https://wiki.tinkermill.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Admin&feedformat=atomTinkerMill Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T06:10:20ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.33.4https://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=26Main Page2016-07-23T19:14:29Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div><strong>Welcome to the TinkerMill Wiki</strong><br />
<br />
;[[Rapid_Prototyping|Rapid Prototyping]]<br />
;[[Glassworks]]<br />
;[[Jewelry_and_Metalcraft|Jewelry and Metal Craft]]<br />
;[[Robotics]]<br />
;[[Woodworking]]<br />
;[[Textiles]]<br />
;[[Electronics]]<br />
;[[Teaching_Classes|Teaching Classes]]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter&diff=25Laser Cutter2016-07-23T17:08:00Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div>====== Specifications ======<br />
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W<br /><br />
'''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm)<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Parts of the Laser =====<br />
'''X/Y carriage''' - Moves the laser head along the X and Y planes (left to right, toward and away.)<br /><br />
'''Honeycomb table''' - disperses any reflected laser energy as well as positioning the engraving material within the proper distance from the laser head.<br /><br />
'''Z axis Bed of Laser''' - Z axis Bed of Laser - The bed of the laser moves up and down to focus the laser. It can be lowered 10 inches under the laser focal lens.<br /><br />
'''Laser Tube Water Jacket Chiller''' - A pump moves chilled, distilled water through a glass tube around the laser, cooling it.<br /><br />
'''Compressed Air in''' - Air Assist is compressed air that blows onto the cutting point of the laser. It blows away smoke that would otherwise deposit on the mirrors<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Machine Safety =====<br />
'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''<br />
<br />
'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those setting it needs maintenance, please let someone know!'''<br />
<br />
'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''<br />
<br />
Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.<br />
<br />
The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.<br />
<br />
The machine is regularly check and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified Tinkermill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.<br />
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!<br />
<br />
Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.<br />
<br />
Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Fire Safety =====<br />
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Material Selection =====<br />
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.<br />
<br />
You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:<br />
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf<br />
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/<br />
<br />
'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''<br />
<br />
'''Approved Materials'''<br /><br />
Acrylic Plastic<br /><br />
Plexiglass (PMMA)<br /><br />
Delrin Plastic<br /><br />
Kapton High Temperature Tape<br /><br />
PETG Plastic<br /><br />
Styrene Plastic<br /><br />
Styrene Foam (melts very quickly)<br /><br />
Depron Foam<br /><br />
EPM Foam (Ethylene propylene rubber)<br /><br />
Cloths (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton)<br /><br />
Magnetic sheets<br /><br />
Paper, Cardboard, Cardstock<br /><br />
Rubbers (those that are free of chlorine)<br /><br />
Woods (balsa, birch, poplar, red oak, cherry, holly, etc.)<br /><br />
Cork<br />
Coroplast<br />
Carbon Fiber Mats/Weave '''that has not had the epoxy applied!'''<br /><br />
Baltic Birch Plywood<br /><br />
Back of Mirrors (engrave only)<br /><br />
Anodized Aluminum (engrave only)<br /><br />
Powder Coated Metal (engrave only)<br /><br />
Glass (engrave only)<br /><br />
Ceramic Tile (engrave only)<br /><br />
Stone, Marble, Granite (engrave only)<br /><br />
<br />
'''DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE'''<br /><br />
Polycarbonate (fire hazard)<br /><br />
Lexan (fire hazard)<br /><br />
PVC (chlorine)<br /><br />
Cintra (chlorine)<br /><br />
Vinyl (chlorine)<br /><br />
ABS Plastic (fire Hazard, difficult to clean up)<br /><br />
Pleather / Faux Leather (chlorine)<br /><br />
Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites (noxious fumes from epoxy)<br /><br />
Printed Circuit Boards (noxious fumes)<br /><br />
Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber (noxious fumes)<br /><br />
HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic (fire hazard)<br /><br />
Any Material Containing Chlorine<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving =====<br />
* The laser cutter software uses DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format <br />
* DXF files should be saved in R14 version<br />
* The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm<br />
* Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF<br />
* DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths<br />
* Make note of your documents size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the LaserCut software<br />
* Closed paths that are put on an Engrave layer in the RabbitLaser software will appear as solid areas of engraving.<br />
<br />
====== With Adobe Illustrator ======<br />
* Change the document's units to metric (Edit > Preferences > Units > General)<br />
* All paths should have zero fill. Filled shapes will produce a "Hatch" error in the RabbitLaser software.<br />
<br />
====== With Inkscape ======<br />
Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:<br />
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320<br />
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.<br />
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.<br />
===== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving =====<br />
The PhotoGrav software can be used to convert raster images into a format compatable with the RabbitLaser software. This is installed on the computer and can be found locked to the task bar (the sun icon.)<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Operating the Laser =====<br />
# Turn the laser on with the key. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.<br />
# Start the LaserCut software.<br />
# Click “File>Import” to navigate to and select your file.<br />
# Select paths and assign colors to those that will have separate power and speed settings.<br />
# Set the power and speed settings for each layer (color). Please reference the advice power and speed settings sheet that is near the computer.<br />
# Layers will be cut/engraved in order from top to bottom. They can be arranged by pressing the "Up" and "Down" buttons underneath the Layers pallet<br />
# Check the size of your artwork by selecting everything and pressing Ctrl+G. This will show you the selections size (in millimeters) and allows for its adjustment.<br />
# Although not required, it is wise to save the file at this point to the computer or your thumbdrive. This will save the file in a .MOL format that will retain your layers as well as speed and power settings.<br />
# Ensure that the origin, or starting point, of your artwork is set to the upper left corner by clicking on "Laser" > "Set laser origin" and selecting "LEFT-TOP."<br />
## {{:laser_origin_1.png?200|}}<br />
## {{:laser_origin_2.png?200|}}<br />
# The screen on the laser cutter should now display the name of your file<br />
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.<br />
# Use the laser cutter’s up/down, left/right keys to move the head of the laser over your material. If the laser head doesn’t move when you press the buttons try hitting the “ESC” and try again. <br />
# Press the “TEST” button. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file. It is important that you know your origin point before testing or the head of the laser may ignore its limit switches and slam into the side of the machine.<br />
# Press the “Z-0” button to automatically focus the laser. The bed will rise until a limit switch on the laser head is activated, it will then move back down to the proper focal distance. <br />
# You are ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser.<br />
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!<br />
<br />
===== Cleaning and Maintenance =====<br />
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions.<br /><br />
<br />
Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training and specific authorization. If you believe that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to info@tinkermill.org.<br />
<br />
==== Lens Damage Examples ====<br />
{{:lens_damage_examples.png?300|}}<br />
<br />
==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====<br />
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.<br />
{{:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png?300|}}<br />
==== Design Resources ====<br />
Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials<br /><br />
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html<br />
<br />
Example Projects<br /><br />
http://epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm<br /><br />
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html<br />
<br />
Living (or Lattice) Hinges<br /><br />
http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/<br />
http://www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm<br />
<br />
[http://www.inkscape.org/en|Inkscape Free Vector Drawing Software]<br /><br />
[http://www.all-silhouettes.com/|Free Vector Images]<br /><br />
[http://www.makercase.com/|Tabbed Box Generator]<br /><br />
[http://www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html|Gear Template Generator]<br /><br />
<br />
==== Material Resources ====<br />
<br />
[http://www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx|Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe]<br /><br /><br />
<br />
'''Plastics'''<br /><br />
Colorado Plastics 4th Friday Remnant Sale<br /><br />
2015 500 S. Arthur Ave.<br /><br />
Louisville, CO, 80027<br /><br />
1-800-398-9271 or 303-443-9271<br /><br />
http://www.coloradoplastics.com/retail/fourth-friday-half-price-remnant-sale/<br /><br /><br />
<br />
'''Birch Plywood'''<br /><br />
Stan's Hardwood<br /><br />
617 1st Ave. Longmont, Colorado 80501<br /><br />
(303) 772-2418<br /><br />
Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-3, Closed: Sun & Mon<br /><br />
http://www.longmonthardwood.com/</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Teaching_Classes&diff=24Teaching Classes2016-07-23T17:00:30Z<p>Admin: Created page with "Would you like to teach a class, hold a workshop or give a talk on a subject you think people would find interesting? TinkerMill would love to host you! We encourage all our..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Would you like to teach a class, hold a workshop or give a talk on a subject you think people would find interesting?<br />
<br />
TinkerMill would love to host you! We encourage all our members to teach. Everyone knows enough about something to teach a class, give a workshop or give a talk on something. You don't need to be a TinkerMill member to use the space if it's something of value and that fits with our mission. TinkerMill supports the expansion of knowledge in all areas. We only ask that you steer clear of two subjects: Politics and religion. We have nothing against either; there are simply plenty of other places for those two subjects.<br />
<br />
To schedule a class at TinkerMill:<br />
<br />
#Go to the TinkerMill calendar at http://www.meetup.com/LongmontHackerSpace/events/ and identify a day that fits your schedule and is available. Give people at least a few days notice so that they can plan to attend your class. <br />
#When your cursor hovers over a date, you'll see a small calendar icon in the upper right area with a tooltip that reads "schedule a meetup on this date." Click on this icon to open the [http://www.meetup.com/LongmontHackerSpace/events/?action=new|Schedule a Meetup] page and fill in all the details.<br />
#Write a description that sounds interesting and fun, add an image. Be descriptive, but concise. Cover what the topic is, what you'll be doing in the class and what the attendee will leave with, if anything.<br />
#You can set the class to repeat regularly or copy it later for another date. <br />
#Class fees for members should always be less than non-members.<br />
#State the materials cost (if any) and what it includes in your description if you are charging for and providing a kit. If you would like TinkerMill to provide any materials, discuss this with the shop captain that pertains to your class; some items we have in house or can purchase. Make sure to obtain approval from the shop captain and supply a list of what you need in plenty of time to obtain it for your class if appropriate. Decide whether you want students to purchase supplies separately or have that price built into your class costs. <br />
#If your class will use TinkerMill equipment, 50% of the post-expense proceeds will go to TinkerMill and 50% will be paid to the instructor. If your class is using only the TinkerMill building and no TinkerMill equipment, 20% of the post-expense proceeds will go to TinkerMill and 80% will be paid to the instructor. <br />
#You can set payment options. TinkerMill strongly recommends using PayPal for class payments. Payments taken via PayPal will be disbursed to the instructor; there are instructor payment sheets in the office. Have one available at your class to note who is attending and what they pay, then turn it in at the office after your class. You are responsible for ensuring that your students pay for your classes. Instructor payments are typically processed once per month.<br />
#In the RSVP settings, you can specify a group size limit. You as the scheduler will count as one. <br />
#Click Schedule this meetup now. Review all information, then click Announce Meetup.<br />
#Once a class has been created, you can still edit the details, copy it and offer it on another date and time, share the event on Facebook, or export it to a calendar from the options underneath the class name when you click on the event.<br />
#Meetup will track signups, and you can interact with those who sign up through email. After the event, those attending can leave messages or click "good to see you".</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=23Main Page2016-07-23T16:46:24Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div><strong>Welcome to the TinkerMill Wiki</strong><br />
<br />
;[[Rapid_Prototyping|Rapid Prototyping]]<br />
;[[Glassworks]]<br />
;[[Jewelry_and_Metalcraft|Jewelry and Metal Craft]]<br />
;[[Robotics]]<br />
;[[Woodworking]]<br />
;[[Textiles]]<br />
;[[Electronics]]<br />
;[[Teaching_Classes|Teaching Classes]]<br />
<br />
== Getting started ==<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]<br />
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Embroidery&diff=22Embroidery2016-07-22T19:18:36Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Embroidery Machine Tips ==<br />
<br />
The video tutorials for the embroidery machine are on the computer that sits next to it. The machine does not have speakers so bring a pair of earphones or plug in a speaker. The videos explain how to do everything on the machine. This document is meant to supplement those procedures.<br />
<br />
=== Manuals from Brother ===<br />
The manuals are very easy to follow. A printed copy of the following manuals are in a black binder in the Embroidery supply bin located with the Embroidery Machine.<br />
<br />
* [[Media:quick_ref_guide.pdf|Quick Reference Guide]]<br />
* [[Media:operation_manual.pdf|Operations Manual]]<br />
* [[Media:inst_man_usb_connections.pdf|Instruction Manual - USB Connections]]<br />
<br />
=== SewArt User Manual ===<br />
SewArt is software for converting digital graphics images - which may be stored either in raster (bitmap) or vector format - to a stitch file that can be sewn on an embroidery machine. This process is referred to as embroidery digitizing and the software for doing that (SewArt) is called an auto-digitizer. Supported raster file types include: *.bmp, *.png, *.jpg, *.gif, *.tif and vector formats include: *.emf, and *.wmf.<br />
* [[Media:sewart_manual.pdf|SewArt User Manual]]<br />
=== Threading the machine ===<br />
<br />
The machine is numbered as to where the thread should go and the manual has helpful illustrations, but a few hints may help this process go smoother.<br />
<br />
* Be sure the presser foot is in the up position and the needle is raised to its highest point. Start with threading point (1) and begin to thread the machine.<br />
* Threading point (6) is a small horizontal clip just above the needle. Tension the thread by holding it down near (2) so that with your left hand you can draw the thread from right to left fully into the clip.<br />
* Instead of cutting the thread at point eight, hold the thread out from number seven while carefully pushing down the auto-threading lever on the left side (9) until the threading mechanism engages with the needle. Draw the thread in front of the eye of the needle so it can be captured by the tiny threading hook wire. And then slowly release the lever (9).<br />
* This may take a few tries to get the hang of it. Also, if the needle is not inserted correctly this will not work. If in doubt about it, take the needle out and reinsert it by pushing it up as far as it will go before tightening. If unsuccessful with the auto threader, you'll have to thread the needle by hand. Sorry.<br />
* There is a spool adapter (blue with a hole in center) to support and align the spool better. Make sure to transfer this each time the thread spool is changed.<br />
<br />
=== The Bobbin ===<br />
<br />
The bobbin is located under the clear plastic cover in the base just front of the needle. There are instructions for how to load the bobbin when it runs out of thread in the manual. Hints for successful loading:<br />
<br />
* Make sure the bobbin is at least one-quarter to one-half full depending on the design before beginning. If in doubt, load a fresh bobbin for your project.<br />
* Unlike many sewing machines, the embroidery machine does not require that the bobbin thread be brought up to the sewing surface before stitching. However, you may find it useful to do so if the bobbin thread insists on tangling when stitching the first color.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Preparing your fabric ===<br />
<br />
* Determine where on the fabric you want to place your design and draw a box the size of the design on the fabric using a washable marker or heat-sensitive marker (these can be found at most hobby or fabric stores). Mark the center point.<br />
* Select a hoop of sufficient size that there is a fabric margin of at least 3/4" around the design once it is secured in the hoop.<br />
* Cut a piece of embroidery stabilizer at least an inch larger than the hoop on all sides.<br />
* Lay the stabilizer on top of the hoop back such that it extends past the hoop edges on all sides. Lay the fabric to be stitched right side up on the stabilizer such that the center of the design box aligns with the center point of the hoop.<br />
* Pin the wrong side of the fabric to the stabilizer so that the right side of the fabric faces up with the stabilizer pinned to the back.<br />
=== Hooping ===<br />
<br />
* The hoop needs to be positioned so that the metal tabs on the side are free from the fabric and will not catch on anything.<br />
* The bottom hoop should be loosened as much as possible and positioned under the fabric and stabilizer. <br />
* The top hoop has a small arrow at one end that should match up to the arrow on the bottom hoop. <br />
* Tighten the hoop once the top has been pushed down into the fabric. It is important that the fabric is tight so it does not move around during embroidering.<br />
* Click the hoop on to the machine<br />
* The embroidery machine will only create a pattern up to 4” by 4” in size. This means the design should not be any larger. While the machine can do some resizing of the pattern, it cannot shrink much.<br />
<br />
=== Picking a Design ===<br />
<br />
The machine has a number of pre-programed designs. Additional designs can be uploaded from a computer by using a USB cable and following the instructions in the last chapter in the Brother Operations Manual. The embroidery machine reads files with a .pes extension. There are two .pes files on the computer that contain Tinkermill logos. Other .pes files are available on the web for downloading. Check copyright restrictions. When you select the upload option on the embroidery machine, the machine will look for .pes files to upload from the PC when they are present in the proper location on the PC. Refer to the last chapter in the Brother operations manual for details.<br />
<br />
Note:'''Turn on the computer''' '''''before''''' '''the Embroidery machine''' to keep the computer from trying to read the USB for booting. <br />
=== Loading a design - Brief instructions ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you have a design, use a USB drive to upload to the computer and save it to a folder. <br />
* Plug the USB from the Embroidery machine (EM) into the computer.<br />
* Open the folder for the EM and copy files to the EM from the other folder that contains your design. If the designs look essentially the same, copy only one at a time as the machine does not name them and the low resolution display will make both look the same.<br />
* To locate your design select the USB symbol and select the design by touching the icons on the screen.<br />
* Then touch the icon on the screen that looks like a pocket to modify or adjust the design for embroidery.<br />
* Use the button called Adj and the layout button that has an arrow and square to show what area of the fabric the EM will be using for the design.<br />
* There are buttons to adjust the size and orientation of the design.<br />
* Once the design is acceptable as to size and orientation, lower the EM’s foot.<br />
* The red button on the machine will turn green.<br />
* Hold both the threads (bobbin and top) before pushing the button. This will reduce the likelihood that the bobbin thread will wad-up underneath.<br />
* Push the green button and the EM will begin. It will stop when the design is finished.</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Operation_manual.pdf&diff=21File:Operation manual.pdf2016-07-22T19:17:30Z<p>Admin: Embroidery Machine Operations Manual</p>
<hr />
<div>Embroidery Machine Operations Manual</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Inst_man_usb_connections.pdf&diff=20File:Inst man usb connections.pdf2016-07-22T19:17:11Z<p>Admin: Embroidery Machine Instruction Manual - USB Connections</p>
<hr />
<div>Embroidery Machine Instruction Manual - USB Connections</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Quick_ref_guide.pdf&diff=19File:Quick ref guide.pdf2016-07-22T19:16:53Z<p>Admin: Embroidery Machine Quick Reference Guide</p>
<hr />
<div>Embroidery Machine Quick Reference Guide</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:Sewart_manual.pdf&diff=18File:Sewart manual.pdf2016-07-22T19:16:18Z<p>Admin: SewArt Manual</p>
<hr />
<div>SewArt Manual</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Embroidery&diff=17Embroidery2016-07-22T18:47:39Z<p>Admin: Created page with "== Embroidery Machine Tips == The video tutorials for the embroidery machine are on the computer that sits next to it. The machine does not have speakers so bring a pair of e..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Embroidery Machine Tips ==<br />
<br />
The video tutorials for the embroidery machine are on the computer that sits next to it. The machine does not have speakers so bring a pair of earphones or plug in a speaker. The videos explain how to do everything on the machine. This document is meant to supplement those procedures.<br />
<br />
=== Manuals from Brother ===<br />
The manuals are very easy to follow. A printed copy of the following manuals are in a black binder in the Embroidery supply bin located with the Embroidery Machine.<br />
<br />
* [[:quick_ref_guide.pdf|Quick Reference Guide]]<br />
* [[:operation_manual.pdf|Operations Manual]]<br />
* [[:inst_man_usb_connections.pdf|Instruction Manual - USB Connections]]<br />
<br />
=== SewArt User Manual ===<br />
SewArt is software for converting digital graphics images - which may be stored either in raster (bitmap) or vector format - to a stitch file that can be sewn on an embroidery machine. This process is referred to as embroidery digitizing and the software for doing that (SewArt) is called an auto-digitizer. Supported raster file types include: *.bmp, *.png, *.jpg, *.gif, *.tif and vector formats include: *.emf, and *.wmf.<br />
* [[:sewart_manual.pdf|SewArt User Manual]]<br />
=== Threading the machine ===<br />
<br />
The machine is numbered as to where the thread should go and the manual has helpful illustrations, but a few hints may help this process go smoother.<br />
<br />
* Be sure the presser foot is in the up position and the needle is raised to its highest point. Start with threading point (1) and begin to thread the machine.<br />
* Threading point (6) is a small horizontal clip just above the needle. Tension the thread by holding it down near (2) so that with your left hand you can draw the thread from right to left fully into the clip.<br />
* Instead of cutting the thread at point eight, hold the thread out from number seven while carefully pushing down the auto-threading lever on the left side (9) until the threading mechanism engages with the needle. Draw the thread in front of the eye of the needle so it can be captured by the tiny threading hook wire. And then slowly release the lever (9).<br />
* This may take a few tries to get the hang of it. Also, if the needle is not inserted correctly this will not work. If in doubt about it, take the needle out and reinsert it by pushing it up as far as it will go before tightening. If unsuccessful with the auto threader, you'll have to thread the needle by hand. Sorry.<br />
* There is a spool adapter (blue with a hole in center) to support and align the spool better. Make sure to transfer this each time the thread spool is changed.<br />
<br />
=== The Bobbin ===<br />
<br />
The bobbin is located under the clear plastic cover in the base just front of the needle. There are instructions for how to load the bobbin when it runs out of thread in the manual. Hints for successful loading:<br />
<br />
* Make sure the bobbin is at least one-quarter to one-half full depending on the design before beginning. If in doubt, load a fresh bobbin for your project.<br />
* Unlike many sewing machines, the embroidery machine does not require that the bobbin thread be brought up to the sewing surface before stitching. However, you may find it useful to do so if the bobbin thread insists on tangling when stitching the first color.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== Preparing your fabric ===<br />
<br />
* Determine where on the fabric you want to place your design and draw a box the size of the design on the fabric using a washable marker or heat-sensitive marker (these can be found at most hobby or fabric stores). Mark the center point.<br />
* Select a hoop of sufficient size that there is a fabric margin of at least 3/4" around the design once it is secured in the hoop.<br />
* Cut a piece of embroidery stabilizer at least an inch larger than the hoop on all sides.<br />
* Lay the stabilizer on top of the hoop back such that it extends past the hoop edges on all sides. Lay the fabric to be stitched right side up on the stabilizer such that the center of the design box aligns with the center point of the hoop.<br />
* Pin the wrong side of the fabric to the stabilizer so that the right side of the fabric faces up with the stabilizer pinned to the back.<br />
=== Hooping ===<br />
<br />
* The hoop needs to be positioned so that the metal tabs on the side are free from the fabric and will not catch on anything.<br />
* The bottom hoop should be loosened as much as possible and positioned under the fabric and stabilizer. <br />
* The top hoop has a small arrow at one end that should match up to the arrow on the bottom hoop. <br />
* Tighten the hoop once the top has been pushed down into the fabric. It is important that the fabric is tight so it does not move around during embroidering.<br />
* Click the hoop on to the machine<br />
* The embroidery machine will only create a pattern up to 4” by 4” in size. This means the design should not be any larger. While the machine can do some resizing of the pattern, it cannot shrink much.<br />
<br />
=== Picking a Design ===<br />
<br />
The machine has a number of pre-programed designs. Additional designs can be uploaded from a computer by using a USB cable and following the instructions in the last chapter in the Brother Operations Manual. The embroidery machine reads files with a .pes extension. There are two .pes files on the computer that contain Tinkermill logos. Other .pes files are available on the web for downloading. Check copyright restrictions. When you select the upload option on the embroidery machine, the machine will look for .pes files to upload from the PC when they are present in the proper location on the PC. Refer to the last chapter in the Brother operations manual for details.<br />
<br />
Note:'''Turn on the computer''' '''''before''''' '''the Embroidery machine''' to keep the computer from trying to read the USB for booting. <br />
=== Loading a design - Brief instructions ===<br />
<br />
<br />
* If you have a design, use a USB drive to upload to the computer and save it to a folder. <br />
* Plug the USB from the Embroidery machine (EM) into the computer.<br />
* Open the folder for the EM and copy files to the EM from the other folder that contains your design. If the designs look essentially the same, copy only one at a time as the machine does not name them and the low resolution display will make both look the same.<br />
* To locate your design select the USB symbol and select the design by touching the icons on the screen.<br />
* Then touch the icon on the screen that looks like a pocket to modify or adjust the design for embroidery.<br />
* Use the button called Adj and the layout button that has an arrow and square to show what area of the fabric the EM will be using for the design.<br />
* There are buttons to adjust the size and orientation of the design.<br />
* Once the design is acceptable as to size and orientation, lower the EM’s foot.<br />
* The red button on the machine will turn green.<br />
* Hold both the threads (bobbin and top) before pushing the button. This will reduce the likelihood that the bobbin thread will wad-up underneath.<br />
* Push the green button and the EM will begin. It will stop when the design is finished.</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Textiles&diff=16Textiles2016-07-22T18:46:31Z<p>Admin: Created page with "Embroidery"</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Embroidery]]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Woodworking&diff=15Woodworking2016-07-22T18:43:00Z<p>Admin: Created page with "==TABLE SAW BASICS - TOOL CERTIFICATION== If you do not feel comfortable making a cut, ask for help! There are many skilled and knowledgeable members who are eager to share t..."</p>
<hr />
<div>==TABLE SAW BASICS - TOOL CERTIFICATION==<br />
<br />
If you do not feel comfortable making a cut, ask for help! There are many skilled and knowledgeable members who are eager to share their expertise. If you feel even slightly nervous cutting something please, please ask for help!<br />
<br />
Do not wear gloves while operating a table saw. There are several reasons, but loss of tactile sense is probably foremost, while a possible loss of gripping power is also close to the top. And some kinds of gloves are loose enough to present an item for the rotating blade to grab.<br />
<br />
Keep the floor in front of the saw free of cut-offs and piled up sawdust. Tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade can really create problems, but even slipping and banging your head against the cast iron table can bring on a bad injury.<br />
<br />
Wear proper eye and hearing protection. Eyes need to be protected from damage by projectiles--and no, standard eyeglasses will not do the job. Hearing protection is something every woodworker should start with, and continue. Hearing loss creeps up on you without warning, and often without symptoms, until it's too late to reverse the procedure.<br />
<br />
Wear short sleeves, leave the ties at the office, and junk your dangling jewelry. Get rid of other loose fitting clothing while operating a table saw. Any of these items might get caught in the blade and yank you into it before you can react. Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.<br />
<br />
Stand comfortably, with your feet far enough apart for good balance. This is always important, but more so when you're cutting stock long enough to require several steps towards the saw to keep the feed going. Then, you build up momentum and want to be able to stop easily. Wear footwear with non-slip soles.<br />
<br />
Avoid any awkward operations. If you feel like a gawky fool doing a cut, then don't do the cut in that manner. This helps you avoid losing your balance and possibly falling into the blade or table.<br />
<br />
Use a push stick to cut stock that is 6" or less in width. A hand that isn't close to a blade isn't going to get cut. Generally, a 6” minimum distance to the blade is considered safe, though some recommend 4”.<br />
<br />
<br />
Use a stop block when you crosscut short lengths. Mount a stop block on the fence--this can be as simple as a clamped on board that stops just before the saw blade, so that cut-off pieces cannot bind between blade and fence.<br />
<br />
<br />
Position your body so that it is NOT in line with the blade. This keeps sawdust feeding back through the slot of the blade out of your face, and much more important, it keeps you out of the line of most kick-backs.<br />
<br />
Never reach behind or over the blade unless it has stopped turning. Sometimes this looks safe. It almost never truly is. This does not mean you should stop pushing your work before it finishes passing through the blade, itself an invitation to kick back (see pushsticks.)<br />
<br />
Always disconnect the power before changing the blade or performing any other maintenance operation. I like to drape the plug over my fence rail so I know in an instant the saw's unplugged…or not.<br />
<br />
Make sure that the blade has stopped turning before you adjust the table saw. The reasons are obvious. Making adjustments can get hands too close to the blade, and even a slowly spinning blade has a multitude of sharp edges that can do damage. Always make sure that the blade is turning free before you turn on the power: this is especially helpful after you make changes or adjustments. In other words, spin the blade without power a time or two to make sure there are no scraps or tools touching it.<br />
<br />
Keep the tabletop smooth and polished. A dirty or rough table requires you to use more force to push the stock through the blade. It may also rust like crazy, further reducing the saw's effectiveness.<br />
<br />
Keep the rip fence parallel to the blade so stock doesn't bind on the blade and kick back. Some woodworkers prefer to keep the rear of the fence kicked out (away from the blade) by 1/64". I believe parallel is better, but a friend of mine, with more experience than I, keeps the back of his fence kicked out. Both work.<br />
<br />
Use zero clearance inserts. These reduce the chance of slender cuts dropping into the lower part of the blade and making the round trip to speed by your head. They also reduce splintering in cuts.<br />
<br />
Never operate a table saw with the throat insert removed. Wood that is fed into a gaping hole can drop down and get caught on the blade. That can't happen if the throat insert is in place.<br />
<br />
Do not make free-hand cuts on a table saw. Guide the stock through the blade using the rip fence or the miter gauge.<br />
<br />
Keep the blade guards, splitters and anti-kickback fingers in place and operating freely. Check the action of these items before starting work.<br />
<br />
Work should be released only when it is past the blade. Releasing work too early is an invitation to kickback as it is possible for the blade to grab the part that has not yet gone by.<br />
<br />
Whenever the stock is lifted or tilted above the surface of the table, the saw is able to shake the stock. If this happens, and you lose your grip, hit the stop button because losing your grip on the work means it probably is going to come back at you.<br />
<br />
Check stock before cutting. Look for nails, knots, screws, or stones. Such fun items may become projectiles. If they hit, they smart, and may cause serious injury as well. Also, damage to carbide tipped blades can be major, even if all it does is scare you.<br />
<br />
The fence and the miter gauge are not meant to be used together. Under some circumstances, you can use both (see above on stop blocks), but the fence then needs an auxiliary fence added. That fence or stop must end just before the saw blade.<br />
<br />
Don't mess with the fence adjustment when the saw is running. And a general addition, which goes for all tools and all techniques in a wood shop: if a procedure feels unsafe, it probably is, so don't use it. Find another way to do what has to be done. <br />
<br />
Use supports or get help for large or long pieces of stock. If you have someone help you they should only support the wood, not push or pull. Bowed stock can be ripped with a straight edge attached to the stock. <br />
Jigs and fixtures exist for this purpose.<br />
Do not stand directly behind the area between the rip fence and the blade. If there is kick back this is where the material will fly out of the table saw.<br />
<br />
Thin stock can lift off the table surface as the blade enters the cut. Good downward pressure and push blocks help with this.<br />
<br />
Blade height should be 1/4-3/8" above the top surface. Some materials cut better if more blade is exposed. Maximum blade height is the depth of the gullet above the surface of the stock. Use the minimum height required to get a good quality cut.<br />
<br />
Warped stock should only be ripped on a band saw. <br />
<br />
From woodcraft.com</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Robotics&diff=14Robotics2016-07-22T18:42:20Z<p>Admin: Created page with "==TinkerMill Robotics Areas of Potential Focus== ===Community and Learning=== * Student Groups (FIRST) * Public Courses * Other Area Robotics Groups ===Projects=== * Robotic..."</p>
<hr />
<div>==TinkerMill Robotics Areas of Potential Focus==<br />
===Community and Learning===<br />
* Student Groups (FIRST)<br />
* Public Courses<br />
* Other Area Robotics Groups<br />
<br />
===Projects===<br />
* Robotic Contests<br />
** SparkFun AVC<br />
* Telepresence Bot<br />
* Agriculture Bot</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Jewelry_and_Metalcraft&diff=13Jewelry and Metalcraft2016-07-22T18:40:42Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div>=== Equipment List ===<br />
<br />
==== Hand Tools ====<br />
* Hammers-assorted<br />
* Pliers-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted needle<br />
* Sanding sticks<br />
* Jeweler's saw (x2)<br />
* Calipers<br />
* Hand shears, tin snips - assorted<br />
* Hole punch (Prat and Whitney) <br />
* Bench blocks<br />
<br />
==== Bench Tools ====<br />
* Flex Shaft w/assorted bits<br />
* Dremel w/drill press stand<br />
* Bench pins<br />
* Small vice/bench block (x2)<br />
* Large vice<br />
* Large anvil<br />
* Belt sander<br />
* Bench grinder/wire wheel<br />
* Dapping block and punches<br />
<br />
==== Soldering station ====<br />
* Butane torch<br />
* Oxygen/Acetylene torch<br />
* MAPP gas torch<br />
* Pickle pot, chemical<br />
* Tongs, tweezers<br />
* Rinse pot<br />
* Cleaning supplies<br />
<br />
==== Patina setup ====<br />
* Glass mixing jars and dishes<br />
* Brushes/applicators<br />
* Chemicals<br />
* Steel wool<br />
<br />
==== Electro-etch setup ====<br />
* DC Power supply<br />
* "D" battery holders<br />
* Battery clips<br />
* Etching vessels<br />
* Resist materials<br />
* Chemicals<br />
<br />
==== Firing Setup ====<br />
* Kiln (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Programmable controller<br />
<br />
==== Enameling Setup (On Loan to TinkerMill) ====<br />
* Sifting screens<br />
* Enamel powders<br />
* Enamel holding agent (e.g. Kleerfire)<br />
* Kiln trivets, wire screen<br />
<br />
==== Casting ====<br />
* Centrifugal rig (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Sand casting kit with casting frame, crucible, release agent, pre-mixed casting sand, tongs<br />
<br />
==== Lapidary (On Loan to TinkerMill) ====<br />
* Trim saw, cab forming wheels (Lortone LU6X Combination Unit) refurbished<br />
<br />
==== Lathe (On Loan to TinkerMill) ====<br />
<br />
==== Hydraulic Press ====<br />
* (to be converted from battery casing press to custom forming tool)<br />
<br />
==== Rolling Mill ====<br />
* Small Pepe<br />
* Part of 3-in-One<br />
<br />
==== Shear ====<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
<br />
==== Bending brake ====<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
* Stand-alone brake (larger than 3-in-1)<br />
<br />
=== Classes ===<br />
<br />
==== Curriculum Map ====<br />
See [[http://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/image/9750485/L.png|Curriculum Map]] <br /> Map is still under development. <br />
----<br />
==== Metals 100: Introduction to the Jewelry and Metal Crafts Shop ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite: none <br />
* Certification: no<br />
* Duration: 60 minutes<br />
* Prerequisite for: All certificate classes<br />
<br />
Metals 100 is a comprehensive introduction to the Jewelry and Metal Craft shop within TinkerMill. <br />
It is a non-certificate class but is a prerequisite for any shop certification class. <br />
It introduces the shop's tool groups, safety and guidelines, self-study resources, <br />
and examples of the types of projects best suited to this shop. <br /><br />
<br />
Metals 100 covers:<br />
* Safety first<br />
* Shop rules, (Ferrous vs Nonferr.) priority use, scale matters<br />
* Tool groups in the shop<br />
* Overview of curriculum paths and classes to become certified for independent tool use<br />
* Resources for independent study and collaboration: books, magazines, shop web portal, TM experts, organizations, and suitable project suggestions<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Metals 101: Basic Hand Tools & Fabrication ==== <br />
<br />
* Prerequisite: Metals 100 <br />
* Certification: Metals 101 - Hand tools<br />
* Duration: 1.5 - 2 hours<br />
* Required for: Metals 102 (Power tools) and Metals 201 (Single Fuel Torch) and specified project classes<br />
<br />
Metals 101 is a certification class for independent use of the shop's basic hand tools. It provides:<br />
* Instruction on the safe and appropriate use of unpowered hand tools<br />
* List of tools included in this certification<br />
* Additional self-study references and list of resources: e.g.: Wire+Metals Text, Web<br />
* Time in class or at Open Studio times to practice using the tools and complete the sampler project required for certification<br />
* Certification sampler project: Described in class handout<br />
<br />
===== Tools certified: =====<br />
* Jeweler’s saw <br />
* Hole punch<br />
* Files<br />
* Sanding media<br />
* Hammers<br />
* Ring mandrel, bench block, anvil<br />
* Dapping punch<br />
* Disc cutter<br />
* Pliers<br />
* Aviation shear<br />
* Calipers, Wire gauge, Jewelers’ rule<br />
* Bench pin<br />
* Stamps and punches<br />
* Jumpring maker<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Metals 102: Power Tools & Uses ==== <br />
<br />
* Prerequisite: Metals 100<br />
* Certification: Metals 102 - Power tools <br />
* Duration: 2 hours<br />
* Required for: Specified project classes<br />
<br />
<br />
Metals 102 is a certification class for independent use of the shop's listed power tools. It provides: <br /> <br />
* Instruction on the safe and appropriate use of shop's power tools<br />
* List of tools included in this certification<br />
* Additional self-study references and list of resources: e.g.: Wire+Metals Text, Web<br />
* Time in class or at Open Studio times to practice using the tools and complete the sampler project required for certification<br />
* Certification sampler project: Described in class handout<br />
<br />
===== Tools certified: =====<br />
* Dremel Drill press<br />
* Foredom Flexshaft<br />
* Bench Buffer<br />
* Belt Sander<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 200: Introduction to Torch use: Theory and Practice ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite: Metals 100 and 101<br />
* Certification: none <br />
* Duration: 60 minutes<br />
* Required for: Metals 201 (Single Fuel Torches)<br />
<br />
The Metals 200 is a non-certificate class to introduce the use of the shop's torches to anneal, join or fuse metal. <br />
You will hear about the certificate classes offered, and learn when you can use the torches independently at TinkerMill. <br />
This class demonstrates the differences between soldering, brazing, and welding, annealing and tempering metal.<br />
It also provides a bit of theory and terminology for this practice. <br />
<br /> <br />
<br />
Metals 200 covers:<br />
* Safety first<br />
* Soldering station equipment, supplies, and conventions<br />
* Torch-related certifications <br />
* Single fuel vs dual fuel uses<br />
* Flame heat principles<br />
* Understanding annealing<br />
* Demonstrations<br />
* Examples<br />
* Q&A<br />
* Resources: books, magazines, web, TM experts, organizations, and project suggestions<br />
* List of tools included in certifications<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 201: Torch use - Single fuel====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite: Metals 200<br />
* Certification: Metals 201 - Single Fuel Torches and tools requiring annealed materials<br />
* Duration: 90-120 minutes<br />
* Required for: Metals 202 and specified project classes<br />
<br />
This class is a certification class for independent use of the shop's single fuel torches (Butane, Propane, MAPP Gas, Acetylene-Air). <br />
It provides: <br /><br />
* Theory: Annealing different metals, silver soldering<br />
* Instruction on the safe and appropriate use of torches for basic jewelry-making (annealing and silver soldering) <br />
* Instruction to use tools that may be used only with annealed metal<br />
* List of tools and techniques requiring annealing (e.g.: texturing, raising, folding, riveting, making headpins)<br />
* Reference materials<br />
* Additional self-study resources<br />
* Hands-on trials (supervised)<br />
* Open Studio time to practice using the tools safely and complete the sampler project required for certification<br />
* Certification sampler project: Described in class handout<br />
<br />
===== Tools certified: =====<br />
* Butane torch<br />
* Acetylene/AIR torch (not Oxygen/Acetylene torch)<br />
* MAPP Gas torch<br />
* Soldering station - materials and tools (solder, pickle, quench, hand tools, etc.)<br />
* Rolling mill<br />
* 3-in-1, bending brake<br />
* Review of dapping block and disc cutter, use of punches<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 202: Torch use - Dual fuel ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 203: Torch use - Molten metal====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 300: Introduction to Chemical and Electrolytic Surface Treatments ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite: none<br />
* Certification: no<br />
* Duration: 30 minutes<br />
* Required for: Metals 301 (Electrolytic Etching), Metals 302 (Chemical Patinas and Inks), Metals 303 (Annodizing)<br />
<br />
Metals 300 is a non-certificate class to introduce the use of the shop's equipment to alter the surface appearance of metal using an electrical charge and/or chemical means. You will hear about the certificate classes offered which allow you to use this equipment independently at TinkerMill. <br />
This class explains and gives some examples of the differences between these surface treatment methods.<br />
It also provides a bit of theory and terminology for this practice. <br />
<br /> <br />
<br />
Metals 300 covers:<br />
* Safety first<br />
* Station equipment, supplies, and conventions<br />
* Certifications<br />
* Storage and disposal of chemicals at TinkerMill<br />
* Demonstrations<br />
* Examples<br />
* Q&A<br />
* Resources: books, magazines, web, TM experts, organizations, and project suggestions<br />
* List of tools included in certifications<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 301: Electrolytic Etching ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 302: Applying Chemical Patinas and Inks ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 303: Annodizing ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 400: Introduction to Kiln Use ====<br />
<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 401: Using the Metal Craft Shop Kiln ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 500: Introduction to Lapidary Use ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 501: Using the Lapidary for Stone Shaping ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
==== Metals 600: Intro to Lathes at TinkerMill ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==== Metals 601: Using the Small Metal Lathe ====<br />
<br />
* Prerequisite:<br />
* Certification:<br />
* Duration:<br />
* Required for:<br />
<br />
<br /> Description<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
=== References and Resources ===<br />
<br />
*{{:bookmarks_-_resources_edited.pdf|Lynne's Bookmarks 2/23/2016}} Contains a few hundred bookmarked resources Lynne Davis has accumulated over several years. As is - no warranty! <br />
<br />
*[http://www.lapidaryforum.net/group/index.php Lapidary Forum] This is an extremely comprehensive and authoritative site for jewelry makers.<br />
*[http://gemstone.smfforfree4.com/index.php?topic=1010.0;wap2 Buffing and Polishing Guide] from Sharr Choate's book, Chapter 8: ''Creative Gold and Silversmithing''</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Jewelry_and_Metalcraft&diff=12Jewelry and Metalcraft2016-07-19T22:07:25Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div>=== Equipment List ===<br />
<br />
==== Hand Tools ====<br />
* Hammers-assorted<br />
* Pliers-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted needle<br />
* Sanding sticks<br />
* Jeweler's saw (x2)<br />
* Calipers<br />
* Hand shears, tin snips - assorted<br />
* Hole punch (Prat and Whitney) <br />
* Bench blocks<br />
<br />
==== Bench Tools ====<br />
* Flex Shaft w/assorted bits<br />
* Dremel w/drill press stand<br />
* Bench pins<br />
* Small vice/bench block (x2)<br />
* Large vice<br />
* Large anvil<br />
* Belt sander<br />
* Bench grinder/wire wheel<br />
* Dapping block and punches<br />
<br />
==== Soldering station ====<br />
* Butane torch<br />
* Oxygen/Acetylene torch<br />
* MAPP gas torch<br />
* Pickle pot, chemical<br />
* Tongs, tweezers<br />
* Rinse pot<br />
* Cleaning supplies<br />
<br />
==== Patina setup ====<br />
* Glass mixing jars and dishes<br />
* Brushes/applicators<br />
* Chemicals<br />
* Steel wool<br />
<br />
==== Electro-etch setup ====<br />
* DC Power supply<br />
* "D" battery holders<br />
* Battery clips<br />
* Etching vessels<br />
* Resist materials<br />
* Chemicals<br />
<br />
==== Firing Setup ====<br />
* Kiln (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Programmable controller<br />
<br />
==== Enameling Setup (On Loan to TinkerMill) ====<br />
* Sifting screens<br />
* Enamel powders<br />
* Enamel holding agent (e.g. Kleerfire)<br />
* Kiln trivets, wire screen<br />
<br />
==== Casting ====<br />
* Centrifugal rig (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Sand casting kit with casting frame, crucible, release agent, pre-mixed casting sand, tongs<br />
<br />
==== Lapidary (On Loan to TinkerMill) ====<br />
* Trim saw, cab forming wheels (Lortone LU6X Combination Unit) refurbished<br />
<br />
==== Lathe (On Loan to TinkerMill) ====<br />
<br />
==== Hydraulic Press ====<br />
* (to be converted from battery casing press to custom forming tool)<br />
<br />
==== Rolling Mill ====<br />
* Small Pepe<br />
* Part of 3-in-One<br />
<br />
==== Shear ====<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
<br />
==== Bending brake ====<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
* Stand-alone brake (larger than 3-in-1)<br />
<br />
=== References and Resources ===<br />
<br />
*{{:bookmarks_-_resources_edited.pdf|Lynne's Bookmarks 2/23/2016}} Contains a few hundred bookmarked resources Lynne Davis has accumulated over several years. As is - no warranty! <br />
<br />
*[http://www.lapidaryforum.net/group/index.php Lapidary Forum] This is an extremely comprehensive and authoritative site for jewelry makers.<br />
*[http://gemstone.smfforfree4.com/index.php?topic=1010.0;wap2 Buffing and Polishing Guide] from Sharr Choate's book, Chapter 8: ''Creative Gold and Silversmithing''</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Jewelry_and_Metalcraft&diff=11Jewelry and Metalcraft2016-07-19T21:59:58Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div>=== Equipment List ===<br />
<br />
===== Hand Tools =====<br />
* Hammers-assorted<br />
* Pliers-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted needle<br />
* Sanding sticks<br />
* Jeweler's saw (x2)<br />
* Calipers<br />
* Hand shears, tin snips - assorted<br />
* Hole punch (Prat and Whitney) <br />
* Bench blocks<br />
<br />
===== Bench Tools =====<br />
* Flex Shaft w/assorted bits<br />
* Dremel w/drill press stand<br />
* Bench pins<br />
* Small vice/bench block (x2)<br />
* Large vice<br />
* Large anvil<br />
* Belt sander<br />
* Bench grinder/wire wheel<br />
* Dapping block and punches<br />
<br />
===== Soldering station =====<br />
* Butane torch<br />
* Oxygen/Acetylene torch<br />
* MAPP gas torch<br />
* Pickle pot, chemical<br />
* Tongs, tweezers<br />
* Rinse pot<br />
* Cleaning supplies<br />
<br />
===== Patina setup =====<br />
* Glass mixing jars and dishes<br />
* Brushes/applicators<br />
* Chemicals<br />
* Steel wool<br />
<br />
===== Electro-etch setup =====<br />
* DC Power supply<br />
* "D" battery holders<br />
* Battery clips<br />
* Etching vessels<br />
* Resist materials<br />
* Chemicals<br />
<br />
===== Firing Setup =====<br />
* Kiln (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Programmable controller<br />
<br />
===== Enameling Setup (On Loan to TinkerMill) ======== <br />
* Sifting screens<br />
* Enamel powders<br />
* Enamel holding agent (e.g. Kleerfire)<br />
* Kiln trivets, wire screen<br />
<br />
===== Casting ======== <br />
* Centrifugal rig (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Sand casting kit with casting frame, crucible, release agent, pre-mixed casting sand, tongs<br />
<br />
===== Lapidary (On Loan to TinkerMill) ======== <br />
* Trim saw, cab forming wheels (Lortone LU6X Combination Unit) refurbished<br />
<br />
===== Lathe (On Loan to TinkerMill) ======== <br />
<br />
===== Hydraulic Press =====<br />
* (to be converted from battery casing press to custom forming tool)<br />
<br />
===== Rolling Mill =====<br />
* Small Pepe<br />
* Part of 3-in-One<br />
<br />
===== Shear =====<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
<br />
===== Bending brake =====<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
* Stand-alone brake (larger than 3-in-1)</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Jewelry_and_Metalcraft&diff=10Jewelry and Metalcraft2016-07-19T21:57:49Z<p>Admin: Created page with "===== Equipment List ===== == Hand Tools == * Hammers-assorted * Pliers-assorted * Files-assorted * Files-assorted needle * Sanding sticks * Jeweler's saw (x2) * Calipers * H..."</p>
<hr />
<div>===== Equipment List =====<br />
<br />
== Hand Tools ==<br />
* Hammers-assorted<br />
* Pliers-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted<br />
* Files-assorted needle<br />
* Sanding sticks<br />
* Jeweler's saw (x2)<br />
* Calipers<br />
* Hand shears, tin snips - assorted<br />
* Hole punch (Prat and Whitney) <br />
* Bench blocks<br />
<br />
== Bench Tools ==<br />
* Flex Shaft w/assorted bits<br />
* Dremel w/drill press stand<br />
* Bench pins<br />
* Small vice/bench block (x2)<br />
* Large vice<br />
* Large anvil<br />
* Belt sander<br />
* Bench grinder/wire wheel<br />
* Dapping block and punches<br />
<br />
== Soldering station ==<br />
* Butane torch<br />
* Oxygen/Acetylene torch<br />
* MAPP gas torch<br />
* Pickle pot, chemical<br />
* Tongs, tweezers<br />
* Rinse pot<br />
* Cleaning supplies<br />
<br />
== Patina setup ==<br />
* Glass mixing jars and dishes<br />
* Brushes/applicators<br />
* Chemicals<br />
* Steel wool<br />
<br />
== Electro-etch setup ==<br />
* DC Power supply<br />
* "D" battery holders<br />
* Battery clips<br />
* Etching vessels<br />
* Resist materials<br />
* Chemicals<br />
<br />
== Firing Setup ==<br />
* Kiln (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Programmable controller<br />
<br />
== Enameling Setup (On Loan to TinkerMill) == <br />
* Sifting screens<br />
* Enamel powders<br />
* Enamel holding agent (e.g. Kleerfire)<br />
* Kiln trivets, wire screen<br />
<br />
== Casting == <br />
* Centrifugal rig (On Loan to TinkerMill)<br />
* Sand casting kit with casting frame, crucible, release agent, pre-mixed casting sand, tongs<br />
<br />
== Lapidary (On Loan to TinkerMill) == <br />
* Trim saw, cab forming wheels (Lortone LU6X Combination Unit) refurbished<br />
<br />
== Lathe (On Loan to TinkerMill) == <br />
<br />
== Hydraulic Press ==<br />
* (to be converted from battery casing press to custom forming tool)<br />
<br />
== Rolling Mill ==<br />
* Small Pepe<br />
* Part of 3-in-One<br />
<br />
== Shear ==<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
<br />
== Bending brake ==<br />
* Part of 3-in-1<br />
* Stand-alone brake (larger than 3-in-1)</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Lampwork&diff=9Lampwork2016-07-19T21:49:43Z<p>Admin: Created page with "===== Tools ===== * '''Bench Burner''' - A torch that is fixed to the bench which provides a stationary flame. * '''Didymium Safety Glasses''' - Glasses that provide a filter..."</p>
<hr />
<div>===== Tools =====<br />
* '''Bench Burner''' - A torch that is fixed to the bench which provides a stationary flame.<br />
* '''Didymium Safety Glasses''' - Glasses that provide a filter which selectively blocks the yellowish light at 589 nm emitted by the hot sodium in the glass, without having a detrimental effect on general vision, unlike dark welder's glasses. The strong infrared light emitted by the super-heated forge gases and insulation lining the forge walls is also blocked thereby saving the lampworker's eyes from serious cumulative damage.<br />
* '''Hand Torch''' - The hand torch allows for more maneuverability of the flame, commonly used on glassworking lathes where there is reduced maneuverability of the piece<br />
* '''Kiln''' - the kiln is used to garage and anneal the glass, protecting the piece from thermal shock and relieving thermal stress.<br />
* '''Marver''' - flat surfaces used to roll glass upon in order to shape, smooth or consolidate applied decoration, typically made of graphite or steel.<br />
* '''Paddle''' - A graphite or metal marver attached to a handle<br />
* '''Reamer''' - A piece of graphite or brass on a handle used to enlarge holes.<br />
* '''Blowhose/Swivel Assembly''' - A hose, usually latex, is connected to the blowpipe via a hollow swivel, allowing the lampworker to blow into hollow glass forms while rotating them.<br />
* '''Tungsten Pick''' - The extreme temperature resistance of tungsten makes it ideal for raking(dragging glass around on the surface), or to bore a hole through the glass.<br />
* '''Shears''' - Steel shears are used to cut the hot glass.<br />
* '''Hot Fingers''' - Metal tool found in various configurations which allows the hot glass to be securely held and rotated, commonly used for finishing pieces after they have been removed from the blowpipe or pontil.<br />
* '''Pontil (Punty)''' - A small diameter glass rod used to hold a piece while working on it. The end of the punty is heated, melted, and then secured to the work piece. Later, the cold joint connecting the work piece and the punty can be broken with a light tap on a solid surface. It often leaves an irregular or ring-shaped scar on the base when removed called the "pontil mark". <br />
<br />
===== Terms =====<br />
* '''Flame Cutting''' - A technique for separating a section of glass into two pieces. The area to be separated is held in the flame until until it is a bright honey color. The sections are then pulled apart while remaining in the flame, resulting in a very thin strand of glass between the two that is quickly cut and balled up by the flame. <br />
<br />
===== Operating the Bench Burner =====<br />
====== Start Up ======<br />
# Ensure that the oxygen tank regulator valve is loose.<br />
# Ensure that the oxygen valve on the bench burner (silver knob) is closed.<br />
# Turn on the oxygen tank.<br />
# Adjust the oxygen pressure to 40 psi by turning the regulator valve clockwise. <br />
# Ensure that the propane valve on the bench burner (red knob) is closed.<br />
# Turn on the propane tank.<br />
# Check that the propane tank regulator is set to 5 psi, adjust if necessary. <br />
# Using a hand held lighter, hold a flame in front of the torch nozzle.<br />
# Slowly turn the bench burner's propane valve (red knob), this will start the flow of propane gas from the end of the torch which the lighter will ignite.<br />
# Slowly turn on the bench burner's oxygen valve and adjust the flame until the cones (smaller, blue flames within the base of the larger flame) are sharp and defined.<br />
<br />
====== Shut Down ======<br />
# Turn off the oxygen tank valve.<br />
# Bleed the oxygen from the torch hose by loosing the silver knob on the torch's base. Wait a few seconds for the gas the escape.<br />
# Close the torch's silver oxygen valve (take care to not over tighten!)<br />
# Turn the oxygen regulator valve counter clockwise until it is loose.<br />
# Turn off the propane tank valve (do not adjust the regulator.) <br />
<br />
===== Material Resources =====<br />
* Glass Craft, 411 Violet Street Golden, CO www.glasscraftinc.com<br />
* D&L Art Glass Supply, 1440 W. 52nd Ave. Denver, CO www.dlartglass.com</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=7Main Page2016-07-19T21:42:53Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div><strong>Welcome to the TinkerMill Wiki</strong><br />
<br />
;[[Rapid_Prototyping|Rapid Prototyping]]<br />
;[[Glassworks]]<br />
;[[Jewelry_and_Metalcraft|Jewelry and Metal Craft]]<br />
;[[Robotics]]<br />
;[[Woodworking]]<br />
;[[Textiles]]<br />
;[[Electronics]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Getting started ==<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]<br />
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Laser_Cutter&diff=6Laser Cutter2016-07-19T20:22:29Z<p>Admin: Created page with "====== Using the 80W Rabbit Laser Cutter ====== '''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W<br /> '''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm) <br /> ===== Parts..."</p>
<hr />
<div>====== Using the 80W Rabbit Laser Cutter ======<br />
'''Laser Model:''' Rabbit Laser QX-80-1290 80W<br /><br />
'''Working area:''' 47.2 x 35.4 inches (1200 x 900 mm)<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Parts of the Laser =====<br />
'''X/Y carriage''' - Moves the laser head along the X and Y planes (left to right, toward and away.)<br /><br />
'''Honeycomb table''' - disperses any reflected laser energy as well as positioning the engraving material within the proper distance from the laser head.<br /><br />
'''Z axis Bed of Laser''' - Z axis Bed of Laser - The bed of the laser moves up and down to focus the laser. It can be lowered 10 inches under the laser focal lens.<br /><br />
'''Laser Tube Water Jacket Chiller''' - A pump moves chilled, distilled water through a glass tube around the laser, cooling it.<br /><br />
'''Compressed Air in''' - Air Assist is compressed air that blows onto the cutting point of the laser. It blows away smoke that would otherwise deposit on the mirrors<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Machine Safety =====<br />
'''Only use materials on the approved list! If your material is not on the list you must get approved before attempting to cut or engrave it!'''<br />
<br />
'''Do not exceed the recommended power settings more than 10 units. If the laser is not cutting at those setting it needs maintenance, please let someone know!'''<br />
<br />
'''Do not set the power setting above 85%. This extends the life of the laser tube considerably.'''<br />
<br />
Keep the area around the machine clean and free of unnecessary clutter, combustible materials, explosives, or volatile solvents such as acetone, alcohol, or gasoline.<br />
<br />
The smoke generated from cutting materials deposit particles of residue on the lenses and mirrors of the laser. For the laser to work at its full potential proper maintenance is necessary. This is done by trained Tinkermill members so you don’t have to.<br />
<br />
The machine is regularly check and maintained but if you notice a loss in power or performance you can help by alerting a qualified Tinkermill member. If the laser does not seem to be cutting at its full potential please alert a member who has been trained in laser maintenance. If none are available please submit an email to '''info@tinkermill.com''' with a description of what you observed.<br />
Do not attempt to clean the optics or service the machine without training!<br />
<br />
Keep a properly maintained and inspected fire extinguisher on hand.<br />
<br />
Keep all the lids closed while the machine is in use, including those on the sides of the machine.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Fire Safety =====<br />
Laser cutting and engraving systems represent a significant fire hazard. The materials on the approved list most likely to flare up are paper based products such as cardboard. The most common cause of flare-ups is cutting too slowly.<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Material Selection =====<br />
Our laser cutter is capable of cutting and engraving a wide range of materials. To help ensure that the laser stays in a working condition we ask that you only using materials on the approved material list. If you would like to use a material not found on the list (and it isn't on the do-not-cut list) please contact a shop captain and be prepared to provide a sample of your material.<br />
<br />
You can help by testing your material according to the “IDENTIFICATION OF POLYMERS” booklet accompanying the laser cutter:<br />
http://www.chymist.com/Polymer%20Identification.pdf<br />
http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/<br />
<br />
'''Do not cut any material that contains chloride as it is corrosive to both the machine and your body! These include PVC and vinyl.'''<br />
<br />
'''Approved Materials'''<br /><br />
Acrylic Plastic<br /><br />
Plexiglass (PMMA)<br /><br />
Delrin Plastic<br /><br />
Kapton High Temperature Tape<br /><br />
PETG Plastic<br /><br />
Styrene Plastic<br /><br />
Styrene Foam (melts very quickly)<br /><br />
Depron Foam<br /><br />
EPM Foam (Ethylene propylene rubber)<br /><br />
Cloths (leather, suede, felt, hemp, cotton)<br /><br />
Magnetic sheets<br /><br />
Paper, Cardboard, Cardstock<br /><br />
Rubbers (those that are free of chlorine)<br /><br />
Woods (balsa, birch, poplar, red oak, cherry, holly, etc.)<br /><br />
Cork<br />
Coroplast<br />
Carbon Fiber Mats/Weave '''that has not had the epoxy applied!'''<br /><br />
Baltic Birch Plywood<br /><br />
Back of Mirrors (engrave only)<br /><br />
Anodized Aluminum (engrave only)<br /><br />
Powder Coated Metal (engrave only)<br /><br />
Glass (engrave only)<br /><br />
Ceramic Tile (engrave only)<br /><br />
Stone, Marble, Granite (engrave only)<br /><br />
<br />
'''DO NOT CUT/ENGRAVE'''<br /><br />
Polycarbonate (fire hazard)<br /><br />
Lexan (fire hazard)<br /><br />
PVC (chlorine)<br /><br />
Cintra (chlorine)<br /><br />
Vinyl (chlorine)<br /><br />
ABS Plastic (fire Hazard, difficult to clean up)<br /><br />
Pleather / Faux Leather (chlorine)<br /><br />
Epoxy Coated Fiberglass / Composites (noxious fumes from epoxy)<br /><br />
Printed Circuit Boards (noxious fumes)<br /><br />
Epoxy Coated Carbon Fiber (noxious fumes)<br /><br />
HPDE / Milk Bottle Plastic (fire hazard)<br /><br />
Any Material Containing Chlorine<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Preparing Vector Files for Cutting and Engraving =====<br />
* The laser cutter software uses DXF (Drawing Exchange Format) as its vector format <br />
* DXF files should be saved in R14 version<br />
* The laser cutter software expects metric measurements. Export at an Artwork Scale of 1 unit = 1mm<br />
* Adobe Illustrator and Inkscape can convert vector file types to the DXF<br />
* DXFs created with CAD software, such as Autocad, often has double lines or other undesirable artifacts from the conversion process. You should always open these files in vector drawing software and clean up any of these erroneous paths<br />
* Make note of your documents size (in millimeters) as this will be useful later if resizing is needed in the LaserCut software<br />
* Closed paths that are put on an Engrave layer in the RabbitLaser software will appear as solid areas of engraving.<br />
<br />
====== With Adobe Illustrator ======<br />
* Change the document's units to metric (Edit > Preferences > Units > General)<br />
* All paths should have zero fill. Filled shapes will produce a "Hatch" error in the RabbitLaser software.<br />
<br />
====== With Inkscape ======<br />
Both Inkscape 0.48 and 0.91 should be installed on the workstation. A few tips:<br />
* Inkscape 0.91 has a bug that prevents it from saving circles and ellipses to .dxf format properly. You may need to use another tool (such as 0.48), or recreate them in the LaserCut software. This is expected to be fixed in version 0.92. See here: https://bugs.launchpad.net/inkscape/+bug/1489320<br />
* If you are having trouble with exporting a closed shape, check to ensure that there is no "fill". Some users have reported this causing them issues in the past.<br />
* Combining all vectors into a single layer before export may yield better results.<br />
===== Preparing Raster Images for Engraving =====<br />
The PhotoGrav software can be used to convert raster images into a format compatable with the RabbitLaser software. This is installed on the computer and can be found locked to the task bar (the sun icon.)<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br />
===== Operating the Laser =====<br />
# Turn the laser on with the key. Check to ensure that the Chiller, Air Assist Pump, and Ventilation Fan have all turned on.<br />
# Start the LaserCut software.<br />
# Click “File>Import” to navigate to and select your file.<br />
# Select paths and assign colors to those that will have separate power and speed settings.<br />
# Set the power and speed settings for each layer (color). Please reference the advice power and speed settings sheet that is near the computer.<br />
# Layers will be cut/engraved in order from top to bottom. They can be arranged by pressing the "Up" and "Down" buttons underneath the Layers pallet<br />
# Check the size of your artwork by selecting everything and pressing Ctrl+G. This will show you the selections size (in millimeters) and allows for its adjustment.<br />
# Although not required, it is wise to save the file at this point to the computer or your thumbdrive. This will save the file in a .MOL format that will retain your layers as well as speed and power settings.<br />
# Ensure that the origin, or starting point, of your artwork is set to the upper left corner by clicking on "Laser" > "Set laser origin" and selecting "LEFT-TOP."<br />
## {{:laser_origin_1.png?200|}}<br />
## {{:laser_origin_2.png?200|}}<br />
# The screen on the laser cutter should now display the name of your file<br />
# Place your material onto the laser cutter bed.<br />
# Use the laser cutter’s up/down, left/right keys to move the head of the laser over your material. If the laser head doesn’t move when you press the buttons try hitting the “ESC” and try again. <br />
# Press the “TEST” button. The laser head will travel in a rectangular pattern that represents the boundaries of your file. It is important that you know your origin point before testing or the head of the laser may ignore its limit switches and slam into the side of the machine.<br />
# Press the “Z-0” button to automatically focus the laser. The bed will rise until a limit switch on the laser head is activated, it will then move back down to the proper focal distance. <br />
# You are ready to cut/engrave! Press the “START” key to start the laser.<br />
# Remove your material as well as any left over pieces. Don’t worry about scrap that falls through the the honeycomb, that gets cleaned out during maintenance. Do, however, remove any scrap that sits on or above the honeycomb that could obstruct material placed into the machine later. The vacuum cleaner next to the laser cutter works great for sucking up loose bits!<br />
<br />
===== Cleaning and Maintenance =====<br />
Please refer to http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/Manuals/LaserMaintenanceSchedule.pdf for maintenance instructions.<br /><br />
Maintenance logs for the laser can be found here http://wiki.tinkermill.org/doku.php?id=laser_cutter_maintenance<br />
<br />
Due to the delicate nature of the laser cutter, maintenance is to only be performed by trained members. Please do not attempt to clean or repair the machine without this one-on-one training. If you feel that the laser needs cleaning or other maintenance please send a message to info@tinkermill.org<br />
<br />
==== Lens Damage Examples ====<br />
{{:lens_damage_examples.png?300|}}<br />
<br />
==== Focal Length Sensor Plunger ====<br />
It is necessary to periodically clean the tip of the focal length sensor plunger. Because this plunger is used to set the focal distance of the laser, a build up of debris will cause this distance to be off enough to affect the quality of cuts and etchings.<br />
{{:focal_length_sensor_-_before_after.png?300|}}<br />
==== Material and Design Resources ====<br />
Rabbit Laser Manuals and Tutorials<br /><br />
www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html<br />
<br />
Example Projects:<br />
epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club.htm<br /><br />
www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html<br />
<br />
Living (or Lattice) Hinges<br /><br />
www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/category/def-proc/lattice-hinges/<br />
www.epiloglaser.com/resources/sample-club/living-hinge-laser-cutting.htm<br />
<br />
Inkscape - Free Vector Drawing Software<br /><br />
www.inkscape.org/en/<br />
<br />
Free Vector Images<br /><br />
www.all-silhouettes.com/<br />
<br />
Tabbed Box Generator<br /><br />
www.makercase.com/<br />
<br />
Gear Template Generator<br /><br />
www.woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html<br />
<br />
Plastics - Colorado Plastics 4th Friday Scrap Sale<br /><br />
2015 500 S. Arthur Ave.<br /><br />
Louisville, CO, 80027<br /><br />
1-800-398-9271 or 303-443-9271<br /><br />
www.coloradoplastics.com/retail/fourth-friday-half-price-remnant-sale/<br />
<br />
Birch Plywood - Stan's Hardwood<br /><br />
617 1st Ave. Longmont, Colorado 80501<br /><br />
(303) 772-2418<br /><br />
Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 9-3, Closed: Sun & Mon<br /><br />
http://www.longmonthardwood.com/<br />
<br />
Rubber Stamp Material - Laser Safe<br /><br />
www.rubberstampmaterials.com/laserengravablerubberandpolymer.aspx</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Rapid_Prototyping&diff=5Rapid Prototyping2016-07-19T20:10:21Z<p>Admin: </p>
<hr />
<div>TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of rapid prototyping capabilities, including:<br />
*[[3D_Printer|3D Printers]]<br />
*[[Laser_Cutter|Laser Cutter]]<br />
*[[ShopBot]]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Rapid_Prototyping&diff=4Rapid Prototyping2016-07-19T20:07:44Z<p>Admin: Created page with "TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of Rapid Prototyping equipment including 3D_Printers Laser Cutter ShopBot"</p>
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<div>TinkerMill currently has a wide variety of Rapid Prototyping equipment including<br />
[[3D_Printers]]<br />
[[Laser Cutter]]<br />
[[ShopBot]]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=3Main Page2016-07-19T20:05:15Z<p>Admin: </p>
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<div><strong>Welcome to the TinkerMill Wiki</strong><br />
<br />
Consult the [//meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software.<br />
<br />
== Getting started ==<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]<br />
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/mailman/listinfo/mediawiki-announce MediaWiki release mailing list]<br />
* [//www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]</div>Adminhttps://wiki.tinkermill.org/index.php?title=File:TinkerMill_Logo_-_130_x_65.730_on_150_x_150_Background.png&diff=2File:TinkerMill Logo - 130 x 65.730 on 150 x 150 Background.png2016-07-18T17:30:49Z<p>Admin: </p>
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<div></div>Admin