjust the trio of wingnuts under the bed until the extruder(s) just barely catch on the paper. Do this on all four corners and the middle a few times and the bed will be level.

This is the suggested bed leveling method in the flashforge documentation, as well as the [http://reprap.org/wiki/Calibration#Bed_Leveling reprapwiki], but this process can take a lot of time to get right, so it's only really suggested if the build plate is far off.

=== Flashforge (Wooden Case) ===

=== Colido X3045 ===

=== B9 Creater (SLA printer) ===

=== formlabs2 (SLA printer) ===

=== Elegoo Mars 2 (SLA printer) ===

=== Elegoo Mars 3 (SLA printer) ===

Mold Making

2021-01-28T17:51:21Z

Ninadel: Starting a page on rubber mold making

This is a page about making molds. It will be focused on rubber molds (polyurethane rubber, silicone).

== Mold making materials ==
=== Polyurethane rubber ===
=== Silicone rubber ===
==== Tin cure ====
==== Platinum cure ====
=== Other ===

== Factors to consider when making a mold ==
* 1 part, 1 part tear, or 2 part mold
* Mold box
* Mold release
* Rubber hardness & viscosity
** Shore hardness
** Vacuum degassing
** Pressure casting
* Master material
** Porosity & sealing
** Materials that inhibit curing
*** Sulfur
*** Some plastics (see below)

== Making mold of 3D printed parts ==
=== Cure inhibition ===
* SLA resin
==== Mitigating cure inhibition ====
* https://joshuawoehlke.com/curing-silicone-in-sla-uv-molds-part-3/
* Inhibit X
* Using polyurethane rubber or tin cure silicone instead of platinum cure silicone
* Sealing with acrylic (e.g. Krylon Crystal Clear)

== Resources ==
=== Where to get mold making materials ===
* Reynolds Advanced Materials (Denver)
* Sculpture Depot (Loveland)
* Rio Grande

Laser Cutter

2021-01-04T02:52:41Z

Ninadel: /* Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving */

==Overview==
=== Specifications ===
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 (80 Watt) 
'''Working area:''' 1200 x 900 mm (47.2 x 35.4 inches)
 
=== Parts of the Laser ===
'''80 Watt laser tube''' - The laser tube lives at the back of the bed behind the white metal wall. This generates a beam of unfocused infrared radiation. 
'''Mirrors''' - Three mirrors are located on the X/Y carriage of this laser. They reflect the beam from the tube to the focal assembly. 
'''Focal assembly''' - This is the business end of the laser. This assembly contains the focusing lens, the auto-focus assembly, red-dot laser indicator, and plumbing for the "air-assist". 
'''Auto-focus assembly''' - This laser is equipped with an auto-focusing attachment that allows it to touch off of a working surface and move itself into an optimal focal range. 
'''X/Y carriage''' - Horizontal rails allow the focal assembly to move along the X and Y axes (left to right, and front to back). 
'''Z-axis''' - Four ballscrews allow the bed of the laser to move vertically along the Z axis. 
'''Honeycomb table''' - The table supports your material while also allowing exhaust to be pulled through the bed of the laser. 
'''Chiller''' - An chiller constantly circulates cooled water through the outer layers of the laser tube to help prevent the tube from overheating and cracking. 
'''Compressor / Air-assist''' - A small air compressor maintains constant airflow between the focusing lens and the cutting area. This helps extend the life of our optics and also produces cleaner cuts. 
 

==Safety==
=== Machine Safety ===
*'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''

*'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those settings, it needs maintenance. Please let someone know!'''

*'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''

*Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.

The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.

The machine is regularly checked and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified TinkerMill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!

Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine. 
 

=== Fire Safety ===
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. 
The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly. 
Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.
 

== Material Selection ==
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.

You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/

'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''

===Approved Materials===
A new settings page is being created here: [[Laser Cutter Settings]]



===DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE===
{| class="wikitable"
!Material
!Hazard
|-
|Polycarbonate ||Fire hazard
|-
|Lexan ||Fire hazard
|-
|PVC ||Chlorine
|-
|Cintra ||Chlorine
|-
|Vinyl ||Chlorine
|-
|ABS Plastic ||Fire hazard, difficult to clean up
|-
|Pleather / Faux Leather ||Chlorine
|-
|Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites ||Noxious fumes from epoxy
|-
|Printed Circuit Boards ||Noxious fumes
|-
|Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber ||Noxious fumes
|-
|HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic ||Fire hazard
|-
|Any Material Containing Chlorine || Chlorine
|}

==Usage==
=== Scheduling Time on the Laser Cutter ===
The laser cutter is a popular tool here at TinkerMill, thus a [[Resource Scheduling| Resource scheduling and reservation system ]] has been set up with [http://goo.gl/da2yxL Google Calendar].

=== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving ===
The upgrade of the 80W laser cutter has brought on a new laser cutter software called RDWorks. This program can be downloaded for free so makers can prepare their cuts on their own computers.
Link to RDWorks:
https://rabbitlaserusa.com/DriverDisk/Ruida/RDWorks/

==== Using RDWorks for Laser Cutting ====
* The file format native to RDWorks is .rld
* The laser cutter software imports DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format
** DXF files should be saved in R14 version
** The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm.
** If the RDWorks software is in a different unit system, change it in Config(S)>>File Para Setting>> '''DXF Unit''' (MM or Inch). You can also change '''Unit Type''' and '''Velocity Unit'''. But please change it back to MM when done.
** Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF format.
** DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts like water marks from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths.
** Make note of your document's size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the laser cutting software.
* The laser cutter software can import BMP or PNG as its raster format.
** Raster formats are pixel-based formats used for etching pictures.




==== Preparing Files With Adobe Illustrator ====


==== Preparing Files With Inkscape ====
[[Preparing Files With Inkscape (Outdated?)|Preparing files for LaserCut 5.3 in Inkscape]]

Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.

=== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving ===
The RDWorks software has advanced features for converting images to grayscale or black/white. Click the BMP icon in the top toolbar for those options.

 

=== Operating the Laser ===
'''''The laser cutter controller and software was upgraded in early 2018. A re-certification is required for any members trained prior to 2018.'''''

# Ensure that you have the correct file, dimensions, and cut/engrave settings for your job in RDWorks
# Turn the laser on using the key on the main control panel. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.
# Since the laser's relocation in early 2020, the MAIN VENTILATION FAN must be ON. To turn it on, there is a black case with two buttons on the vertical beam in the robotics shop behind and to the left. Press the black START button and ensure the rainbow light is on.
# Wait for the laser to complete it's initialization process and has stopped moving prior to loading any materials into the bed.
# In RDWorks use the "Download" button in the lower right corner of the screen to send your file to the cutter. Please leave "DEFAULT" as the name of the file you send to the laser, and overwrite any existing "DEFAULT" file.
# Scan your badge using the [[TinkerAccess]] kiosk above the main control panel. The laser tube cannot fire if a certified user is not signed in. If additional time is required users may re-scan at any point to extend the session.
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.
# The directional keys on the key pad are used to position the laser cutter's focal head. If the bed height needs to be adjusted this can be done by pressing the "Z/U" button on the keypad and with "Z MOVE" highlighted pressing the Right arrow to move the bed down, or the Left arrow to move the bed up.
# Once the focal head is correctly positioned relative to your material, please the "ORGIN" button on the keypad to lock in it's current location as the origin point for your job.
# At this point "FRAME" can be used to physically outline the outer-bounds of the work area for your job. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file.
# Now move the laser head so that the auto-focus probe is positioned directly above your material. Press the "Z/U" button and navigate to "AUTOFOCUS" and press "ENTER". It is '''crucial''' that the probe contact your material or the laser head may impact the bed and compress the focal tube. If you are going to miss your material with the auto-focus probe use the "ESC" key to stop the auto-focus process, or use the emergency stop to prevent the crash.
# You are now ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser from your previously declared origin point.
# Monitor your job closely. If you want to inspect the quality of your cuts and engraves mid run you may do so by pressing the "Stare-Pause" button. If you open the lid without pausing the run it will interrupt the beam but continue it's motion.
# Listen for a loud beep to indicate that your job is done.
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!
# Donate money for the laser cutter based on the suggested rate and the elapsed time it took to run, according to the time displayed on the laser cutter.

== Cleaning and Maintenance ==
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions. 

Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to [mailto:info@tinkermill.org info@tinkermill.org].

==== Lens Damage Examples ====
[[File:lens_damage_examples.png|720px|Lens Damage Examples]]

==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.
[[File:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png]]

==Resources==

=== Design Resources ===
*Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

*Example Projects 
**http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm 
**http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html

*Wood Inlay 
**[[Laser_Cut_Inlay|Tutorial for creating inlay drawings using Inkscape]]

*Living (or Lattice) Hinges 
**http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/
**http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm

*Software
**[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software] 
**[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images] 
**[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator] 
**[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator] 

=== Material Resources ===

*Rubber Stamp Materials - [http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe]

*[[Sourcing Materials#Plastics|Plastic Vendors]]

*[[Sourcing Materials#Woodworking|Birch Plywood]]

=== Cool Videos ===
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFMmaDzp4BY&feature=youtu.be CNC Laser Working Process cuttings sheet metal] 

[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Laser Cutter

2021-01-04T02:51:29Z

Ninadel:

==Overview==
=== Specifications ===
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 (80 Watt) 
'''Working area:''' 1200 x 900 mm (47.2 x 35.4 inches)
 
=== Parts of the Laser ===
'''80 Watt laser tube''' - The laser tube lives at the back of the bed behind the white metal wall. This generates a beam of unfocused infrared radiation. 
'''Mirrors''' - Three mirrors are located on the X/Y carriage of this laser. They reflect the beam from the tube to the focal assembly. 
'''Focal assembly''' - This is the business end of the laser. This assembly contains the focusing lens, the auto-focus assembly, red-dot laser indicator, and plumbing for the "air-assist". 
'''Auto-focus assembly''' - This laser is equipped with an auto-focusing attachment that allows it to touch off of a working surface and move itself into an optimal focal range. 
'''X/Y carriage''' - Horizontal rails allow the focal assembly to move along the X and Y axes (left to right, and front to back). 
'''Z-axis''' - Four ballscrews allow the bed of the laser to move vertically along the Z axis. 
'''Honeycomb table''' - The table supports your material while also allowing exhaust to be pulled through the bed of the laser. 
'''Chiller''' - An chiller constantly circulates cooled water through the outer layers of the laser tube to help prevent the tube from overheating and cracking. 
'''Compressor / Air-assist''' - A small air compressor maintains constant airflow between the focusing lens and the cutting area. This helps extend the life of our optics and also produces cleaner cuts. 
 

==Safety==
=== Machine Safety ===
*'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''

*'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those settings, it needs maintenance. Please let someone know!'''

*'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''

*Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.

The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.

The machine is regularly checked and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified TinkerMill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!

Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine. 
 

=== Fire Safety ===
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. 
The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly. 
Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.
 

== Material Selection ==
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.

You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/

'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''

===Approved Materials===
A new settings page is being created here: [[Laser Cutter Settings]]



===DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE===
{| class="wikitable"
!Material
!Hazard
|-
|Polycarbonate ||Fire hazard
|-
|Lexan ||Fire hazard
|-
|PVC ||Chlorine
|-
|Cintra ||Chlorine
|-
|Vinyl ||Chlorine
|-
|ABS Plastic ||Fire hazard, difficult to clean up
|-
|Pleather / Faux Leather ||Chlorine
|-
|Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites ||Noxious fumes from epoxy
|-
|Printed Circuit Boards ||Noxious fumes
|-
|Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber ||Noxious fumes
|-
|HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic ||Fire hazard
|-
|Any Material Containing Chlorine || Chlorine
|}

==Usage==
=== Scheduling Time on the Laser Cutter ===
The laser cutter is a popular tool here at TinkerMill, thus a [[Resource Scheduling| Resource scheduling and reservation system ]] has been set up with [http://goo.gl/da2yxL Google Calendar].

=== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving ===
The upgrade of the 80W laser cutter has brought on a new laser cutter software called RDWorks. This program can be downloaded for free so makers can prepare their cuts on their own computers.
Link to RDWorks
https://rabbitlaserusa.com/DriverDisk/Ruida/RDWorks/

==== Using RDWorks for Laser Cutting ====
* The file format native to RDWorks is .rld
* The laser cutter software imports DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format
** DXF files should be saved in R14 version
** The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm.
** If the RDWorks software is in a different unit system, change it in Config(S)>>File Para Setting>> '''DXF Unit''' (MM or Inch). You can also change '''Unit Type''' and '''Velocity Unit'''. But please change it back to MM when done.
** Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF format.
** DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts like water marks from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths.
** Make note of your document's size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the laser cutting software.
* The laser cutter software can import BMP or PNG as its raster format.
** Raster formats are pixel-based formats used for etching pictures.




==== Preparing Files With Adobe Illustrator ====


==== Preparing Files With Inkscape ====
[[Preparing Files With Inkscape (Outdated?)|Preparing files for LaserCut 5.3 in Inkscape]]

Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.

=== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving ===
The RDWorks software has advanced features for converting images to grayscale or black/white. Click the BMP icon in the top toolbar for those options.

 

=== Operating the Laser ===
'''''The laser cutter controller and software was upgraded in early 2018. A re-certification is required for any members trained prior to 2018.'''''

# Ensure that you have the correct file, dimensions, and cut/engrave settings for your job in RDWorks
# Turn the laser on using the key on the main control panel. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.
# Since the laser's relocation in early 2020, the MAIN VENTILATION FAN must be ON. To turn it on, there is a black case with two buttons on the vertical beam in the robotics shop behind and to the left. Press the black START button and ensure the rainbow light is on.
# Wait for the laser to complete it's initialization process and has stopped moving prior to loading any materials into the bed.
# In RDWorks use the "Download" button in the lower right corner of the screen to send your file to the cutter. Please leave "DEFAULT" as the name of the file you send to the laser, and overwrite any existing "DEFAULT" file.
# Scan your badge using the [[TinkerAccess]] kiosk above the main control panel. The laser tube cannot fire if a certified user is not signed in. If additional time is required users may re-scan at any point to extend the session.
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.
# The directional keys on the key pad are used to position the laser cutter's focal head. If the bed height needs to be adjusted this can be done by pressing the "Z/U" button on the keypad and with "Z MOVE" highlighted pressing the Right arrow to move the bed down, or the Left arrow to move the bed up.
# Once the focal head is correctly positioned relative to your material, please the "ORGIN" button on the keypad to lock in it's current location as the origin point for your job.
# At this point "FRAME" can be used to physically outline the outer-bounds of the work area for your job. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file.
# Now move the laser head so that the auto-focus probe is positioned directly above your material. Press the "Z/U" button and navigate to "AUTOFOCUS" and press "ENTER". It is '''crucial''' that the probe contact your material or the laser head may impact the bed and compress the focal tube. If you are going to miss your material with the auto-focus probe use the "ESC" key to stop the auto-focus process, or use the emergency stop to prevent the crash.
# You are now ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser from your previously declared origin point.
# Monitor your job closely. If you want to inspect the quality of your cuts and engraves mid run you may do so by pressing the "Stare-Pause" button. If you open the lid without pausing the run it will interrupt the beam but continue it's motion.
# Listen for a loud beep to indicate that your job is done.
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!
# Donate money for the laser cutter based on the suggested rate and the elapsed time it took to run, according to the time displayed on the laser cutter.

== Cleaning and Maintenance ==
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions. 

Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to [mailto:info@tinkermill.org info@tinkermill.org].

==== Lens Damage Examples ====
[[File:lens_damage_examples.png|720px|Lens Damage Examples]]

==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.
[[File:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png]]

==Resources==

=== Design Resources ===
*Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

*Example Projects 
**http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm 
**http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html

*Wood Inlay 
**[[Laser_Cut_Inlay|Tutorial for creating inlay drawings using Inkscape]]

*Living (or Lattice) Hinges 
**http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/
**http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm

*Software
**[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software] 
**[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images] 
**[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator] 
**[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator] 

=== Material Resources ===

*Rubber Stamp Materials - [http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe]

*[[Sourcing Materials#Plastics|Plastic Vendors]]

*[[Sourcing Materials#Woodworking|Birch Plywood]]

=== Cool Videos ===
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFMmaDzp4BY&feature=youtu.be CNC Laser Working Process cuttings sheet metal] 

[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

SolidWorks

2020-12-20T05:19:33Z

Ninadel: instructions for installing SolidWorks

SolidWorks is available on several workstations at TinkerMill.

Members of TinkerMill can also download the student edition of SolidWorks for free (Windows-only) by following these steps:
# Visit the [https://www.solidworks.com/support/community-download/ SolidWorks Community Download page]
# Fill out your contact information using your TinkerMill e-mail address
# Under "I already have a Serial Number that starts with 9020", select No
# Enter the code "9MAKER"
# Select the most recent academic version