TinkerMill Wiki - User contributions [en]

Shop Captains

2017-01-11T05:31:14Z

Chuck:

Each shop at TinkerMill has a Shop Captain responsible for it. Shop Captain duties include:
* Ensuring that the shop is clean, organized, and safe,
* Ensuring that all shop equipment and tools are maintained in good working order,
* Ensuring that all shop equipment and tools are obviously marked with the appropriate [[Color_Coding | shop colors]],
* Ensuring that basic introductory classes are held at least once per month,
* Ensuring that tool certification classes are held at least once per month,
* Maintaining an accurate roster of certifications, certification instructors, and certified members for certification-required tools and equipment,
* Maintaining an adequate stock of consumable shop supplies, and
* Personally attending the monthly Shop Captain/Admin meetings or sending a shop representative.

== List of Shop Captains ==
{| class="wikitable"
! Shop
! Shop Captains
|-
|Art Cabinet || Sarajane Helm
|-
|Blacksmithing || Kamber Sokulsky
|-
|Classroom || '''Lynne Davis'''
|-
|[[Electronics]] || Paul Tiger
|-
|[[ESS_IoT|Internet of Things]] || Keith Hughes
|-
|[[Glassworks|Lampworking]] || Jordan Baumgardner
|-
|[[IT_Infrastructure]] || Greg Fischer, Chris Lindbergh, Bruce Welker
|-
|[[Jewelry and Metalcraft]] || Lynne Davis
|-
|[[Ham Radio]] || Sebastian Wessels
|-
|Machine Shop || Steve Heston
|-
|Maintenance || Ron Thomas
|-
|Pottery || Fara Shimbo
|-
|[[Rapid Prototyping]] || Greg Collins, Pro-Temp: Chuck Westfield
|-
|[[Robotics]] || '''Vacant'''
|-
|Stained Glass || Fara Shimbo
|-
|Sculpture || Diane Goldenstein
|-
|ShopBot || Matt Stallard
|-
|[[Textiles]] || Landis Arnold
|-
|Welding || Ron Thomas, Chuck Westfield
|-
|[[Woodworking|Woodshop]] || Diane Goldenstein, Brian Sanders, Dallas Hendricks, Andrew Cook, Henry Zeeca
|}

Main Page

2016-09-09T00:41:41Z

Chuck: /* General Information */

=== General Information ===
;[[Policies|Policies]]
;[[Teaching_Classes|Teaching Classes]]
;[[Color_Coding|Color Coding - Tools and Shops]]

;[[Online Resources]]

=== Shops at TinkerMill ===
;[[Rapid_Prototyping|Rapid Prototyping]]
;[[Glassworks]]
;[[Jewelry_and_Metalcraft|Jewelry and Metal Craft]]
;[[Robotics]]
;[[Woodworking]]
;[[Textiles]]
;[[Electronics]]
;[[ESS_IoT|ESS/IoT]]

Main Page

2016-09-09T00:41:16Z

Chuck: /* General Information */

=== General Information ===
;[[Policies|Policies]]
;[[Teaching_Classes|Teaching Classes]]
;[[Color_Coding|Color Coding - Tools and Shops]]

;[Online Resources]

=== Shops at TinkerMill ===
;[[Rapid_Prototyping|Rapid Prototyping]]
;[[Glassworks]]
;[[Jewelry_and_Metalcraft|Jewelry and Metal Craft]]
;[[Robotics]]
;[[Woodworking]]
;[[Textiles]]
;[[Electronics]]
;[[ESS_IoT|ESS/IoT]]

Online Resources

2016-09-09T00:40:22Z

Chuck: Guide to Tinkermill Online

How to Access Tinkermill's Google Drive

Category:Rapid Prototyping

2016-08-12T19:27:24Z

Chuck:

TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of rapid prototyping capabilities, including:
*[[3D_Printer]]
*[[Laser_Cutter]]
*[[ShopBot]]


Back to: [[Main Page]]

Category:Rapid Prototyping

2016-08-12T19:27:04Z

Chuck:

TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of rapid prototyping capabilities, including:
*[[3D_Printer]]
*[[Laser_Cutter]]
*[[ShopBot]]


Back to: [[Main Page]]

SawStop

2016-08-12T19:15:25Z

Chuck:

SawStop is the brand name for our [[Table Saw|table saw]].


It is an industrial grade cabinet saw that has a unique safety feature.

The blade carries a small electrical signal. When skin (or wet wood) contacts the blade, the signal changes because the human body is conductive. The change to the signal activates the safety system. An aluminum brake springs into the spinning blade, stopping it in less than 5 milliseconds! The blade’s angular momentum drives it beneath the table, removing the risk of subsequent contact. Power to the motor is shut off.

If this occurs the blade and the break are wasted and replacement currently costs about $200.


== See also ==


[[Table Saw]]


Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

[[Category:Woodshop]]

Table Saw

2016-08-12T19:14:23Z

Chuck:

Requirements:
* Table Saw Certification Class (Post July 2016) or Table Saw Certification (pre July 2016) and [[SawStop]] Update Certification
* RFID badge

Our table saw is now controlled by our [[RFID system]].

The saw requires three-phase power, the outlet is shared between this tool and the [[Shopbot]]. It is easiest to check Meetup and Google Calendar to see if either tool is reserved

==TABLE SAW BASICS - TOOL CERTIFICATION==

If you do not feel comfortable making a cut, ask for help! There are many skilled and knowledgeable members who are eager to share their expertise. If you feel even slightly nervous cutting something please, please ask for help!

Do not wear gloves while operating a table saw. There are several reasons, but loss of tactile sense is probably foremost, while a possible loss of gripping power is also close to the top. And some kinds of gloves are loose enough to present an item for the rotating blade to grab.

Keep the floor in front of the saw free of cut-offs and piled up sawdust. Tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade can really create problems, but even slipping and banging your head against the cast iron table can bring on a bad injury.

Wear proper eye and hearing protection. Eyes need to be protected from damage by projectiles--and no, standard eyeglasses will not do the job. Hearing protection is something every woodworker should start with, and continue. Hearing loss creeps up on you without warning, and often without symptoms, until it's too late to reverse the procedure.

Wear short sleeves, leave the ties at the office, and junk your dangling jewelry. Get rid of other loose fitting clothing while operating a table saw. Any of these items might get caught in the blade and yank you into it before you can react. Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

Avoid any awkward operations. If you feel like a gawky fool doing a cut, then don't do the cut in that manner. This helps you avoid losing your balance and possibly falling into the blade or table.

Use a push stick to cut stock that is 6" or less in width. A hand that isn't close to a blade isn't going to get cut. Generally, a 6” minimum distance to the blade is considered safe, though some recommend 4”.

Use a stop block when you crosscut short lengths. Mount a stop block on the fence--this can be as simple as a clamped on board that stops just before the saw blade, so that cut-off pieces cannot bind between blade and fence.

Position your body so that it is NOT in line with the blade. This keeps sawdust feeding back through the slot of the blade out of your face, and much more important, it keeps you out of the line of most kick-backs.

Never reach behind or over the blade unless it has stopped turning. Sometimes this looks safe. It almost never truly is. This does not mean you should stop pushing your work before it finishes passing through the blade, itself an invitation to kick back (see pushsticks.)

Always disconnect the power before changing the blade or performing any other maintenance operation. I like to drape the plug over my fence rail so I know in an instant the saw's unplugged…or not.

Make sure that the blade has stopped turning before you adjust the table saw. The reasons are obvious. Making adjustments can get hands too close to the blade, and even a slowly spinning blade has a multitude of sharp edges that can do damage. Always make sure that the blade is turning free before you turn on the power: this is especially helpful after you make changes or adjustments. In other words, spin the blade without power a time or two to make sure there are no scraps or tools touching it.

Keep the tabletop smooth and polished. A dirty or rough table requires you to use more force to push the stock through the blade. It may also rust like crazy, further reducing the saw's effectiveness.

Keep the rip fence parallel to the blade so stock doesn't bind on the blade and kick back. Some woodworkers prefer to keep the rear of the fence kicked out (away from the blade) by 1/64". I believe parallel is better, but a friend of mine, with more experience than I, keeps the back of his fence kicked out. Both work.

Use zero clearance inserts. These reduce the chance of slender cuts dropping into the lower part of the blade and making the round trip to speed by your head. They also reduce splintering in cuts.

Never operate a table saw with the throat insert removed. Wood that is fed into a gaping hole can drop down and get caught on the blade. That can't happen if the throat insert is in place.

Do not make free-hand cuts on a table saw. Guide the stock through the blade using the rip fence or the miter gauge.

Keep the blade guards, splitters and anti-kickback fingers in place and operating freely. Check the action of these items before starting work.

Work should be released only when it is past the blade. Releasing work too early is an invitation to kickback as it is possible for the blade to grab the part that has not yet gone by.

Whenever the stock is lifted or tilted above the surface of the table, the saw is able to shake the stock. If this happens, and you lose your grip, hit the stop button because losing your grip on the work means it probably is going to come back at you.

Check stock before cutting. Look for nails, knots, screws, or stones. Such fun items may become projectiles. If they hit, they smart, and may cause serious injury as well. Also, damage to carbide tipped blades can be major, even if all it does is scare you.

The fence and the miter gauge are not meant to be used together. Under some circumstances, you can use both (see above on stop blocks), but the fence then needs an auxiliary fence added. That fence or stop must end just before the saw blade.

Don't mess with the fence adjustment when the saw is running. And a general addition, which goes for all tools and all techniques in a wood shop: if a procedure feels unsafe, it probably is, so don't use it. Find another way to do what has to be done.

Use supports or get help for large or long pieces of stock. If you have someone help you they should only support the wood, not push or pull. Bowed stock can be ripped with a straight edge attached to the stock.
Jigs and fixtures exist for this purpose.
Do not stand directly behind the area between the rip fence and the blade. If there is kick back this is where the material will fly out of the table saw.

Thin stock can lift off the table surface as the blade enters the cut. Good downward pressure and push blocks help with this.

Blade height should be 1/4-3/8" above the top surface. Some materials cut better if more blade is exposed. Maximum blade height is the depth of the gullet above the surface of the stock. Use the minimum height required to get a good quality cut.

Warped stock should only be ripped on a band saw.

From woodcraft.com
== See also ==
[[SawStop]]

[[Category:Woodshop]]

Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Category:Woodshop

2016-08-12T19:12:32Z

Chuck:

Articles for the Woodshop


Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Category:Woodshop

2016-08-12T19:12:06Z

Chuck: Created page with "Articles for the Woodshop"

Articles for the Woodshop

SawStop

2016-08-12T19:11:00Z

Chuck:

SawStop is the brand name for our [[Table Saw|table saw]].


It is an industrial grade cabinet saw that has a unique safety feature.

The blade carries a small electrical signal. When skin (or wet wood) contacts the blade, the signal changes because the human body is conductive. The change to the signal activates the safety system. An aluminum brake springs into the spinning blade, stopping it in less than 5 milliseconds! The blade’s angular momentum drives it beneath the table, removing the risk of subsequent contact. Power to the motor is shut off.

If this occurs the blade and the break are wasted and replacement currently costs about $200.

[[Category:Woodshop]]

Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

SawStop

2016-08-12T19:10:11Z

Chuck: Creation

SawStop is the brand name for our [[table saw]].


It is an industrial grade cabinet saw that has a unique safety feature.

The blade carries a small electrical signal. When skin (or wet wood) contacts the blade, the signal changes because the human body is conductive. The change to the signal activates the safety system. An aluminum brake springs into the spinning blade, stopping it in less than 5 milliseconds! The blade’s angular momentum drives it beneath the table, removing the risk of subsequent contact. Power to the motor is shut off.

If this occurs the blade and the break are wasted and replacement currently costs about $200.

[[Category:Woodshop]]

Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Table Saw

2016-08-12T19:02:22Z

Chuck: added certification & info

Requirements:
* Table Saw Certification Class (Post July 2016) or Table Saw Certification (pre July 2016) and [[SawStop]] Update Certification
* RFID badge

Our table saw is now controlled by our [[RFID system]].

The saw requires three-phase power, the outlet is shared between this tool and the [[Shopbot]]. It is easiest to check Meetup and Google Calendar to see if either tool is reserved

==TABLE SAW BASICS - TOOL CERTIFICATION==

If you do not feel comfortable making a cut, ask for help! There are many skilled and knowledgeable members who are eager to share their expertise. If you feel even slightly nervous cutting something please, please ask for help!

Do not wear gloves while operating a table saw. There are several reasons, but loss of tactile sense is probably foremost, while a possible loss of gripping power is also close to the top. And some kinds of gloves are loose enough to present an item for the rotating blade to grab.

Keep the floor in front of the saw free of cut-offs and piled up sawdust. Tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade can really create problems, but even slipping and banging your head against the cast iron table can bring on a bad injury.

Wear proper eye and hearing protection. Eyes need to be protected from damage by projectiles--and no, standard eyeglasses will not do the job. Hearing protection is something every woodworker should start with, and continue. Hearing loss creeps up on you without warning, and often without symptoms, until it's too late to reverse the procedure.

Wear short sleeves, leave the ties at the office, and junk your dangling jewelry. Get rid of other loose fitting clothing while operating a table saw. Any of these items might get caught in the blade and yank you into it before you can react. Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

Avoid any awkward operations. If you feel like a gawky fool doing a cut, then don't do the cut in that manner. This helps you avoid losing your balance and possibly falling into the blade or table.

Use a push stick to cut stock that is 6" or less in width. A hand that isn't close to a blade isn't going to get cut. Generally, a 6” minimum distance to the blade is considered safe, though some recommend 4”.

Use a stop block when you crosscut short lengths. Mount a stop block on the fence--this can be as simple as a clamped on board that stops just before the saw blade, so that cut-off pieces cannot bind between blade and fence.

Position your body so that it is NOT in line with the blade. This keeps sawdust feeding back through the slot of the blade out of your face, and much more important, it keeps you out of the line of most kick-backs.

Never reach behind or over the blade unless it has stopped turning. Sometimes this looks safe. It almost never truly is. This does not mean you should stop pushing your work before it finishes passing through the blade, itself an invitation to kick back (see pushsticks.)

Always disconnect the power before changing the blade or performing any other maintenance operation. I like to drape the plug over my fence rail so I know in an instant the saw's unplugged…or not.

Make sure that the blade has stopped turning before you adjust the table saw. The reasons are obvious. Making adjustments can get hands too close to the blade, and even a slowly spinning blade has a multitude of sharp edges that can do damage. Always make sure that the blade is turning free before you turn on the power: this is especially helpful after you make changes or adjustments. In other words, spin the blade without power a time or two to make sure there are no scraps or tools touching it.

Keep the tabletop smooth and polished. A dirty or rough table requires you to use more force to push the stock through the blade. It may also rust like crazy, further reducing the saw's effectiveness.

Keep the rip fence parallel to the blade so stock doesn't bind on the blade and kick back. Some woodworkers prefer to keep the rear of the fence kicked out (away from the blade) by 1/64". I believe parallel is better, but a friend of mine, with more experience than I, keeps the back of his fence kicked out. Both work.

Use zero clearance inserts. These reduce the chance of slender cuts dropping into the lower part of the blade and making the round trip to speed by your head. They also reduce splintering in cuts.

Never operate a table saw with the throat insert removed. Wood that is fed into a gaping hole can drop down and get caught on the blade. That can't happen if the throat insert is in place.

Do not make free-hand cuts on a table saw. Guide the stock through the blade using the rip fence or the miter gauge.

Keep the blade guards, splitters and anti-kickback fingers in place and operating freely. Check the action of these items before starting work.

Work should be released only when it is past the blade. Releasing work too early is an invitation to kickback as it is possible for the blade to grab the part that has not yet gone by.

Whenever the stock is lifted or tilted above the surface of the table, the saw is able to shake the stock. If this happens, and you lose your grip, hit the stop button because losing your grip on the work means it probably is going to come back at you.

Check stock before cutting. Look for nails, knots, screws, or stones. Such fun items may become projectiles. If they hit, they smart, and may cause serious injury as well. Also, damage to carbide tipped blades can be major, even if all it does is scare you.

The fence and the miter gauge are not meant to be used together. Under some circumstances, you can use both (see above on stop blocks), but the fence then needs an auxiliary fence added. That fence or stop must end just before the saw blade.

Don't mess with the fence adjustment when the saw is running. And a general addition, which goes for all tools and all techniques in a wood shop: if a procedure feels unsafe, it probably is, so don't use it. Find another way to do what has to be done.

Use supports or get help for large or long pieces of stock. If you have someone help you they should only support the wood, not push or pull. Bowed stock can be ripped with a straight edge attached to the stock.
Jigs and fixtures exist for this purpose.
Do not stand directly behind the area between the rip fence and the blade. If there is kick back this is where the material will fly out of the table saw.

Thin stock can lift off the table surface as the blade enters the cut. Good downward pressure and push blocks help with this.

Blade height should be 1/4-3/8" above the top surface. Some materials cut better if more blade is exposed. Maximum blade height is the depth of the gullet above the surface of the stock. Use the minimum height required to get a good quality cut.

Warped stock should only be ripped on a band saw.

From woodcraft.com

[[Category:Woodshop]]

Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Woodworking

2016-08-12T18:55:12Z

Chuck: Proper landing page for Woodshop

Tinkermill has a full woodworking shop. We communicate using Slack in #woodshop for tool repair status and event coordination.

Here is a non comprehensive list of tools
* [[Hand Tools]]
* [[Hand Power Tools]]
* [[Table Saw]] aka the [[SawStop]]
* [[Planer]]
* [[Joiner]]
* [[Miter (Chop) Saw ]]
* [[Belt Sander]]
* [[Lathe]]
* [[Band Saw]]
* [[Table Router]]
* [[Drill Press]]

[[Category:Woodshop]]


Back to: [[Main Page]]

Table Saw

2016-08-12T18:39:14Z

Chuck:

==TABLE SAW BASICS - TOOL CERTIFICATION==

If you do not feel comfortable making a cut, ask for help! There are many skilled and knowledgeable members who are eager to share their expertise. If you feel even slightly nervous cutting something please, please ask for help!

Do not wear gloves while operating a table saw. There are several reasons, but loss of tactile sense is probably foremost, while a possible loss of gripping power is also close to the top. And some kinds of gloves are loose enough to present an item for the rotating blade to grab.

Keep the floor in front of the saw free of cut-offs and piled up sawdust. Tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade can really create problems, but even slipping and banging your head against the cast iron table can bring on a bad injury.

Wear proper eye and hearing protection. Eyes need to be protected from damage by projectiles--and no, standard eyeglasses will not do the job. Hearing protection is something every woodworker should start with, and continue. Hearing loss creeps up on you without warning, and often without symptoms, until it's too late to reverse the procedure.

Wear short sleeves, leave the ties at the office, and junk your dangling jewelry. Get rid of other loose fitting clothing while operating a table saw. Any of these items might get caught in the blade and yank you into it before you can react. Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.

Avoid any awkward operations. If you feel like a gawky fool doing a cut, then don't do the cut in that manner. This helps you avoid losing your balance and possibly falling into the blade or table.

Use a push stick to cut stock that is 6" or less in width. A hand that isn't close to a blade isn't going to get cut. Generally, a 6” minimum distance to the blade is considered safe, though some recommend 4”.

Use a stop block when you crosscut short lengths. Mount a stop block on the fence--this can be as simple as a clamped on board that stops just before the saw blade, so that cut-off pieces cannot bind between blade and fence.

Position your body so that it is NOT in line with the blade. This keeps sawdust feeding back through the slot of the blade out of your face, and much more important, it keeps you out of the line of most kick-backs.

Never reach behind or over the blade unless it has stopped turning. Sometimes this looks safe. It almost never truly is. This does not mean you should stop pushing your work before it finishes passing through the blade, itself an invitation to kick back (see pushsticks.)

Always disconnect the power before changing the blade or performing any other maintenance operation. I like to drape the plug over my fence rail so I know in an instant the saw's unplugged…or not.

Make sure that the blade has stopped turning before you adjust the table saw. The reasons are obvious. Making adjustments can get hands too close to the blade, and even a slowly spinning blade has a multitude of sharp edges that can do damage. Always make sure that the blade is turning free before you turn on the power: this is especially helpful after you make changes or adjustments. In other words, spin the blade without power a time or two to make sure there are no scraps or tools touching it.

Keep the tabletop smooth and polished. A dirty or rough table requires you to use more force to push the stock through the blade. It may also rust like crazy, further reducing the saw's effectiveness.

Keep the rip fence parallel to the blade so stock doesn't bind on the blade and kick back. Some woodworkers prefer to keep the rear of the fence kicked out (away from the blade) by 1/64". I believe parallel is better, but a friend of mine, with more experience than I, keeps the back of his fence kicked out. Both work.

Use zero clearance inserts. These reduce the chance of slender cuts dropping into the lower part of the blade and making the round trip to speed by your head. They also reduce splintering in cuts.

Never operate a table saw with the throat insert removed. Wood that is fed into a gaping hole can drop down and get caught on the blade. That can't happen if the throat insert is in place.

Do not make free-hand cuts on a table saw. Guide the stock through the blade using the rip fence or the miter gauge.

Keep the blade guards, splitters and anti-kickback fingers in place and operating freely. Check the action of these items before starting work.

Work should be released only when it is past the blade. Releasing work too early is an invitation to kickback as it is possible for the blade to grab the part that has not yet gone by.

Whenever the stock is lifted or tilted above the surface of the table, the saw is able to shake the stock. If this happens, and you lose your grip, hit the stop button because losing your grip on the work means it probably is going to come back at you.

Check stock before cutting. Look for nails, knots, screws, or stones. Such fun items may become projectiles. If they hit, they smart, and may cause serious injury as well. Also, damage to carbide tipped blades can be major, even if all it does is scare you.

The fence and the miter gauge are not meant to be used together. Under some circumstances, you can use both (see above on stop blocks), but the fence then needs an auxiliary fence added. That fence or stop must end just before the saw blade.

Don't mess with the fence adjustment when the saw is running. And a general addition, which goes for all tools and all techniques in a wood shop: if a procedure feels unsafe, it probably is, so don't use it. Find another way to do what has to be done.

Use supports or get help for large or long pieces of stock. If you have someone help you they should only support the wood, not push or pull. Bowed stock can be ripped with a straight edge attached to the stock.
Jigs and fixtures exist for this purpose.
Do not stand directly behind the area between the rip fence and the blade. If there is kick back this is where the material will fly out of the table saw.

Thin stock can lift off the table surface as the blade enters the cut. Good downward pressure and push blocks help with this.

Blade height should be 1/4-3/8" above the top surface. Some materials cut better if more blade is exposed. Maximum blade height is the depth of the gullet above the surface of the stock. Use the minimum height required to get a good quality cut.

Warped stock should only be ripped on a band saw.

From woodcraft.com

[[Category:Woodshop]]

Back to: [[Woodworking]] 
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Table Saw

2016-08-12T18:38:23Z

Chuck: Created Table Saw Page

Woodworking

2016-08-12T18:36:49Z

Chuck:

Woodworking

2016-08-12T18:36:14Z

Chuck: Wood Shop

Woodworking

2016-08-12T18:34:34Z

Chuck: footer

Laser Cutter

2016-08-12T18:32:29Z

Chuck:

====== Specifications ======
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W 
'''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm)
 

===== Parts of the Laser =====
'''X/Y carriage''' - Moves the laser head along the X and Y planes (left to right, toward and away.) 
'''Honeycomb table''' - disperses any reflected laser energy as well as positioning the engraving material within the proper distance from the laser head. 
'''Z axis Bed of Laser''' - Z axis Bed of Laser - The bed of the laser moves up and down to focus the laser. It can be lowered 10 inches under the laser focal lens. 
'''Laser Tube Water Jacket Chiller''' - A pump moves chilled, distilled water through a glass tube around the laser, cooling it. 
'''Compressed Air in''' - Air Assist is compressed air that blows onto the cutting point of the laser. It blows away smoke that would otherwise deposit on the mirrors 
 

===== Machine Safety =====
'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''

'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those setting it needs maintenance, please let someone know!'''

'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''

Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.

The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.

The machine is regularly check and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified Tinkermill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!

Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.

Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine. 
 

===== Fire Safety =====
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly. 
 

===== Material Selection =====
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.

You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/

'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''

'''Approved Materials''' 
Acrylic Plastic 
Plexiglass (PMMA) 
Delrin Plastic 
Kapton High Temperature Tape 
PETG Plastic 
Styrene Plastic 
Styrene Foam (melts very quickly) 
Depron Foam 
EPM Foam (Ethylene propylene rubber) 
Cloths (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton) 
Magnetic sheets 
Paper, Cardboard, Cardstock 
Rubbers (those that are free of chlorine) 
Woods (balsa, birch, poplar, red oak, cherry, holly, etc.) 
Cork
Coroplast
Carbon Fiber Mats/Weave '''that has not had the epoxy applied!''' 
Baltic Birch Plywood 
Back of Mirrors (engrave only) 
Anodized Aluminum (engrave only) 
Powder Coated Metal (engrave only) 
Glass (engrave only) 
Ceramic Tile (engrave only) 
Stone, Marble, Granite (engrave only) 

'''DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE''' 
Polycarbonate (fire hazard) 
Lexan (fire hazard) 
PVC (chlorine) 
Cintra (chlorine) 
Vinyl (chlorine) 
ABS Plastic (fire Hazard, difficult to clean up) 
Pleather / Faux Leather (chlorine) 
Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites (noxious fumes from epoxy) 
Printed Circuit Boards (noxious fumes) 
Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber (noxious fumes) 
HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic (fire hazard) 
Any Material Containing Chlorine 
 

===== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving =====
* The laser cutter software uses DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format
* DXF files should be saved in R14 version
* The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm
* Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF
* DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths
* Make note of your documents size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the LaserCut software
* Closed paths that are put on an Engrave layer in the RabbitLaser software will appear as solid areas of engraving.

====== With Adobe Illustrator ======
* Change the document's units to metric (Edit > Preferences > Units > General)
* All paths should have zero fill. Filled shapes will produce a "Hatch" error in the RabbitLaser software.

====== With Inkscape ======
Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.
===== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving =====
The PhotoGrav software can be used to convert raster images into a format compatable with the RabbitLaser software. This is installed on the computer and can be found locked to the task bar (the sun icon.) 
 

===== Operating the Laser =====
# Turn the laser on with the key. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.
# Press the “XY-0” button to prevent the laser head from leaving the workable space.
# Start the LaserCut software.
# Click “File>Import” to navigate to and select your file.
# Select paths and assign colors to those that will have separate power and speed settings.
# Set the power and speed settings for each layer (color). Please reference the advice power and speed settings sheet that is near the computer.
# Layers will be cut/engraved in order from top to bottom. They can be arranged by pressing the "Up" and "Down" buttons underneath the Layers pallet
# Check the size of your artwork by selecting everything and pressing Ctrl+G. This will show you the selections size (in millimeters) and allows for its adjustment.
# Although not required, it is wise to save the file at this point to the computer or your thumbdrive. This will save the file in a .MOL format that will retain your layers as well as speed and power settings.
# Ensure that the origin, or starting point, of your artwork is set to the upper left corner by clicking on "Laser" > "Set laser origin" and selecting "LEFT-TOP."
## [[File:laser_origin_1.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]
## [[File:laser_origin_2.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]
# The screen on the laser cutter should now display the name of your file
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.
# Use the laser cutter’s up/down, left/right keys to move the head of the laser over your material. If the laser head doesn’t move when you press the buttons try hitting the “ESC” and try again.
# Press the “TEST” button. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file. It is important that you know your origin point before testing or the head of the laser may ignore its limit switches and slam into the side of the machine.
# Press the “Z-0” button to automatically focus the laser. The bed will rise until a limit switch immediately left of the laser head is activated, it will then move back down to the proper focal distance.
# You are ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser.
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!

===== Cleaning and Maintenance =====
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions. 

Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to info@tinkermill.org.

==== Lens Damage Examples ====
[[File:lens_damage_examples.png|Lens Damage Examples]]

==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.
[[File:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png]]

==== Design Resources ====
Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials 
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

Example Projects 
http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm 
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html

Living (or Lattice) Hinges 
http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/
http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm

[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software] 
[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images] 
[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator] 
[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator] 

==== Material Resources ====

Rubber Stamp Materials-
[http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe] 

[[Plastic Vendors]]

'''Birch Plywood''' 
Stan's Hardwood 
617 1st Ave. Longmont, Colorado 80501 
(303) 772-2418 
Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-3, Closed: Sun & Mon 
http://www.longmonthardwood.com/

[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Laser Cutter

2016-08-12T18:30:11Z

Chuck: added navigation footer

====== Specifications ======
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W 
'''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm)
 

===== Parts of the Laser =====
'''X/Y carriage''' - Moves the laser head along the X and Y planes (left to right, toward and away.) 
'''Honeycomb table''' - disperses any reflected laser energy as well as positioning the engraving material within the proper distance from the laser head. 
'''Z axis Bed of Laser''' - Z axis Bed of Laser - The bed of the laser moves up and down to focus the laser. It can be lowered 10 inches under the laser focal lens. 
'''Laser Tube Water Jacket Chiller''' - A pump moves chilled, distilled water through a glass tube around the laser, cooling it. 
'''Compressed Air in''' - Air Assist is compressed air that blows onto the cutting point of the laser. It blows away smoke that would otherwise deposit on the mirrors 
 

===== Machine Safety =====
'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''

'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those setting it needs maintenance, please let someone know!'''

'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''

Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.

The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.

The machine is regularly check and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified Tinkermill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!

Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.

Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine. 
 

===== Fire Safety =====
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly. 
 

===== Material Selection =====
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.

You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/

'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''

'''Approved Materials''' 
Acrylic Plastic 
Plexiglass (PMMA) 
Delrin Plastic 
Kapton High Temperature Tape 
PETG Plastic 
Styrene Plastic 
Styrene Foam (melts very quickly) 
Depron Foam 
EPM Foam (Ethylene propylene rubber) 
Cloths (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton) 
Magnetic sheets 
Paper, Cardboard, Cardstock 
Rubbers (those that are free of chlorine) 
Woods (balsa, birch, poplar, red oak, cherry, holly, etc.) 
Cork
Coroplast
Carbon Fiber Mats/Weave '''that has not had the epoxy applied!''' 
Baltic Birch Plywood 
Back of Mirrors (engrave only) 
Anodized Aluminum (engrave only) 
Powder Coated Metal (engrave only) 
Glass (engrave only) 
Ceramic Tile (engrave only) 
Stone, Marble, Granite (engrave only) 

'''DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE''' 
Polycarbonate (fire hazard) 
Lexan (fire hazard) 
PVC (chlorine) 
Cintra (chlorine) 
Vinyl (chlorine) 
ABS Plastic (fire Hazard, difficult to clean up) 
Pleather / Faux Leather (chlorine) 
Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites (noxious fumes from epoxy) 
Printed Circuit Boards (noxious fumes) 
Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber (noxious fumes) 
HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic (fire hazard) 
Any Material Containing Chlorine 
 

===== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving =====
* The laser cutter software uses DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format
* DXF files should be saved in R14 version
* The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm
* Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF
* DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths
* Make note of your documents size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the LaserCut software
* Closed paths that are put on an Engrave layer in the RabbitLaser software will appear as solid areas of engraving.

====== With Adobe Illustrator ======
* Change the document's units to metric (Edit > Preferences > Units > General)
* All paths should have zero fill. Filled shapes will produce a "Hatch" error in the RabbitLaser software.

====== With Inkscape ======
Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.
===== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving =====
The PhotoGrav software can be used to convert raster images into a format compatable with the RabbitLaser software. This is installed on the computer and can be found locked to the task bar (the sun icon.) 
 

===== Operating the Laser =====
# Turn the laser on with the key. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.
# Press the “XY-0” button to prevent the laser head from leaving the workable space.
# Start the LaserCut software.
# Click “File>Import” to navigate to and select your file.
# Select paths and assign colors to those that will have separate power and speed settings.
# Set the power and speed settings for each layer (color). Please reference the advice power and speed settings sheet that is near the computer.
# Layers will be cut/engraved in order from top to bottom. They can be arranged by pressing the "Up" and "Down" buttons underneath the Layers pallet
# Check the size of your artwork by selecting everything and pressing Ctrl+G. This will show you the selections size (in millimeters) and allows for its adjustment.
# Although not required, it is wise to save the file at this point to the computer or your thumbdrive. This will save the file in a .MOL format that will retain your layers as well as speed and power settings.
# Ensure that the origin, or starting point, of your artwork is set to the upper left corner by clicking on "Laser" > "Set laser origin" and selecting "LEFT-TOP."
## [[File:laser_origin_1.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]
## [[File:laser_origin_2.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]
# The screen on the laser cutter should now display the name of your file
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.
# Use the laser cutter’s up/down, left/right keys to move the head of the laser over your material. If the laser head doesn’t move when you press the buttons try hitting the “ESC” and try again.
# Press the “TEST” button. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file. It is important that you know your origin point before testing or the head of the laser may ignore its limit switches and slam into the side of the machine.
# Press the “Z-0” button to automatically focus the laser. The bed will rise until a limit switch immediately left of the laser head is activated, it will then move back down to the proper focal distance.
# You are ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser.
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!

===== Cleaning and Maintenance =====
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions. 

Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to info@tinkermill.org.

==== Lens Damage Examples ====
[[File:lens_damage_examples.png|Lens Damage Examples]]

==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.
[[File:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png]]

==== Design Resources ====
Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials 
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

Example Projects 
http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm 
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html

Living (or Lattice) Hinges 
http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/
http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm

[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software] 
[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images] 
[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator] 
[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator] 

==== Material Resources ====

Rubber Stamp Materials-
[http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe] 

[[Plastic Vendors]]

'''Birch Plywood''' 
Stan's Hardwood 
617 1st Ave. Longmont, Colorado 80501 
(303) 772-2418 
Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-3, Closed: Sun & Mon 
http://www.longmonthardwood.com/

[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Rapid Prototyping

2016-08-12T18:29:01Z

Chuck: Added definition and footer navigation

Rapid prototyping is a group of techniques used to quickly fabricate a scale model of a physical part or assembly using CAD - CAM (Computer Aided Design - Computer Aided Manufacture) data.

TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of rapid prototyping capabilities, including:
*[[3D_Printer|3D Printers]]
*[[Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]
*[[ShopBot]]

[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Category:Rapid Prototyping

2016-08-12T18:21:46Z

Chuck: Creation

TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of rapid prototyping capabilities, including:
*[[3D_Printer]]
*[[Laser_Cutter]]
*[[ShopBot]]

Plastic Vendors

2016-08-12T18:19:28Z

Chuck: formatting

Here is a list of local vendors for plastic, acryllic, etc.

Colorado Plastics 
2015 500 S. Arthur Ave. 
Louisville, CO, 80027 
1-800-398-9271 or 303-443-9271 
4th Friday Remnant Sale 
http://www.coloradoplastics.com/

Port Plastics 
5150 Havana St 
Denver, CO 80239 
(303) 371-2976 
Open 8-5 M-F 
http://portplastics.com

Plasticare 
4211 South Natches Court, Unit K 
Englewood, Colorado 80110 
(303) 781-1171 
Open Monday- Friday 7:30 AM to 5 PM CLOSED WEEKENDS 
https://www.plasticareinc.com/
 
 

[[Category:Materials]]
[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Plastic Vendors

2016-08-12T18:18:45Z

Chuck: cleaned up footer

Here is a list of local vendors for plastic, acryllic, etc.

Colorado Plastics 
2015 500 S. Arthur Ave. 
Louisville, CO, 80027 
1-800-398-9271 or 303-443-9271 
4th Friday Remnant Sale 
http://www.coloradoplastics.com/

Port Plastics 
5150 Havana St 
Denver, CO 80239 
(303) 371-2976 
Open 8-5 M-F 
http://portplastics.com

Plasticare 
4211 South Natches Court, Unit K 
Englewood, Colorado 80110 
(303) 781-1171 
Open Monday- Friday 7:30 AM to 5 PM CLOSED WEEKENDS 
https://www.plasticareinc.com/

[[Category:Materials]]
[[Category:Laser Cutter]]
[[Category:Rapid Prototyping]]
Back to: [[Main Page]]

Category:Materials

2016-08-12T18:06:46Z

Chuck: Creation of Category

Materials: Which materials do you use? Where do you buy them?

Plastic Vendors

2016-08-12T18:04:40Z

Chuck: text change

Laser Cutter

2016-08-12T18:03:07Z

Chuck:

====== Specifications ======
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W 
'''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm)
 

===== Parts of the Laser =====
'''X/Y carriage''' - Moves the laser head along the X and Y planes (left to right, toward and away.) 
'''Honeycomb table''' - disperses any reflected laser energy as well as positioning the engraving material within the proper distance from the laser head. 
'''Z axis Bed of Laser''' - Z axis Bed of Laser - The bed of the laser moves up and down to focus the laser. It can be lowered 10 inches under the laser focal lens. 
'''Laser Tube Water Jacket Chiller''' - A pump moves chilled, distilled water through a glass tube around the laser, cooling it. 
'''Compressed Air in''' - Air Assist is compressed air that blows onto the cutting point of the laser. It blows away smoke that would otherwise deposit on the mirrors 
 

===== Machine Safety =====
'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''

'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those setting it needs maintenance, please let someone know!'''

'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''

Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.

The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.

The machine is regularly check and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified Tinkermill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!

Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.

Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine. 
 

===== Fire Safety =====
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly. 
 

===== Material Selection =====
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.

You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/

'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''

'''Approved Materials''' 
Acrylic Plastic 
Plexiglass (PMMA) 
Delrin Plastic 
Kapton High Temperature Tape 
PETG Plastic 
Styrene Plastic 
Styrene Foam (melts very quickly) 
Depron Foam 
EPM Foam (Ethylene propylene rubber) 
Cloths (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton) 
Magnetic sheets 
Paper, Cardboard, Cardstock 
Rubbers (those that are free of chlorine) 
Woods (balsa, birch, poplar, red oak, cherry, holly, etc.) 
Cork
Coroplast
Carbon Fiber Mats/Weave '''that has not had the epoxy applied!''' 
Baltic Birch Plywood 
Back of Mirrors (engrave only) 
Anodized Aluminum (engrave only) 
Powder Coated Metal (engrave only) 
Glass (engrave only) 
Ceramic Tile (engrave only) 
Stone, Marble, Granite (engrave only) 

'''DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE''' 
Polycarbonate (fire hazard) 
Lexan (fire hazard) 
PVC (chlorine) 
Cintra (chlorine) 
Vinyl (chlorine) 
ABS Plastic (fire Hazard, difficult to clean up) 
Pleather / Faux Leather (chlorine) 
Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites (noxious fumes from epoxy) 
Printed Circuit Boards (noxious fumes) 
Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber (noxious fumes) 
HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic (fire hazard) 
Any Material Containing Chlorine 
 

===== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving =====
* The laser cutter software uses DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format
* DXF files should be saved in R14 version
* The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm
* Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF
* DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths
* Make note of your documents size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the LaserCut software
* Closed paths that are put on an Engrave layer in the RabbitLaser software will appear as solid areas of engraving.

====== With Adobe Illustrator ======
* Change the document's units to metric (Edit > Preferences > Units > General)
* All paths should have zero fill. Filled shapes will produce a "Hatch" error in the RabbitLaser software.

====== With Inkscape ======
Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.
===== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving =====
The PhotoGrav software can be used to convert raster images into a format compatable with the RabbitLaser software. This is installed on the computer and can be found locked to the task bar (the sun icon.) 
 

===== Operating the Laser =====
# Turn the laser on with the key. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.
# Press the “XY-0” button to prevent the laser head from leaving the workable space.
# Start the LaserCut software.
# Click “File>Import” to navigate to and select your file.
# Select paths and assign colors to those that will have separate power and speed settings.
# Set the power and speed settings for each layer (color). Please reference the advice power and speed settings sheet that is near the computer.
# Layers will be cut/engraved in order from top to bottom. They can be arranged by pressing the "Up" and "Down" buttons underneath the Layers pallet
# Check the size of your artwork by selecting everything and pressing Ctrl+G. This will show you the selections size (in millimeters) and allows for its adjustment.
# Although not required, it is wise to save the file at this point to the computer or your thumbdrive. This will save the file in a .MOL format that will retain your layers as well as speed and power settings.
# Ensure that the origin, or starting point, of your artwork is set to the upper left corner by clicking on "Laser" > "Set laser origin" and selecting "LEFT-TOP."
## [[File:laser_origin_1.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]
## [[File:laser_origin_2.png|200px|Setting laser origin in Rabbit Laser software.]]
# The screen on the laser cutter should now display the name of your file
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.
# Use the laser cutter’s up/down, left/right keys to move the head of the laser over your material. If the laser head doesn’t move when you press the buttons try hitting the “ESC” and try again.
# Press the “TEST” button. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file. It is important that you know your origin point before testing or the head of the laser may ignore its limit switches and slam into the side of the machine.
# Press the “Z-0” button to automatically focus the laser. The bed will rise until a limit switch immediately left of the laser head is activated, it will then move back down to the proper focal distance.
# You are ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser.
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!

===== Cleaning and Maintenance =====
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions. 

Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to info@tinkermill.org.

==== Lens Damage Examples ====
[[File:lens_damage_examples.png|Lens Damage Examples]]

==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.
[[File:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png]]

==== Design Resources ====
Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials 
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

Example Projects 
http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm 
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html

Living (or Lattice) Hinges 
http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/
http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm

[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software] 
[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images] 
[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator] 
[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator] 

==== Material Resources ====

Rubber Stamp Materials-
[http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe] 

[[Plastic Vendors]]

'''Birch Plywood''' 
Stan's Hardwood 
617 1st Ave. Longmont, Colorado 80501 
(303) 772-2418 
Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-3, Closed: Sun & Mon 
http://www.longmonthardwood.com/

Plastic Vendors

2016-08-12T17:54:02Z

Chuck: Where to buy plastics locally

Here is a list of local vendors for plastic.

Colorado Plastics 
2015 500 S. Arthur Ave. 
Louisville, CO, 80027 
1-800-398-9271 or 303-443-9271 
4th Friday Remnant Sale 
http://www.coloradoplastics.com/

Port Plastics 
5150 Havana St 
Denver, CO 80239 
(303) 371-2976 
Open 8-5 M-F 
http://portplastics.com

Plasticare 
4211 South Natches Court, Unit K 
Englewood, Colorado 80110 
(303) 781-1171 
Open Monday- Friday 7:30 AM to 5 PM CLOSED WEEKENDS 
https://www.plasticareinc.com/

[[Category:Materials]]