TinkerMill Wiki - User contributions [en]

ShopBot

2021-12-06T22:47:41Z

John.stechschulte: 'nother reference

TinkerMill has a [http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot PRS Alpha], a CNC router that can be used for cutting wood or plastic according to CAD designs. The usual workflow is to create a design in CAD or drawing software (such as Inkscape, CorelDraw, or Adobe Illustrator), load it into VCarve, which plans the cuts and outputs parts files, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to execute on the machine.

[[File:shopbot.jpg|300px|The ShopBot at TinkerMill]]

== Basics ==
The essentials of operating the ShopBot are below. They are here as a reference, and not a substitute for taking the ShopBot class.

=== Approved Materials ===
While the ShopBot is capable of cutting many different types of material, there are some limitations. Below is a list of the approved materials on the TinkerMill ShopBot

* Soft Wood
* Hard Wood
* MDF
* Chipboard
* Plywood
* Plastics (Use caution not to melt!)1
* Garolite (G10)/FR41
* Foam1
* Aluminum (drilling operations and thin sheet metal only)2

1: These materials may have health hazards associated with them. Please use proper techniques to prevent dust being spread in the woodshop. Talk with your instructor for suggestions. 
2: Only with prior approval from the Executive Director (Jeff Moore) or the ShopBot Shop Captain (Ben Bohren, who has limited experience with material other than wood and will likely consult the masses and want agreement from director). Contact them via Slack or email in advance for approval. 

[[Items discussed on Slack and '''NOT''' allowed]]: 
* Fiberglass (Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass composites, basically anything with fiberglass). Reason: Dust is a health risk. 

=== Safety ===
The typical and obvious woodshop safety precautions should also be used with the ShopBot: always wear safety glasses; keep your hands away; do not wear baggy sleeves, jewelry, etc. that might get caught. More specific to the ShopBot:
[[File:ShopBot_crush_danger.jpg|150px|right|thumb|Crush danger: keep fingers clear]]

* Do not leave the ShopBot running unattended. Hitting the space bar will pause a cut and allow it to be resumed.
* Beware of the tracks that the x-axis carriage travels on. Do not rest your hands on them. The carriage can move quickly and crush fingers.
* Be sure your work is securely mounted on the table in all three dimensions (see [[#Securing your work|Securing your work]]).
* Use adequate tabs for any profile cuts. Although there's no one tab size that works for any project, bigger tabs are always safer.

=== Starting the ShopBot ===
Scan your badge on the TinkerAccess terminal to log in. Turn the big red switch on the ShopBot to turn it on.

If the computer is not logged in, the password is "password". On the computer, start the ShopBot 3 program. Make sure all the emergency stops are not pushed. When the software starts up, you will need to push the blue reset button.

Datum the X and Y axes by pressing the 'Home X,Y Axes' button on the control window. This will zero the X and Y axes to the bed.

=== Warming up the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_temp_check.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Testing the bearing temperature]]
It is important to warm up the ShopBot before use, to protect an important (and expensive) bearing. To warm it up, start the spindle and leave it spinning for at least 20-30 minutes. A reasonable workflow is to start the spindle when you first start up the machine, and then let it go while you secure your work.

Set the RPM to 8,000 to start.
Then increase to 12,000 after about 10 minutes. 'Spindle RPM Control' is under 'Tools' on the command console.

To start the spindle, open the keypad control (hit K), and then toggle '''Output 1''' on the Position (red) pane. Then, press the green '''Start''' button on the remote.

There is a temperature sensor attached to the ShopBot. Press the button and it will display current spindle temperature in degrees Celcius. Ideally the temperature should reach 33c. This temperature was agreed to for warm part of the year. As we get into winter the group should determine what a good Winter temperature should be.

=== Securing your work ===
[[File:ShopBot_securing_work.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Securing work. The wedges shown have a slightly wrong angle; this image only for illustration.]]
It is important to secure your work to the ShopBot table in all three dimensions, so that it cannot slide, lift, or spin. There are several ways to do this:
* Secure it to the spoilboard with screws. Be sure you use enough and that they sufficiently extend into the ShopBot table (about 1/4").
* If you cannot screw into your work, you can wedge it in place horizontally and clamp it down vertically, as show in the image to the left. (TODO: fix the wedges and take a new photo.)
It is also important that any pieces that may be cut free remain secure.

=== Changing bits ===
[[File:ShopBot_bit_installation.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Installing a bit. The wrench arrangement shown will tighten when squeezed.]]
'''Safety note:''' be sure to close the keypad control before changing the bit. This ensures that it takes more than a single button press to start the tool.

Snap the appropriately-sized collet into the collet nut. Before inserting the bit, align it with the ShopBot spindle and screw it in a few turns. Then, insert the bit and hold it while you hand-tighten the nut. Be sure the flutes are entirely exposed, so the collet has full contact with the bit (and no empty space). Carefully tighten the nut with the two wrenches. It's easiest to align the wrenches so they can just be squeezed together, although it takes some mental acrobatics to apply the right-hand rule upside-down and with a pair of wrenches.

=== Zeroing ===

Manually zero the X and Y axis to the origin of you material using the keypad and the Zero Axis button.

'''NOTE: '''If using the X&Y zero of the machine, make sure that your tool path does not cut into the wooden blocks on the board (ie the cutter goes slightly into the negative in the X or Y direction). These are zeroed and squared to the bed. If you damage these, you will be responsible for replacement and re-planing of the damaged blocks. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Connect the Z zeroing plate to the connector on the Z axis. Test the Z zeroing plate's continuity by tapping the bottom of the bit to the plate. Input 1 should light up indicating proper continuity. Make sure that the plate is clean and will not shift position during the routine.

'''IMPORTANT!''' You should always zero to the bed when cutting through material. Make sure that your V carve file is set up with the Z zero at the bottom of your material. If you fail to zero this properly and end up cutting into the spoil board, you will be responsible for re-planing or replacement of the spoil board. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Proceed to zero the Z axis using the 'Z zero' button on the control window.

=== Loading and running cuts ===

Once ready to run your tool path, click on 'File>PART FILE LOAD' and select the tool path you wish to run.

Ensure that you have the right file loaded, and press the green "Start" button on the control window. This will prompt you to start the spindle by manually pressing the green start button on the control pendant. Make sure that you press the start button on the control pendant before clicking 'OK' on the spindle start prompt. If 'OK' is pressed before the spindle is running, the gantry will begin moving and can break your bit and damage the machine.

Stay with the machine as it is running and keep an eye out for anything that does not seem right. Stop the machine if something does not seem right and investigate the cause.

== VCarve and planning ShopBot cuts ==
So you have a beautiful drawing of your part, and you have a ShopBot, which can move a tool around in 3-dimensional space. How can you put the two together to cut your part out? The task of planning toolpaths--where the bit is going to move, and at what speed--is usually accomplished using [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]. A trial edition is sufficient for planning cuts, and then you can save your work and load it on the full version at TinkerMill to calculate and export toolpaths, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to be executed. TinkerMill has a MakerSpace license for VCarve Pro, which allows members to activate a home installation of VCarve as clients. The activation key is provided to those taking the ShopBot class.

=== Loading a drawing ===

VCarve can read several drawing formats, including <code>.ai</code> and <code>.dxf</code> files. Choose "File > Open" and select the file. This example is done with <code>Made at TinkerMill v1.ai</code>. The Job Setup interface will appear. This is where you can adjust the size of the work, and define where the axes zeros will be. ''Tip: By default, the default work dimensions are a bounding box on the design. If you want the drawing centered on a slightly larger workpiece, input the new dimensions in the Job Size field, and then check and uncheck the "Scale design with job size" box.''

[[File:ShopBot_VCarve_job_setup.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The Job Setup interface. Set the size and zero positions of your work.]]

Setting zeros is an important step, and you must be careful that the zero position you choose on the design matches the zeros you set on the machine when you go to cut. Zeroing to the bottom of the workpiece is a safe choice, because you can then zero the machine to the bed, and know that you won't cut through it. Note, however, that your choices here are not final--you can change the zero settings later.

=== Planning cuts ===

==== Profile ====

==== Pocket ====

=== Speeds and Feeds Table ===

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Wood
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|rowspan="2"| MDF
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|4-5
|0.125"
|Pretty clean finish (Matt S)
|-
|1/2"
|2 Flute
|V Carve
|18,000
|3-4
|0.125"
|Need to test this more (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2-3
|0.125"
|Not sure if the best feed and speed, some tearout (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2.5
|0.75"
|Acceptable cut, could use some tuning. (Gordon R)
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Plastics
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|Phenolic Resin Paper (1/8" thick)
|1/8"
|3 Flute
| Upcut Straight
|12,000
|0.83 in/sec
|0.125"
|
|-
|}

== ShopBot Files in Tinkermill google drive ==
Tinkermill has folders in Google Drive for each shop.
Everyone with the link should be able to access the files.

Here is the link to the folder:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eEkpM6vu8GGScJ5_6hHo7b6IIg_az1Cx ShopBot Folder]

101 Class Notes:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ruCP6uaOgysmn0bOGWKH2HzCQRskLa3S-9r-vFDovcI 101 class notes]

Refresher Notes:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1h39ZiICAFU4ofFr9W2znIevBsbuEQEshMzHVzj1fjRw Refresher notes]

Resurfacing Notes (includes history):
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=157ApLaSbHH0YLKyYuHJR7JMXrIR5nwkzQ1YN3nIRqOg Resurfacing Notes]

== References ==
Some useful information:

* http://microfluidics.cnsi.ucsb.edu/wiki/doku.php?id=shopbotdesktoptrainingsop
* http://www.shopbotblog.com/2008/03/a-ramping-the-vr-command-and-how-to-tune-your-tool-for-maximum-performance/amp/
* https://www.shopbottools.com/ShopBotDocs/files/ComRef.pdf#page22
* https://wiki.harvard.edu/confluence/display/fabricationlab/Selecting+a+Stepover

ShopBot

2021-12-06T00:51:57Z

John.stechschulte: Added references

TinkerMill has a [http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot PRS Alpha], a CNC router that can be used for cutting wood or plastic according to CAD designs. The usual workflow is to create a design in CAD or drawing software (such as Inkscape, CorelDraw, or Adobe Illustrator), load it into VCarve, which plans the cuts and outputs parts files, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to execute on the machine.

[[File:shopbot.jpg|300px|The ShopBot at TinkerMill]]

== Basics ==
The essentials of operating the ShopBot are below. They are here as a reference, and not a substitute for taking the ShopBot class.

=== Approved Materials ===
While the ShopBot is capable of cutting many different types of material, there are some limitations. Below is a list of the approved materials on the TinkerMill ShopBot

* Soft Wood
* Hard Wood
* MDF
* Chipboard
* Plywood
* Plastics (Use caution not to melt!)1
* Garolite (G10)/FR41
* Foam1
* Aluminum (drilling operations and thin sheet metal only)2

1: These materials may have health hazards associated with them. Please use proper techniques to prevent dust being spread in the woodshop. Talk with your instructor for suggestions. 
2: Only with prior approval from the Executive Director (Jeff Moore) or the ShopBot Shop Captain (Ben Bohren, who has limited experience with material other than wood and will likely consult the masses and want agreement from director). Contact them via Slack or email in advance for approval. 

[[Items discussed on Slack and '''NOT''' allowed]]: 
* Fiberglass (Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass composites, basically anything with fiberglass). Reason: Dust is a health risk. 

=== Safety ===
The typical and obvious woodshop safety precautions should also be used with the ShopBot: always wear safety glasses; keep your hands away; do not wear baggy sleeves, jewelry, etc. that might get caught. More specific to the ShopBot:
[[File:ShopBot_crush_danger.jpg|150px|right|thumb|Crush danger: keep fingers clear]]

* Do not leave the ShopBot running unattended. Hitting the space bar will pause a cut and allow it to be resumed.
* Beware of the tracks that the x-axis carriage travels on. Do not rest your hands on them. The carriage can move quickly and crush fingers.
* Be sure your work is securely mounted on the table in all three dimensions (see [[#Securing your work|Securing your work]]).
* Use adequate tabs for any profile cuts. Although there's no one tab size that works for any project, bigger tabs are always safer.

=== Starting the ShopBot ===
Scan your badge on the TinkerAccess terminal to log in. Turn the big red switch on the ShopBot to turn it on.

If the computer is not logged in, the password is "password". On the computer, start the ShopBot 3 program. Make sure all the emergency stops are not pushed. When the software starts up, you will need to push the blue reset button.

Datum the X and Y axes by pressing the 'Home X,Y Axes' button on the control window. This will zero the X and Y axes to the bed.

=== Warming up the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_temp_check.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Testing the bearing temperature]]
It is important to warm up the ShopBot before use, to protect an important (and expensive) bearing. To warm it up, start the spindle and leave it spinning for at least 20-30 minutes. A reasonable workflow is to start the spindle when you first start up the machine, and then let it go while you secure your work.

Set the RPM to 8,000 to start.
Then increase to 12,000 after about 10 minutes. 'Spindle RPM Control' is under 'Tools' on the command console.

To start the spindle, open the keypad control (hit K), and then toggle '''Output 1''' on the Position (red) pane. Then, press the green '''Start''' button on the remote.

There is a temperature sensor attached to the ShopBot. Press the button and it will display current spindle temperature in degrees Celcius. Ideally the temperature should reach 33c. This temperature was agreed to for warm part of the year. As we get into winter the group should determine what a good Winter temperature should be.

=== Securing your work ===
[[File:ShopBot_securing_work.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Securing work. The wedges shown have a slightly wrong angle; this image only for illustration.]]
It is important to secure your work to the ShopBot table in all three dimensions, so that it cannot slide, lift, or spin. There are several ways to do this:
* Secure it to the spoilboard with screws. Be sure you use enough and that they sufficiently extend into the ShopBot table (about 1/4").
* If you cannot screw into your work, you can wedge it in place horizontally and clamp it down vertically, as show in the image to the left. (TODO: fix the wedges and take a new photo.)
It is also important that any pieces that may be cut free remain secure.

=== Changing bits ===
[[File:ShopBot_bit_installation.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Installing a bit. The wrench arrangement shown will tighten when squeezed.]]
'''Safety note:''' be sure to close the keypad control before changing the bit. This ensures that it takes more than a single button press to start the tool.

Snap the appropriately-sized collet into the collet nut. Before inserting the bit, align it with the ShopBot spindle and screw it in a few turns. Then, insert the bit and hold it while you hand-tighten the nut. Be sure the flutes are entirely exposed, so the collet has full contact with the bit (and no empty space). Carefully tighten the nut with the two wrenches. It's easiest to align the wrenches so they can just be squeezed together, although it takes some mental acrobatics to apply the right-hand rule upside-down and with a pair of wrenches.

=== Zeroing ===

Manually zero the X and Y axis to the origin of you material using the keypad and the Zero Axis button.

'''NOTE: '''If using the X&Y zero of the machine, make sure that your tool path does not cut into the wooden blocks on the board (ie the cutter goes slightly into the negative in the X or Y direction). These are zeroed and squared to the bed. If you damage these, you will be responsible for replacement and re-planing of the damaged blocks. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Connect the Z zeroing plate to the connector on the Z axis. Test the Z zeroing plate's continuity by tapping the bottom of the bit to the plate. Input 1 should light up indicating proper continuity. Make sure that the plate is clean and will not shift position during the routine.

'''IMPORTANT!''' You should always zero to the bed when cutting through material. Make sure that your V carve file is set up with the Z zero at the bottom of your material. If you fail to zero this properly and end up cutting into the spoil board, you will be responsible for re-planing or replacement of the spoil board. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Proceed to zero the Z axis using the 'Z zero' button on the control window.

=== Loading and running cuts ===

Once ready to run your tool path, click on 'File>PART FILE LOAD' and select the tool path you wish to run.

Ensure that you have the right file loaded, and press the green "Start" button on the control window. This will prompt you to start the spindle by manually pressing the green start button on the control pendant. Make sure that you press the start button on the control pendant before clicking 'OK' on the spindle start prompt. If 'OK' is pressed before the spindle is running, the gantry will begin moving and can break your bit and damage the machine.

Stay with the machine as it is running and keep an eye out for anything that does not seem right. Stop the machine if something does not seem right and investigate the cause.

== VCarve and planning ShopBot cuts ==
So you have a beautiful drawing of your part, and you have a ShopBot, which can move a tool around in 3-dimensional space. How can you put the two together to cut your part out? The task of planning toolpaths--where the bit is going to move, and at what speed--is usually accomplished using [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]. A trial edition is sufficient for planning cuts, and then you can save your work and load it on the full version at TinkerMill to calculate and export toolpaths, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to be executed. TinkerMill has a MakerSpace license for VCarve Pro, which allows members to activate a home installation of VCarve as clients. The activation key is provided to those taking the ShopBot class.

=== Loading a drawing ===

VCarve can read several drawing formats, including <code>.ai</code> and <code>.dxf</code> files. Choose "File > Open" and select the file. This example is done with <code>Made at TinkerMill v1.ai</code>. The Job Setup interface will appear. This is where you can adjust the size of the work, and define where the axes zeros will be. ''Tip: By default, the default work dimensions are a bounding box on the design. If you want the drawing centered on a slightly larger workpiece, input the new dimensions in the Job Size field, and then check and uncheck the "Scale design with job size" box.''

[[File:ShopBot_VCarve_job_setup.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The Job Setup interface. Set the size and zero positions of your work.]]

Setting zeros is an important step, and you must be careful that the zero position you choose on the design matches the zeros you set on the machine when you go to cut. Zeroing to the bottom of the workpiece is a safe choice, because you can then zero the machine to the bed, and know that you won't cut through it. Note, however, that your choices here are not final--you can change the zero settings later.

=== Planning cuts ===

==== Profile ====

==== Pocket ====

=== Speeds and Feeds Table ===

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Wood
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|rowspan="2"| MDF
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|4-5
|0.125"
|Pretty clean finish (Matt S)
|-
|1/2"
|2 Flute
|V Carve
|18,000
|3-4
|0.125"
|Need to test this more (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2-3
|0.125"
|Not sure if the best feed and speed, some tearout (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2.5
|0.75"
|Acceptable cut, could use some tuning. (Gordon R)
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Plastics
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|Phenolic Resin Paper (1/8" thick)
|1/8"
|3 Flute
| Upcut Straight
|12,000
|0.83 in/sec
|0.125"
|
|-
|}

== ShopBot Files in Tinkermill google drive ==
Tinkermill has folders in Google Drive for each shop.
Everyone with the link should be able to access the files.

Here is the link to the folder:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eEkpM6vu8GGScJ5_6hHo7b6IIg_az1Cx ShopBot Folder]

101 Class Notes:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ruCP6uaOgysmn0bOGWKH2HzCQRskLa3S-9r-vFDovcI 101 class notes]

Refresher Notes:
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1h39ZiICAFU4ofFr9W2znIevBsbuEQEshMzHVzj1fjRw Refresher notes]

Resurfacing Notes (includes history):
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=157ApLaSbHH0YLKyYuHJR7JMXrIR5nwkzQ1YN3nIRqOg Resurfacing Notes]

== References ==
Some useful information:
* http://www.shopbotblog.com/2008/03/a-ramping-the-vr-command-and-how-to-tune-your-tool-for-maximum-performance/amp/
* https://www.shopbottools.com/ShopBotDocs/files/ComRef.pdf#page22

ShopBot

2019-06-05T04:49:07Z

John.stechschulte: /* Starting the ShopBot */ Removed lockbox instructions

TinkerMill has a [http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot PRS Alpha], a CNC router that can be used for cutting wood or plastic according to CAD designs. The usual workflow is to create a design in CAD or drawing software (such as Inkscape, CorelDraw, or Adobe Illustrator), load it into VCarve, which plans the cuts and outputs parts files, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to execute on the machine.

[[File:shopbot.jpg|300px|The ShopBot at TinkerMill]]

== Basics ==
The essentials of operating the ShopBot are below. They are here as a reference, and not a substitute for taking the ShopBot class.

=== Approved Materials ===
While the ShopBot is capable of cutting many different types of material, there are some limitations. Below is a list of the approved materials on the TinkerMill ShopBot

* Soft Wood
* Hard Wood
* MDF
* Chipboard
* Plywood
* Plastics (Use caution not to melt!)1
* Garolite (G10)/FR41
* Foam1
* Aluminum (drilling operations and thin sheet metal only)2

1: These materials may have health hazards associated with them. Please use proper techniques to prevent dust being spread in the woodshop. Talk with your instructor for suggestions. 
2: Only with prior approval from the Executive Director (Ron Thomas) or the ShopBot Shop Captain (Matt Stallard). Contact them via Slack or email in advance for approval.

=== Safety ===
The typical and obvious woodshop safety precautions should also be used with the ShopBot: always wear safety glasses; keep your hands away; do not wear baggy sleeves, jewelry, etc. that might get caught. More specific to the ShopBot:
[[File:ShopBot_crush_danger.jpg|150px|right|thumb|Crush danger: keep fingers clear]]

* Do not leave the ShopBot running unattended. Hitting the space bar will pause a cut and allow it to be resumed.
* Beware of the tracks that the x-axis carriage travels on. Do not rest your hands on them. The carriage can move quickly and crush fingers.
* Be sure your work is securely mounted on the table in all three dimensions (see [[#Securing your work|Securing your work]]).
* Use adequate tabs for any profile cuts. Although there's no one tab size that works for any project, bigger tabs are always safer.

=== Starting the ShopBot ===
Scan your badge on the TinkerAccess terminal to log in. Turn the big red switch on the ShopBot to turn it on.

If the computer is not logged in, the password is "password". On the computer, start the ShopBot 3 program. Make sure all the emergency stops are not pushed. When the software starts up, you will need to push the blue reset button.

Datum the X and Y axes by pressing the 'Home X,Y Axes' button on the control window. This will zero the X and Y axes to the bed.

=== Warming up the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_temp_check.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Testing the bearing temperature]]
It is important to warm up the ShopBot before use, to protect an important (and expensive) bearing. To warm it up, start the spindle and leave it spinning for at least 20-30 minutes. A reasonable workflow is to start the spindle when you first start up the machine, and then let it go while you secure your work.

Set the RPM to 8,000 to start.
Then increase to 12,000 after about 10 minutes. 'Spindle RPM Control' is under 'Tools' on the command console.

To start the spindle, open the keypad control (hit K), and then toggle '''Output 1''' on the Position (red) pane. Then, press the green '''Start''' button on the remote.

There is an IR laser thermometer in the drawers next to the computer. Use it to measure the temperature of the wide black ring at the bottom of the router, just above the plexiglass. Ideally the temperature should reach 85F, but this may be difficult in the winter.

=== Securing your work ===
[[File:ShopBot_securing_work.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Securing work. The wedges shown have a slightly wrong angle; this image only for illustration.]]
It is important to secure your work to the ShopBot table in all three dimensions, so that it cannot slide, lift, or spin. There are several ways to do this:
* Secure it to the spoilboard with screws. Be sure you use enough and that they sufficiently extend into the ShopBot table (about 1/4").
* If you cannot screw into your work, you can wedge it in place horizontally and clamp it down vertically, as show in the image to the left. (TODO: fix the wedges and take a new photo.)
It is also important that any pieces that may be cut free remain secure.

=== Changing bits ===
[[File:ShopBot_bit_installation.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Installing a bit. The wrench arrangement shown will tighten when squeezed.]]
'''Safety note:''' be sure to close the keypad control before changing the bit. This ensures that it takes more than a single button press to start the tool.

Snap the appropriately-sized collet into the collet nut. Before inserting the bit, align it with the ShopBot spindle and screw it in a few turns. Then, insert the bit and hold it while you hand-tighten the nut. Be sure the flutes are entirely exposed, so the collet has full contact with the bit (and no empty space). Carefully tighten the nut with the two wrenches. It's easiest to align the wrenches so they can just be squeezed together, although it takes some mental acrobatics to apply the right-hand rule upside-down and with a pair of wrenches.

=== Zeroing ===

Manually zero the X and Y axis to the origin of you material using the keypad and the Zero Axis button.

'''NOTE: '''If using the X&Y zero of the machine, make sure that your tool path does not cut into the wooden blocks on the board (ie the cutter goes slightly into the negative in the X or Y direction). These are zeroed and squared to the bed. If you damage these, you will be responsible for replacement and re-planing of the damaged blocks. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Connect the Z zeroing plate to the connector on the Z axis. Test the Z zeroing plate's continuity by tapping the bottom of the bit to the plate. Input 1 should light up indicating proper continuity. Make sure that the plate is clean and will not shift position during the routine.

'''IMPORTANT!''' You should always zero to the bed when cutting through material. Make sure that your V carve file is set up with the Z zero at the bottom of your material. If you fail to zero this properly and end up cutting into the spoil board, you will be responsible for re-planing or replacement of the spoil board. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Proceed to zero the Z axis using the 'Z zero' button on the control window.

=== Loading and running cuts ===

Once ready to run your tool path, click on 'File>PART FILE LOAD' and select the tool path you wish to run.

Ensure that you have the right file loaded, and press the green "Start" button on the control window. This will prompt you to start the spindle by manually pressing the green start button on the control pendant. Make sure that you press the start button on the control pendant before clicking 'OK' on the spindle start prompt. If 'OK' is pressed before the spindle is running, the gantry will begin moving and can break your bit and damage the machine.

Stay with the machine as it is running and keep an eye out for anything that does not seem right. Stop the machine if something does not seem right and investigate the cause.

== VCarve and planning ShopBot cuts ==
So you have a beautiful drawing of your part, and you have a ShopBot, which can move a tool around in 3-dimensional space. How can you put the two together to cut your part out? The task of planning toolpaths--where the bit is going to move, and at what speed--is usually accomplished using [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]. A trial edition is sufficient for planning cuts, and then you can save your work and load it on the full version at TinkerMill to calculate and export toolpaths, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to be executed. TinkerMill has a MakerSpace license for VCarve Pro, which allows members to activate a home installation of VCarve as clients. The activation key is provided to those taking the ShopBot class.

=== Loading a drawing ===

VCarve can read several drawing formats, including <code>.ai</code> and <code>.dxf</code> files. Choose "File > Open" and select the file. This example is done with <code>Made at TinkerMill v1.ai</code>. The Job Setup interface will appear. This is where you can adjust the size of the work, and define where the axes zeros will be. ''Tip: By default, the default work dimensions are a bounding box on the design. If you want the drawing centered on a slightly larger workpiece, input the new dimensions in the Job Size field, and then check and uncheck the "Scale design with job size" box.''

[[File:ShopBot_VCarve_job_setup.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The Job Setup interface. Set the size and zero positions of your work.]]

Setting zeros is an important step, and you must be careful that the zero position you choose on the design matches the zeros you set on the machine when you go to cut. Zeroing to the bottom of the workpiece is a safe choice, because you can then zero the machine to the bed, and know that you won't cut through it. Note, however, that your choices here are not final--you can change the zero settings later.

=== Planning cuts ===

==== Profile ====

==== Pocket ====

=== Speeds and Feeds Table ===

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Wood
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|rowspan="2"| MDF
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|4-5
|0.125"
|Pretty clean finish (Matt S)
|-
|1/2"
|2 Flute
|V Carve
|18,000
|3-4
|0.125"
|Need to test this more (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2-3
|0.125"
|Not sure if the best feed and speed, some tearout (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2.5
|0.75"
|Acceptable cut, could use some tuning. (Gordon R)
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Plastics
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|Phenolic Resin Paper (1/8" thick)
|1/8"
|3 Flute
| Upcut Straight
|12,000
|0.83 in/sec
|0.125"
|
|-
|}

=== Exporting toolpaths ===

Course Catalog - work in progress

2019-03-22T06:14:38Z

John.stechschulte: John.stechschulte moved page Course Catalog - work in progress to Course Catalog: All wiki pages are a work in progress

#REDIRECT [[Course Catalog]]

Tormek

2019-02-12T20:32:45Z

John.stechschulte: Set out to update links, but then I rewrote the page

The Tormek is an incredibly capable sharpening tool and unlike grinding on a high speed grinder, it will protect the metal hardness of the cutting tool while restoring a damaged or dull blade. The jigs will insure proper angles on a blade.

'''This is not a standard grinder. It is a low speed water grinder. The stone wheel can be have an effective 220 or 1000 grit surface. Read the [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AJblyfV_Dpx9nLKdnmiLUZVbu5cbVc6s/view?usp=sharing manual] for more information.''' (Manual is accessible to members. Be sure to use your tinkermill.org Google account.)

Before using the tool, understand these rules:
* Never operate the tool without water.
* Read the manual before operation.
* Suggested: talk to someone who has used it before for a quick hands-on demonstration, about 10 minutes.

More information. '''These resources do not replace reading the manual!'''
* The [https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/machine-models/tormek-t-8/ T-8 product page] highlights the features of the Tormek model that TinkerMill has. There is also an overview video.
* This [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm4uqx9s-UQ YouTube video] provides a very thorough introduction to the tool.
* [http://www.tormek.com/en/jigs/index.php Overview of the different jigs]. There is more info about each jig on its respective page. In particular, the [https://www.tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/se-76-square-edge-jig/ SE-76 Square Edge Jig] is of interest.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QZtNnI7bA0 YouTube video] about sharpening chisels.

Foundry

2019-01-28T02:43:44Z

John.stechschulte: Fixed Google Docs link

TinkerMill has a foundry! It can use it to cast aluminum using a sand cast mold system. In the near future, it will be
able to used to cast bronze using an investment casting system.

Early next spring, 2019, the Foundry will be moving to a larger location in the back bay, on the south side of the welding area.

Over the winter 2018-2019, we will be holding a few planning meetings to design the new foundry area. Please contact us
through the foundry slack channel if you are interested in contributing to the design of the new foundry.

Basic foundry certification classes are offered once per month. To be fully certified, the certification class and
four independent pours are required. Often these can happen during the certification class. If not, there are always pour times set up
at the end of every certification class for this purpose. It is our intention to also begin to offer mold-making classes.

To use the foundry independently, two people present. Both the person pouring and the person
who is the safety backup person must have completed the safety certification course.

Presently there is a charge of $5.00 per pour to cover the cost of the gas. This may change with time as we have more
time to assess this. We have had a pile of scrap aluminum tubing, bar, and previously cast parts that we make into
ingots for classes and practice pours. We cannot supply this aluminum to you for your projects, however. There are
a few places where you can purchase scrap aluminum. This one is known and recommended to the foundry shop,
Alreco, 11299 Brighton Rd., Henderson, CO 80640, 303.287.7210. I don't find much web presence for them, though
they are known to have great recycled aluminum.

[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZWzSzdDu5A5V7SkYHQLXb9JEwv1i6aO9pDf8aHg6KH4 Foundry checklist]

Foundry

2018-11-25T18:12:28Z

John.stechschulte: Added link to checklist

TinkerMill has a foundry! It can use it to cast aluminum using a sand cast mold system. In the near future, it will be
able to used to cast bronze using an investment casting system.

Early next spring, 2019, the Foundry will be moving to a larger location in the back bay, on the south side of the welding area.

Over the winter 2018-2019, we will be holding a few planning meetings to design the new foundry area. Please contact us
through the foundry slack channel if you are interested in contributing to the design of the new foundry.

Basic foundry certification classes are offered once per month. To be fully certified, the certification class and
four independent pours are required. Often these can happen during the certification class. If not, there are always pour times set up
at the end of every certification class for this purpose. It is our intention to also begin to offer mold-making classes.

To use the foundry independently, two people present. Both the person pouring and the person
who is the safety backup person must have completed the safety certification course.

Presently there is a charge of $5.00 per pour to cover the cost of the gas. This may change with time as we have more
time to assess this. We have had a pile of scrap aluminum tubing, bar, and previously cast parts that we make into
ingots for classes and practice pours. We cannot supply this aluminum to you for your projects, however. There are
a few places where you can purchase scrap aluminum. This one is known and recommended to the foundry shop,
Alreco, 11299 Brighton Rd., Henderson, CO 80640, 303.287.7210. I don't find much web presence for them, though
they are known to have great recycled aluminum.

[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wp976XrLXXGaODyNNVDVSMbzutjrnjROIc1E09MEWcc Foundry checklist]

Foundry

2018-10-16T19:18:26Z

John.stechschulte: Created page

TinkerMill has a foundry! You can use it to cast aluminum.

TinkerMill also has a wiki. Unfortunately, you can't really use it to learn more about the foundry . . . yet.

Panel Saw

2018-05-03T03:07:01Z

John.stechschulte:

'''Using the TinkerMill Panel Saw'''
Model Number: Needed

[[File:Panel_saw.jpg|300px|The panel saw (router, in this situation).]]

==Usage Guidelines:==

1. Users must be certified to use this tool prior to operation. It is a highly precise tool. Respect the tool. Pay particular attention to keeping fingers clear of the saw blade.

2. You must use dust collection and clean up the space around the tool after using it. The dust hose should feed through the hole above the pulley at the top of the panel.

3. Do not make adjustments to the alignment. Contact a shop captain for help first if something looks out of alignment.

4. Always cut in the direction of the arrow. The arrow should point down for vertical cuts, and to the left for horizontal cuts.

5. Cut speed should be about 1 ft/sec. Allow saw to reach full speed before the start of the cut.

6. Make sure wood is not touching the blade before the start of the cut.

7. Consider clamping the wood to the rack when making vertical cuts.

8. This tool is designed for breaking down large sheet goods, such as a large 4x8ft piece of plywood. Other tools including the table saw are better suited for final dimensioned cuts and smaller (i.e. less than 3x3 foot plywood) pieces.

9. The measure strips are accurate.

10. When you are finished, unplug the saw; vacuum the tool, as well as the ground under and behind it; tighten the screws on the carriage.

==Cut types==

===Vertical===
Vertical cuts, cross cuts, are made by holding the trigger of the saw and moving the saw on the carriage. The arrow should be pointed down. Pull the trigger at the top and move the saw down at about 1 foot per second. The carriage will start up and move vertically down.

===Horizontal===
Horizontal cuts, rips, are made by locking the carriage in place with the screws, holding the trigger down with the attached black trigger clamp. Make sure the arrow is pointing to the left, and push the material through to the right. Start by pushing the material into the blade, and finish the cut by pulling the cut pieces, supporting the top piece.

===Router===
We have a router that is compatible with the panel saw. You must be checked out to swap the router and circular saw.

==General Usage Video of a Panel Saw==

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P85dXoosiv0

==Users Manual==

https://www.sawtrax.com/pdf/OM2010.pdf

File:Panel saw.jpg

2018-05-03T03:05:17Z

John.stechschulte: John.stechschulte uploaded a new version of File:Panel saw.jpg

The panel saw in the wood shop.

File:Panel saw.jpg

2018-05-03T02:58:41Z

John.stechschulte: The panel saw in the wood shop.

The panel saw in the wood shop.

Woodworking

2017-12-16T01:25:49Z

John.stechschulte: /* Tools */ Added scroll saw and uploaded its manual

The TinkerMill has a wonderful and complete woodworking shop. We communicate using Slack in #woodshop for tool repair status and event coordination.

''The wood shop is a great place to learn basic woodworking and more advanced woodworking skills.''

[[File:woodshop.jpg|300px|The wood shop at TinkerMill]]

== Top things you should know about the Wood Shop ==

1. '''Woodshop classes are taught every month'''. You must take the Wood Shop Introduction and Safety class (Wood Shop 101) before using any of the power tools that are not hand power tools. All TinkerMill members can use hand non-powered and hand power tools. All larger power tools, such as the drill press, chop saw among others can be used after taking a certification class. The ShopBot and Lathe have their own separate certification classes. See the MeetUp calendar https://www.meetup.com/LongmontHackerSpace/events/upcoming for the coming classes.

2. '''The Wood Shop Community''' are on Monday's at 7pm. Special topics will be announced on MeetUp or on Slack. If you have questions and want to meet folks consider stopping by on Monday at 7pm in the Wood Shop.

3. The SawStop table saw is incredibly accurate, powerful and full of safety features. '''It can be used after the wood shop certification class.'''

4. '''Every user of the space is responsible for cleaning up during and after your project.''' There is no cleaning service. If you don't clean up your mess another TinkerMill Member will be forced to clean up and you may loose privileges to use the space. Follow the 105% rule - Leave the space 5% better than the way you found it.

5. The Wood Shop is for wood projects only. Do not use any of the tools on non-wood. The general work bench in the main room has tools to be used for other materials.

== Tool and Room Usage ==
* Find out if the SawStop Table Saw is in use on the https://tinkermill.slack.com/archives/machine-usage slack channel
* Find out if the Wood Shop is reserved: http://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php/Resource_Scheduling#How_to_View_the_Resource_Calendars
Checkout MeetUp to find out when the next class or Community Night will be held.

== Classes ==

We are building classes that are offered in the Wood Shop. The Wood Shop is built on the idea that anyone can learn wood working and some people have varying levels of previous experience. The fictitious course numbers are provided as rough gauge of class level. The Wood Shop Introduction and Safety Class is a prerequisite for all other classes and there are no other prerequisite classes unless specifically noted. Classes are taught by volunteers and not yet taught on a regular basis besides the Introduction class that is taught about once every two weeks. If a class is of interest, contact a shop captain or message on Slack.

'''1. [[Wood Shop Introduction and Safety Class]] (Wood Shop 101)'''

Everyone using the space must take this class to learn how to use the basic tools and safety features of the shop. Learn how to use the drill press, belt sander, band saw, miter saw (aka chop saw), and dust collection system. This class also includes an optional introduction to using the table saw. This class is a prerequisite for all other classes.

'''2. [[Wood Shop Supreme]] (Wood Shop 201)'''

Learn how to dimension a board and make a picture frame. This course covers how to use more advanced tools in the wood shop such as the router, planer, joiner, and drum sander.

'''3. Make a Wooden Spoon (Wood Shop 105)'''

Learn how to use chisels and gouges to shape wood by hand. Simple power tools such as the band saw and belt sander. The rough contours are created and then progressively finer sandpaper is used to smooth the wood. Finally the spoon is sealed with a food safe finish.

'''4. Lathe Certification (Wood Shop 110)'''

Get certified to use the Lathe. This is a specialized tool and requires specific safety instruction.

'''5. Make a Birdhouse'''

'''6. Make a Jewelry Box (Wood Shop 205)'''

Learn about rough stock selection, resawing stock on the band saw, and designing projects with wood movement in mind while building a small box (approx. 4"x4"x6"). The techniques in this class can be easily applied to larger boxes and chests as well as bookshelves and things with drawers. Approximately 10-12 hours of shop time spread over 4 sessions. Some experience or Woodshop 201 recommended.

== Tools ==
Here is a non comprehensive list of tools. Read up here to find operations manuals and some usage guidelines.

The dust collection tools are vital for maintaining a safe environment in the woodshop. Everyone should be familiar with their function and appropriate use:
* [[Dust Collector]]
* [[Media:1791330_man_EN.pdf | Air Filtration System]]

Any member may use:
* [[Hand Tools]]
* [[Hand Power Tools]]

Woodshop Assimilation tools:
* [[Table Saw]] aka the [[SawStop]]
* [[Miter (Chop) Saw ]]
* [[Belt Sander]]
* [[Band Saw]]
* [[Drill Press]]
* Scroll saw ([[:File:Dremel_571.pdf|manual]])

Woodshop Supreme tools:
* [[Thickness Planer]]
* [[Jointer]]
* [[Router Table]]
* [[Drum Sander]]

Lathe Certification Class
* [[Lathe]]

While this tool is not in the Wood Shop, it is a great resource for sharpening tools in the shop.

*[[Tormek]] - This is a wet grinding stone and is capable of producing finely sharpened tools.

[[Category:Woodshop]]


== Resources ==
Further learning and where to find supplies

'''Learning'''

[https://www.youtube.com/user/stevinmarin Great Series of Videos on all wood working topics]

'''Supplies'''

1. Stan’s Hardwood

http://www.longmonthardwood.com/

2. Woodcraft in Loveland

http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/566/woodcraft-of-loveland.aspx

3. Austin Hardwoods in Denver (right off I-25 at Broadway)
Many species stocked in thicknesses from 4/4 through 16/4.

Will mill rough stock to S3S (three sides flat, smooth and square to each other) for $0.30/bf

http://austinhardwoods.com/lumber.shtml

'''Woodworking Tools'''

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JM_AExPBSmU Dewalt DWE7491rs ]

Back to: [[Main Page]]

File:Dremel 571.pdf

2017-12-16T01:24:59Z

John.stechschulte: Manual for Dremel 571 scroll saw

Manual for Dremel 571 scroll saw

Dust Collector

2017-08-08T19:16:11Z

John.stechschulte: spelling

The dust collector is an essential tool in the wood shop. Be sure to use it.

To clean the dust collector, be sure to wear a respirator, and then
# Take off the filter;
# Dump what you can in the trash;
# With the filter upside down, tap the edges firmly but not too hard to dislodge the dust; and
# Dump it out again.
Repeat the last two steps until the filter is clean.

The filter is expensive and can be ruined if torn (don't rub the shop vac against it), or if the outer metal mesh is bent (don't tap too hard).

Dust Collector

2017-08-08T19:15:41Z

John.stechschulte: Refined some language.

The dust collector is an essential tool in the wood shop. Be sure to use it.

To clean the dust collector, be sure to wear a respirator, and then
# Take off the filter;
# Dump what you can in the trash;
# With the filter upside down, tap the edges firmly but not too hard to dislodge the dust; and
# Dump it out again.
Repeat the last two steps until the filter is clean.

The filter is expensive and can be ruined if torn (don't rub the shopvac against it), or if the outer metal mesh is bent (don't tap too hard).

Dust Collector

2017-08-07T22:40:14Z

John.stechschulte: Converted Matt's Slack post into the page.

The dust collector is an essential tool in the wood shop. Be sure to use it.

To clean the dust collector, be sure to wear a respirator, and then
# Take off the filter;
# Dump what you can in the trash;
# With the filter upside down, tap the edges firmly but not too hard to dislodge the dust; and
# Dump it out again.
Repeat the last two steps until the filter is clean. Things that will ruin the expensive filter are tearing the filter paper (dont rub the shopvac against it), and bending the outside metal mesh by tapping too hard.

File:ShopBot VCarve job setup.jpg

2017-06-09T22:18:52Z

John.stechschulte: VCarve Job Setup interface, for loading drawings for

VCarve Job Setup interface, for loading drawings for

ShopBot

2017-06-09T22:07:27Z

John.stechschulte: /* Loading a drawing */ Added image

TinkerMill has a [http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot PRS Alpha], a CNC router that can be used for cutting wood or plastic according to CAD designs. The usual workflow is to create a design in CAD or drawing software (such as Inkscape, CorelDraw, or Adobe Illustrator), load it into VCarve, which plans the cuts and outputs parts files, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to execute on the machine.

[[File:shopbot.jpg|300px|The ShopBot at TinkerMill]]

== Basics ==
The essentials of operating the ShopBot are below. They are here as a reference, and not a substitute for taking the ShopBot class.

=== Approved Materials ===
While the ShopBot is capable of cutting many different types of material, there are some limitations. Below is a list of the approved materials on the TinkerMill ShopBot

* Soft Wood
* Hard Wood
* MDF
* Chipboard
* Plywood
* Plastics (Use caution not to melt!)1
* Garolite (G10)/FR41
* Foam1
* Aluminum (drilling operations and thin sheet metal only)2

1: These materials may have health hazards associated with them. Please use proper techniques to prevent dust being spread in the woodshop. Talk with your instructor for suggestions. 
2: Only with prior approval from the Executive Director (Ron Thomas) or the ShopBot Shop Captain (Matt Stallard). Contact them via Slack or email in advance for approval.

=== Safety ===
The typical and obvious woodshop safety precautions should also be used with the ShopBot: always wear safety glasses; keep your hands away; do not wear baggy sleeves, jewelry, etc. that might get caught. More specific to the ShopBot:
[[File:ShopBot_crush_danger.jpg|150px|right|thumb|Crush danger: keep fingers clear]]

* Do not leave the ShopBot running unattended. Hitting the space bar will pause a cut and allow it to be resumed.
* Beware of the tracks that the x-axis carriage travels on. Do not rest your hands on them. The carriage can move quickly and crush fingers.
* Be sure your work is securely mounted on the table in all three dimensions (see [[#Securing your work|Securing your work]]).
* Use adequate tabs for any profile cuts. Although there's no one tab size that works for any project, bigger tabs are always safer.

=== Starting the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_lockbox.jpg|150px|thumb|left|Lockbox for key to ShopBot power switch]]

Open the lockbox using the code provided in the ShopBot class, and unlock the power switch. It's recommended that you immediately return the key and lock the lockbox, and just leave the padlock open while you are using the ShopBot.

If the computer is not logged in, the password is written on top of the tower. On the computer, start the ShopBot 3 program. Make sure all the emergency stops are not pushed. When the software starts up, you will need to push the blue reset button.

Datum the X and Y axes by pressing the 'Home X,Y Axes' button on the control window. This will zero the X and Y axes to the bed.

=== Warming up the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_temp_check.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Testing the bearing temperature]]
It is important to warm up the ShopBot before use, to protect an important (and expensive) bearing. To warm it up, start the spindle and leave it spinning for at least 20-30 minutes. A reasonable workflow is to start the spindle when you first start up the machine, and then let it go while you secure your work.

Set the RPM to 8,000 to start. Then increase to 12,000 after about 10 minutes. 'Spindle RPM Control' is under 'Tools' on the command console.

To start the spindle, open the keypad control (hit K), and then toggle '''Output 1''' on the Position (red) pane. Then, press the green '''Start''' button on the remote.

There is an IR laser thermometer in the drawers next to the computer. Use it to measure the temperature of the wide black ring at the bottom of the router, just above the plexiglass. Ideally the temperature should reach 85F, but this may be difficult in the winter.

=== Securing your work ===
[[File:ShopBot_securing_work.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Securing work. The wedges shown have a slightly wrong angle; this image only for illustration.]]
It is important to secure your work to the ShopBot table in all three dimensions, so that it cannot slide, lift, or spin. There are several ways to do this:
* Secure it to the spoilboard with screws. Be sure you use enough and that they sufficiently extend into the ShopBot table (about 1/4").
* If you cannot screw into your work, you can wedge it in place horizontally and clamp it down vertically, as show in the image to the left. (TODO: fix the wedges and take a new photo.)
It is also important that any pieces that may be cut free remain secure.

=== Changing bits ===
[[File:ShopBot_bit_installation.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Installing a bit. The wrench arrangement shown will tighten when squeezed.]]
'''Safety note:''' be sure to close the keypad control before changing the bit. This ensures that it takes more than a single button press to start the tool.

Snap the appropriately-sized collet into the collet nut. Before inserting the bit, align it with the ShopBot spindle and screw it in a few turns. Then, insert the bit and hold it while you hand-tighten the nut. Be sure the flutes are entirely exposed, so the collet has full contact with the bit (and no empty space). Carefully tighten the nut with the two wrenches. It's easiest to align the wrenches so they can just be squeezed together, although it takes some mental acrobatics to apply the right-hand rule upside-down and with a pair of wrenches.

=== Zeroing ===

Manually zero the X and Y axis to the origin of you material using the keypad and the Zero Axis button.

'''NOTE: '''If using the X&Y zero of the machine, make sure that your tool path does not cut into the wooden blocks on the board (ie the cutter goes slightly into the negative in the X or Y direction). These are zeroed and squared to the bed. If you damage these, you will be responsible for replacement and re-planing of the damaged blocks. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Connect the Z zeroing plate to the connector on the Z axis. Test the Z zeroing plate's continuity by tapping the bottom of the bit to the plate. Input 1 should light up indicating proper continuity. Make sure that the plate is clean and will not shift position during the routine.

'''IMPORTANT!''' You should always zero to the bed when cutting through material. Make sure that your V carve file is set up with the Z zero at the bottom of your material. If you fail to zero this properly and end up cutting into the spoil board, you will be responsible for re-planing or replacement of the spoil board. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Proceed to zero the Z axis using the 'Z zero' button on the control window.

=== Loading and running cuts ===

Once ready to run your tool path, click on 'File>PART FILE LOAD' and select the tool path you wish to run.

Ensure that you have the right file loaded, and press the green "Start" button on the control window. This will prompt you to start the spindle by manually pressing the green start button on the control pendant. Make sure that you press the start button on the control pendant before clicking 'OK' on the spindle start prompt. If 'OK' is pressed before the spindle is running, the gantry will begin moving and can break your bit and damage the machine.

Stay with the machine as it is running and keep an eye out for anything that does not seem right. Stop the machine if something does not seem right and investigate the cause.

== VCarve and planning ShopBot cuts ==
So you have a beautiful drawing of your part, and you have a ShopBot, which can move a tool around in 3-dimensional space. How can you put the two together to cut your part out? The task of planning toolpaths--where the bit is going to move, and at what speed--is usually accomplished using [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]. A trial edition is sufficient for planning cuts, and then you can save your work and load it on the full version at TinkerMill to calculate and export toolpaths, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to be executed. TinkerMill has a MakerSpace license for VCarve Pro, which allows members to activate a home installation of VCarve as clients. The activation key is provided to those taking the ShopBot class.

=== Loading a drawing ===

VCarve can read several drawing formats, including <code>.ai</code> and <code>.dxf</code> files. Choose "File > Open" and select the file. This example is done with <code>Made at TinkerMill v1.ai</code>. The Job Setup interface will appear. This is where you can adjust the size of the work, and define where the axes zeros will be. ''Tip: By default, the default work dimensions are a bounding box on the design. If you want the drawing centered on a slightly larger workpiece, input the new dimensions in the Job Size field, and then check and uncheck the "Scale design with job size" box.''

[[File:ShopBot_VCarve_job_setup.jpg|300px|thumb|left|The Job Setup interface. Set the size and zero positions of your work.]]

Setting zeros is an important step, and you must be careful that the zero position you choose on the design matches the zeros you set on the machine when you go to cut. Zeroing to the bottom of the workpiece is a safe choice, because you can then zero the machine to the bed, and know that you won't cut through it. Note, however, that your choices here are not final--you can change the zero settings later.

=== Planning cuts ===

==== Profile ====

==== Pocket ====

=== Speeds and Feeds Table ===

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Wood
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|rowspan="2"| MDF
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|4-5
|0.125"
|Pretty clean finish (Matt S)
|-
|1/2"
|2 Flute
|V Carve
|18,000
|3-4
|0.125"
|Need to test this more (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2-3
|0.125"
|Not sure if the best feed and speed, some tearout (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Compression
|18,000
|2.5
|0.75"
|Acceptable cut, could potentially use some tuning. (Gordon R)
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Plastics
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|}

=== Exporting toolpaths ===

ShopBot

2017-06-09T22:03:01Z

John.stechschulte: /* Loading a drawing */ Formatting

TinkerMill has a [http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot PRS Alpha], a CNC router that can be used for cutting wood or plastic according to CAD designs. The usual workflow is to create a design in CAD or drawing software (such as Inkscape, CorelDraw, or Adobe Illustrator), load it into VCarve, which plans the cuts and outputs parts files, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to execute on the machine.

[[File:shopbot.jpg|300px|The ShopBot at TinkerMill]]

== Basics ==
The essentials of operating the ShopBot are below. They are here as a reference, and not a substitute for taking the ShopBot class.

=== Approved Materials ===
While the ShopBot is capable of cutting many different types of material, there are some limitations. Below is a list of the approved materials on the TinkerMill ShopBot

* Soft Wood
* Hard Wood
* MDF
* Chipboard
* Plywood
* Plastics (Use caution not to melt!)1
* Garolite (G10)/FR41
* Foam1
* Aluminum (drilling operations and thin sheet metal only)2

1: These materials may have health hazards associated with them. Please use proper techniques to prevent dust being spread in the woodshop. Talk with your instructor for suggestions. 
2: Only with prior approval from the Executive Director (Ron Thomas) or the ShopBot Shop Captain (Matt Stallard). Contact them via Slack or email in advance for approval.

=== Safety ===
The typical and obvious woodshop safety precautions should also be used with the ShopBot: always wear safety glasses; keep your hands away; do not wear baggy sleeves, jewelry, etc. that might get caught. More specific to the ShopBot:
[[File:ShopBot_crush_danger.jpg|150px|right|thumb|Crush danger: keep fingers clear]]

* Do not leave the ShopBot running unattended. Hitting the space bar will pause a cut and allow it to be resumed.
* Beware of the tracks that the x-axis carriage travels on. Do not rest your hands on them. The carriage can move quickly and crush fingers.
* Be sure your work is securely mounted on the table in all three dimensions (see [[#Securing your work|Securing your work]]).
* Use adequate tabs for any profile cuts. Although there's no one tab size that works for any project, bigger tabs are always safer.

=== Starting the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_lockbox.jpg|150px|thumb|left|Lockbox for key to ShopBot power switch]]

Open the lockbox using the code provided in the ShopBot class, and unlock the power switch. It's recommended that you immediately return the key and lock the lockbox, and just leave the padlock open while you are using the ShopBot.

If the computer is not logged in, the password is written on top of the tower. On the computer, start the ShopBot 3 program. Make sure all the emergency stops are not pushed. When the software starts up, you will need to push the blue reset button.

Datum the X and Y axes by pressing the 'Home X,Y Axes' button on the control window. This will zero the X and Y axes to the bed.

=== Warming up the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_temp_check.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Testing the bearing temperature]]
It is important to warm up the ShopBot before use, to protect an important (and expensive) bearing. To warm it up, start the spindle and leave it spinning for at least 20-30 minutes. A reasonable workflow is to start the spindle when you first start up the machine, and then let it go while you secure your work.

Set the RPM to 8,000 to start. Then increase to 12,000 after about 10 minutes. 'Spindle RPM Control' is under 'Tools' on the command console.

To start the spindle, open the keypad control (hit K), and then toggle '''Output 1''' on the Position (red) pane. Then, press the green '''Start''' button on the remote.

There is an IR laser thermometer in the drawers next to the computer. Use it to measure the temperature of the wide black ring at the bottom of the router, just above the plexiglass. Ideally the temperature should reach 85F, but this may be difficult in the winter.

=== Securing your work ===
[[File:ShopBot_securing_work.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Securing work. The wedges shown have a slightly wrong angle; this image only for illustration.]]
It is important to secure your work to the ShopBot table in all three dimensions, so that it cannot slide, lift, or spin. There are several ways to do this:
* Secure it to the spoilboard with screws. Be sure you use enough and that they sufficiently extend into the ShopBot table (about 1/4").
* If you cannot screw into your work, you can wedge it in place horizontally and clamp it down vertically, as show in the image to the left. (TODO: fix the wedges and take a new photo.)
It is also important that any pieces that may be cut free remain secure.

=== Changing bits ===
[[File:ShopBot_bit_installation.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Installing a bit. The wrench arrangement shown will tighten when squeezed.]]
'''Safety note:''' be sure to close the keypad control before changing the bit. This ensures that it takes more than a single button press to start the tool.

Snap the appropriately-sized collet into the collet nut. Before inserting the bit, align it with the ShopBot spindle and screw it in a few turns. Then, insert the bit and hold it while you hand-tighten the nut. Be sure the flutes are entirely exposed, so the collet has full contact with the bit (and no empty space). Carefully tighten the nut with the two wrenches. It's easiest to align the wrenches so they can just be squeezed together, although it takes some mental acrobatics to apply the right-hand rule upside-down and with a pair of wrenches.

=== Zeroing ===

Manually zero the X and Y axis to the origin of you material using the keypad and the Zero Axis button.

'''NOTE: '''If using the X&Y zero of the machine, make sure that your tool path does not cut into the wooden blocks on the board (ie the cutter goes slightly into the negative in the X or Y direction). These are zeroed and squared to the bed. If you damage these, you will be responsible for replacement and re-planing of the damaged blocks. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Connect the Z zeroing plate to the connector on the Z axis. Test the Z zeroing plate's continuity by tapping the bottom of the bit to the plate. Input 1 should light up indicating proper continuity. Make sure that the plate is clean and will not shift position during the routine.

'''IMPORTANT!''' You should always zero to the bed when cutting through material. Make sure that your V carve file is set up with the Z zero at the bottom of your material. If you fail to zero this properly and end up cutting into the spoil board, you will be responsible for re-planing or replacement of the spoil board. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Proceed to zero the Z axis using the 'Z zero' button on the control window.

=== Loading and running cuts ===

Once ready to run your tool path, click on 'File>PART FILE LOAD' and select the tool path you wish to run.

Ensure that you have the right file loaded, and press the green "Start" button on the control window. This will prompt you to start the spindle by manually pressing the green start button on the control pendant. Make sure that you press the start button on the control pendant before clicking 'OK' on the spindle start prompt. If 'OK' is pressed before the spindle is running, the gantry will begin moving and can break your bit and damage the machine.

Stay with the machine as it is running and keep an eye out for anything that does not seem right. Stop the machine if something does not seem right and investigate the cause.

== VCarve and planning ShopBot cuts ==
So you have a beautiful drawing of your part, and you have a ShopBot, which can move a tool around in 3-dimensional space. How can you put the two together to cut your part out? The task of planning toolpaths--where the bit is going to move, and at what speed--is usually accomplished using [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]. A trial edition is sufficient for planning cuts, and then you can save your work and load it on the full version at TinkerMill to calculate and export toolpaths, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to be executed. TinkerMill has a MakerSpace license for VCarve Pro, which allows members to activate a home installation of VCarve as clients. The activation key is provided to those taking the ShopBot class.

=== Loading a drawing ===

VCarve can read several drawing formats, including <code>.ai</code> and <code>.dxf</code> files. Choose "File > Open" and select the file. This example is done with <code>Made at TinkerMill v1.ai</code>. The Job Setup interface will appear. This is where you can adjust the size of the work, and define where the axes zeros will be. ''Tip: By default, the default work dimensions are a bounding box on the design. If you want the drawing centered on a slightly larger workpiece, input the new dimensions in the Job Size field, and then check and uncheck the "Scale design with job size" box.''

Setting zeros is an important step, and you must be careful that the zero position you choose on the design matches the zeros you set on the machine when you go to cut. Zeroing to the bottom of the workpiece is a safe choice, because you can then zero the machine to the bed, and know that you won't cut through it. Note, however, that your choices here are not final--you can change the zero settings later.

=== Planning cuts ===

==== Profile ====

==== Pocket ====

=== Speeds and Feeds Table ===

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Wood
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|rowspan="2"| MDF
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|4-5
|0.125"
|Pretty clean finish (Matt S)
|-
|1/2"
|2 Flute
|V Carve
|18,000
|3-4
|0.125"
|Need to test this more (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2-3
|0.125"
|Not sure if the best feed and speed, some tearout (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Compression
|18,000
|2.5
|0.75"
|Acceptable cut, could potentially use some tuning. (Gordon R)
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Plastics
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|}

=== Exporting toolpaths ===

ShopBot

2017-06-09T22:01:51Z

John.stechschulte: /* Loading a drawing */ Wrote section

TinkerMill has a [http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot PRS Alpha], a CNC router that can be used for cutting wood or plastic according to CAD designs. The usual workflow is to create a design in CAD or drawing software (such as Inkscape, CorelDraw, or Adobe Illustrator), load it into VCarve, which plans the cuts and outputs parts files, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to execute on the machine.

[[File:shopbot.jpg|300px|The ShopBot at TinkerMill]]

== Basics ==
The essentials of operating the ShopBot are below. They are here as a reference, and not a substitute for taking the ShopBot class.

=== Approved Materials ===
While the ShopBot is capable of cutting many different types of material, there are some limitations. Below is a list of the approved materials on the TinkerMill ShopBot

* Soft Wood
* Hard Wood
* MDF
* Chipboard
* Plywood
* Plastics (Use caution not to melt!)1
* Garolite (G10)/FR41
* Foam1
* Aluminum (drilling operations and thin sheet metal only)2

1: These materials may have health hazards associated with them. Please use proper techniques to prevent dust being spread in the woodshop. Talk with your instructor for suggestions. 
2: Only with prior approval from the Executive Director (Ron Thomas) or the ShopBot Shop Captain (Matt Stallard). Contact them via Slack or email in advance for approval.

=== Safety ===
The typical and obvious woodshop safety precautions should also be used with the ShopBot: always wear safety glasses; keep your hands away; do not wear baggy sleeves, jewelry, etc. that might get caught. More specific to the ShopBot:
[[File:ShopBot_crush_danger.jpg|150px|right|thumb|Crush danger: keep fingers clear]]

* Do not leave the ShopBot running unattended. Hitting the space bar will pause a cut and allow it to be resumed.
* Beware of the tracks that the x-axis carriage travels on. Do not rest your hands on them. The carriage can move quickly and crush fingers.
* Be sure your work is securely mounted on the table in all three dimensions (see [[#Securing your work|Securing your work]]).
* Use adequate tabs for any profile cuts. Although there's no one tab size that works for any project, bigger tabs are always safer.

=== Starting the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_lockbox.jpg|150px|thumb|left|Lockbox for key to ShopBot power switch]]

Open the lockbox using the code provided in the ShopBot class, and unlock the power switch. It's recommended that you immediately return the key and lock the lockbox, and just leave the padlock open while you are using the ShopBot.

If the computer is not logged in, the password is written on top of the tower. On the computer, start the ShopBot 3 program. Make sure all the emergency stops are not pushed. When the software starts up, you will need to push the blue reset button.

Datum the X and Y axes by pressing the 'Home X,Y Axes' button on the control window. This will zero the X and Y axes to the bed.

=== Warming up the ShopBot ===
[[File:ShopBot_temp_check.jpg|150px|thumb|right|Testing the bearing temperature]]
It is important to warm up the ShopBot before use, to protect an important (and expensive) bearing. To warm it up, start the spindle and leave it spinning for at least 20-30 minutes. A reasonable workflow is to start the spindle when you first start up the machine, and then let it go while you secure your work.

Set the RPM to 8,000 to start. Then increase to 12,000 after about 10 minutes. 'Spindle RPM Control' is under 'Tools' on the command console.

To start the spindle, open the keypad control (hit K), and then toggle '''Output 1''' on the Position (red) pane. Then, press the green '''Start''' button on the remote.

There is an IR laser thermometer in the drawers next to the computer. Use it to measure the temperature of the wide black ring at the bottom of the router, just above the plexiglass. Ideally the temperature should reach 85F, but this may be difficult in the winter.

=== Securing your work ===
[[File:ShopBot_securing_work.jpg|300px|thumb|left|Securing work. The wedges shown have a slightly wrong angle; this image only for illustration.]]
It is important to secure your work to the ShopBot table in all three dimensions, so that it cannot slide, lift, or spin. There are several ways to do this:
* Secure it to the spoilboard with screws. Be sure you use enough and that they sufficiently extend into the ShopBot table (about 1/4").
* If you cannot screw into your work, you can wedge it in place horizontally and clamp it down vertically, as show in the image to the left. (TODO: fix the wedges and take a new photo.)
It is also important that any pieces that may be cut free remain secure.

=== Changing bits ===
[[File:ShopBot_bit_installation.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Installing a bit. The wrench arrangement shown will tighten when squeezed.]]
'''Safety note:''' be sure to close the keypad control before changing the bit. This ensures that it takes more than a single button press to start the tool.

Snap the appropriately-sized collet into the collet nut. Before inserting the bit, align it with the ShopBot spindle and screw it in a few turns. Then, insert the bit and hold it while you hand-tighten the nut. Be sure the flutes are entirely exposed, so the collet has full contact with the bit (and no empty space). Carefully tighten the nut with the two wrenches. It's easiest to align the wrenches so they can just be squeezed together, although it takes some mental acrobatics to apply the right-hand rule upside-down and with a pair of wrenches.

=== Zeroing ===

Manually zero the X and Y axis to the origin of you material using the keypad and the Zero Axis button.

'''NOTE: '''If using the X&Y zero of the machine, make sure that your tool path does not cut into the wooden blocks on the board (ie the cutter goes slightly into the negative in the X or Y direction). These are zeroed and squared to the bed. If you damage these, you will be responsible for replacement and re-planing of the damaged blocks. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Connect the Z zeroing plate to the connector on the Z axis. Test the Z zeroing plate's continuity by tapping the bottom of the bit to the plate. Input 1 should light up indicating proper continuity. Make sure that the plate is clean and will not shift position during the routine.

'''IMPORTANT!''' You should always zero to the bed when cutting through material. Make sure that your V carve file is set up with the Z zero at the bottom of your material. If you fail to zero this properly and end up cutting into the spoil board, you will be responsible for re-planing or replacement of the spoil board. Report this to the shop captain if this occurs.

Proceed to zero the Z axis using the 'Z zero' button on the control window.

=== Loading and running cuts ===

Once ready to run your tool path, click on 'File>PART FILE LOAD' and select the tool path you wish to run.

Ensure that you have the right file loaded, and press the green "Start" button on the control window. This will prompt you to start the spindle by manually pressing the green start button on the control pendant. Make sure that you press the start button on the control pendant before clicking 'OK' on the spindle start prompt. If 'OK' is pressed before the spindle is running, the gantry will begin moving and can break your bit and damage the machine.

Stay with the machine as it is running and keep an eye out for anything that does not seem right. Stop the machine if something does not seem right and investigate the cause.

== VCarve and planning ShopBot cuts ==
So you have a beautiful drawing of your part, and you have a ShopBot, which can move a tool around in 3-dimensional space. How can you put the two together to cut your part out? The task of planning toolpaths--where the bit is going to move, and at what speed--is usually accomplished using [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]. A trial edition is sufficient for planning cuts, and then you can save your work and load it on the full version at TinkerMill to calculate and export toolpaths, which are then loaded into the ShopBot software to be executed. TinkerMill has a MakerSpace license for VCarve Pro, which allows members to activate a home installation of VCarve as clients. The activation key is provided to those taking the ShopBot class.

=== Loading a drawing ===

VCarve can read several drawing formats, including `.ai` and `.dxf` files. Choose "File > Open" and select the file. This example is done with `Made at TinkerMill v1.ai`. The Job Setup interface will appear. This is where you can adjust the size of the work, and define where the axes zeros will be. ''Tip: By default, the default work dimensions are a bounding box on the design. If you want the drawing centered on a slightly larger workpiece, input the new dimensions in the Job Size field, and then check and uncheck the "Scale design with job size" box.''

Setting zeros is an important step, and you must be careful that the zero position you choose on the design matches the zeros you set on the machine when you go to cut. Zeroing to the bottom of the workpiece is a safe choice, because you can then zero the machine to the bed, and know that you won't cut through it. Note, however, that your choices here are not final--you can change the zero settings later.

=== Planning cuts ===

==== Profile ====

==== Pocket ====

=== Speeds and Feeds Table ===

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Wood
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|-
|rowspan="2"| MDF
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|4-5
|0.125"
|Pretty clean finish (Matt S)
|-
|1/2"
|2 Flute
|V Carve
|18,000
|3-4
|0.125"
|Need to test this more (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Upcut Straight
|18,000
|2-3
|0.125"
|Not sure if the best feed and speed, some tearout (Matt S)
|-
|rowspan="1"| Birch Plywood
|1/4"
|2 Flute
|Compression
|18,000
|2.5
|0.75"
|Acceptable cut, could potentially use some tuning. (Gordon R)
|}

{| class="wikitable"
!colspan="8"|Plastics
|-
|Material
|colspan="2"|Bit Size and number of Flutes
|Cutter Style
|Speed (RPM)
|Feed Rate (IPS)
|Pass Depth
|Notes
|}

=== Exporting toolpaths ===

File:Woodshop.jpg

2017-06-06T19:05:42Z

John.stechschulte: The wood shop

The wood shop

ShopBot

2016-10-31T04:06:19Z

John.stechschulte: /* Securing your work */

ShopBot

2016-10-31T03:59:49Z

John.stechschulte: /* Securing your work */ Updated reference to the picture

File:ShopBot securing work.jpg

2016-10-31T03:46:18Z

John.stechschulte: Image showing two methods for securing work.

Image showing two methods for securing work.

ShopBot

2016-10-31T03:45:20Z

John.stechschulte: Added photo to securing work section.

ShopBot

2016-10-30T19:15:04Z

John.stechschulte: /* Safety */ link text

ShopBot

2016-10-30T19:14:43Z

John.stechschulte: /* Safety */ Added link to "Securing your work" section

ShopBot

2016-10-30T19:02:00Z

John.stechschulte: /* Changing bits */ Removed disclaimer from old photo.

File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

2016-10-30T19:00:59Z

John.stechschulte: John.stechschulte uploaded a new version of File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

Installing a bit.

File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

2016-10-30T18:58:44Z

John.stechschulte: John.stechschulte uploaded a new version of File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

Installing a bit.

ShopBot

2016-10-30T17:44:44Z

John.stechschulte: /* Starting the ShopBot */ Computer login info.

ShopBot

2016-10-06T03:53:08Z

John.stechschulte: /* Securing your work */ Started section. Needs work.

ShopBot

2016-09-29T20:39:53Z

John.stechschulte: /* Changing bits */ Moving image

ShopBot

2016-09-29T20:39:15Z

John.stechschulte: /* Changing bits */ Update for new image.

File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

2016-09-29T20:37:23Z

John.stechschulte: John.stechschulte uploaded a new version of File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

Installing a bit.

ShopBot

2016-09-29T20:36:28Z

John.stechschulte: /* Changing bits */ Whoa. Image size.

File:ShopBot bit installation.jpg

2016-09-29T20:22:37Z

John.stechschulte: Installing a bit.

Installing a bit.

ShopBot

2016-09-29T20:21:31Z

John.stechschulte: /* Changing bits */ Wrote section

File:ShopBot temp check.jpg

2016-09-27T18:14:44Z

John.stechschulte: Enhanced photo showing how to measure the temperature of the bearing when warming up the ShopBot.

Enhanced photo showing how to measure the temperature of the bearing when warming up the ShopBot.

ShopBot

2016-09-27T18:13:17Z

John.stechschulte: /* Basics */ Wrote section on warming up

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:53:57Z

John.stechschulte: /* Starting the ShopBot */ More image formatting

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:53:38Z

John.stechschulte: /* Starting the ShopBot */ More image formatting

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:53:23Z

John.stechschulte: /* Starting the ShopBot */ More image formatting

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:52:58Z

John.stechschulte: /* Starting the ShopBot */ Changed image formatting

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:52:31Z

John.stechschulte: /* Safety */ Moved image a bit

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:52:02Z

John.stechschulte: /* Safety */ Whoa

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:51:03Z

John.stechschulte: /* Safety */ Image formatting

File:ShopBot crush danger.jpg

2016-09-27T17:49:39Z

John.stechschulte: Photo showing the x-axis tracks, which pose a crush danger.

Photo showing the x-axis tracks, which pose a crush danger.

ShopBot

2016-09-27T17:48:55Z

John.stechschulte: /* Safety */ Added photo link for x-axis crush danger

File:ShopBot lockbox.jpg

2016-09-27T17:42:04Z

John.stechschulte: Lockbox for the key to the ShopBot power switch.

Lockbox for the key to the ShopBot power switch.